red87
Adventurer
Perfect. I was debating keeping my stock shocks with the OME springs too. Glad you're going to guinea pig it for me :bike_rider:
1995 Montero SR Build
- Thread starter LaOutbackTrail
- Start date
Perfect. I was debating keeping my stock shocks with the OME springs too. Glad you're going to guinea pig it for me :bike_rider:
Silverwulf
Adventurer
FWIW- : I talked with Ian at camel 4x4 about using the ironman springs with my existing shocks. He discouraged it by pointing out that the their shocks were longer and stiffer to accommodate the increased spring rate and travel length. If you use the stock length spring you won't get the benefit of increased travel.
FWIW- : I talked with Ian at camel 4x4 about using the ironman springs with my existing shocks. He discouraged it by pointing out that the their shocks were longer and stiffer to accommodate the increased spring rate and travel length. If you use the stock length spring you won't get the benefit of increased travel.
Not much flex on a dirt road... usually. But, it'll be a shame to lose the adjustable suspension.
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off-roader
Expedition Leader
FWIW- : I talked with Ian at camel 4x4 about using the ironman springs with my existing shocks. He discouraged it by pointing out that the their shocks were longer and stiffer to accommodate the increased spring rate and travel length. If you use the stock length spring you won't get the benefit of increased travel.
How much longer are the ironman shocks? I'll be installing 2" spacers for the rear coils and when the OE adjustables die, I'll be contemplating longer rear shocks. Will also be checking which KYB's will work that are longer. Their support is excellent for helping with cross reference stuff like this and their shocks are relatively inexpensive, great riding quality units.
It's too bad the rancho RS9000's don't seem to be valved right for the Monty so the end up riding poorly... At least that's what everyone who's tried them have said.
Silverwulf
Adventurer
Ahhh, I forgot you had those...good point.
I had thought about checking about the length for some different kyb's.
I like my monomax, but the front shocks are a bit too stiff for the stock t-bars. Would be great for stiffer bars, but would want longer.
IIRC the ironman shocks are 40mm longer.
If you install a rear spring spacer, you effectively reduct your up-travel by what ever height the spacer is. Also the piston of the shock will be working more toward the end of the shock, more prone to topping out. You may also experience coil bind before the suspension bottoms out.
I had considered this path. You may recall why I replaced my shocks in the first place, the Rt RR was actually broken and missing the piston rod. I bought the kybs as a quick inexpensive fix with plans to upgrade later. Well that day may come sooner rather than later as I have noticed the spring in the rt rr is sagging. This is most likely due to the PO driving it w/o a shock and has since began to sag.
Instead of screwing around with trying to match parts and the like, I will just pop for the complete set that has been engineered as a unit. Besides $700-800 isn't that bad considering I paid $2400 to lower my BMW E38 with Bilstein sport shocks, H&R stage II springs and power flex thrust rod bushings.
I have also put Ohlins on my Triumph Daytona 955i. That one rear shock with adj compression/ rebound, remote pre load adjuster and adj height was $1k... for 1 shock!
I guess I have become a suspension snob and am rather picky as I have "the good stuff" on my other vehicles. So, that being said the $180 ish I spent on the kyb's was a great value, but if I'm needing springs, I'm going to go with the complete system.
Sorry so long winded...
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off-roader
Expedition Leader
I know what you mean about aftermarket coilover prices since i have an Audi B5 S4.
Realistically you can probably buy aftermarket springs for as little as a few hundred $ (valley spring works) & shocks for a bit over a hundred or so (kyb) although admittedly I've only run them on my gen I.
As for the spring bottoming out too soon due to spacers, it's may be better for me since I'm already running 35's and will ultimately be moving up to 37's so the extra clearance may be good. :Wow1:.
Realistically you can probably buy aftermarket springs for as little as a few hundred $ (valley spring works) & shocks for a bit over a hundred or so (kyb) although admittedly I've only run them on my gen I.
As for the spring bottoming out too soon due to spacers, it's may be better for me since I'm already running 35's and will ultimately be moving up to 37's so the extra clearance may be good. :Wow1:.
I've been meaning to ask about these KYB adjustable shocks. I've tried to search for the answer, but can't find it.
