canter tourer
Adventurer
Given your knowledge of these trucks, that makes the decision easy, I'll find a replacement condenser and fix it that way, the last thing I need is grumpy passengers
1996 FG 639 dual cab tidy up
- Thread starter canter tourer
- Start date
Given your knowledge of these trucks, that makes the decision easy, I'll find a replacement condenser and fix it that way, the last thing I need is grumpy passengers
canter tourer
Adventurer
No worries Jim, paint is something I'll need to think about in the future as I don't wanna drive around with the reflective stickers on the ambo box for too long and plain white is a bit boring.
Dave
canter tourer
Adventurer
Not a lot done today, just disconnected the air-con lines from the condenser and it really is stuffed. Spent some time googling to find a replacement and I may have found something suitable, now to see if I can get it for the right price as retail is a killer.
Also disconnected the lines to the evaporator so the cab can tilt all the way. Due to the way it's installed it's the only way to do it which means once I'm done it's unlikely to get tilted in a hurry as it means disconnecting the lines each time. I will have a look and see if there's another way of running the lines as I'd still like it to be relatively easy to tilt it when I feel the need.
Hopefully tomorrow I get time to go all the way and go full tilt:victory:.
Aussie Iron
Explorer
Doing a bit on it every day will get it done. Good work keep at it.
Dan.
Dan.
canter tourer
Adventurer
Thanks Dan, just slowly chipping away will get there eventually.
Got it tilted this morning but still need to rig up a better system of doing this as the current effort is a bit dodgy. Need to knock up a stay to support the cab when it's up and a better method of attaching the chain as I am not working under it as it currently sits, that'd be a great way to die, just tilting to have a gander at this point.
So I probably should have left well enough alone, but stick my screwdriver into what turned out to be a bogged up mess and then once you are committed there's no turning back, so out with the tools and cut off the base of the rear wall, which exposed this mess, so more cutting will be needed then start repairing. It looks like the cause is poor sealing along the internal rear wall of the cab, there'll be plenty of sealer thrown around before this is finished.
Also found some other small areas of rust and some shonky fibreglass repairs which have caused more trouble than they fixed, so much for the previous