How exactly are these adjustable? Are the three positions basically three levels of stiffness, somewhat like a lot of newer German cars' suspensions (I'm thinking Porsche PSM as an example)?
And if so, what parameters exactly are being adjusted? Compression only? Rebound only? Comp/rebound combined (a la Bilstein PSS9s)? And by how much?
Finally, how are the positions labeled on the center console? I've never seen a close-up photo of the rocker switch, and maybe seeing it would render this a self-answering question.
Thanks!
How exactly are these adjustable? Are the three positions basically three levels of stiffness, somewhat like a lot of newer German cars' suspensions (I'm thinking Porsche PSM as an example)?
And if so, what parameters exactly are being adjusted? Compression only? Rebound only? Comp/rebound combined (a la Bilstein PSS9s)? And by how much?
Finally, how are the positions labeled on the center console? I've never seen a close-up photo of the rocker switch, and maybe seeing it would render this a self-answering question.
Thanks!
red87
Adventurer
I can't answer all your questions but I can answer some.
The shocks have three different levels of stiffness: soft, medium and hard. There is a noticeable difference between each setting. The shocks have what looks like a stepper motor on the top and I'm assuming they turn an adjuster. The switch is labeled only for soft and hard but the instrument cluster has indicator lights that show which position you are in. The switch only has those two labels because the medium position has a picture of shock absorbers on it, not a "m" for medium.
I'm not sure if the adjusters control compression, rebound or both but I'm guessing its both. The truck is a floaty pig in soft (and oh so comfy on the freeway) and the body motions are very controlled in cross-axle situations with it in hard. It both stays off the bumpstops more (more compression damping) and is far more composed when crawling over bigger rocks/ledges (more rebound damping). Hopefully someone with more suspension knowledge will come along and tell me how smart/dumb I am :sombrero:
You're a dumb smart guy!
JK. You described what I have witnessed and felt in my monty.
JK. You described what I have witnessed and felt in my monty.
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On a entirely different note.... I was returning my neighbors utility trailer yesterday and parked the truck (motor running) on a downhill slope, front facing down. I unhooked the trailer and then proceeded down the hill. I got to the bottom and thought about my parking brake. I knew it functioned, but didn't know how well it would hold the truck on a steep hill. So, I decided to back up the hill to test the brakes on the slope. The good news is that the parking brake works fine! The bad news is that I clouded the yard with greyish/white smoke....... I knew it smoked a little bit, but that was plum ridiculous.
Well that's a lot more than I knew before so I thank you for that!
I'll have to re-read this thread and others. The adjustability is interesting to me. I don't have a vehicle yet of course, and I'm assuming that whatever I get I'll probably put a new suspension in. Question is, replace the adjustables with new KYBs (and what springs?) or go the OME route? I don't need huge tires; I can probably live quite happily with 31s or 32s. The less I have to do with the truck as a whole, the better. That's why I'm not settling for anything less than an SR. I want the rear locker and big diff; that solves a major normally-aftermarket problem right off the bat.
Man... honestly, the 33x12.50s fit nicely. They look right on the truck, especially on the stock wheels. They fit nicely into the wheel wells.
Its also important to note that I have had no rubbing issues.
I am going to put a lift on the truck (springs rear and cranking the torsion) for the cosmetic appearance and load capacity. I will be carrying a ~360lb dual sport or an ~230lb enduro motorcycle on the back, so I opted for the heavy heavies. I'll also install a RTT eventually, likely maggiolina to avoid the wind drag of the more common styles.
Seriously? 33s on a stock Montero? That's very impressive! My truck's got 33s, and those are NOT small tires. I have trouble imagining those actually fitting, but if that's the case, then that's one more reason why these vehicles are the bargain of the...decade? Locker, adjustable suspension and fits 33s with no mods?
WIN!:wings::sombrero::ylsmoke::Wow1:
And no rubbing issues at all? Even tucked in, lock to lock?
I really need to find one soon. Fingers crossed.
Yep.
Check a couple pages back. pics with the truck and 33 12.50s.
No rubbing, offroad, lock to lock, no rubbing.
Gearing? No worries, still plenty of juice... and I'm pretty power hungry.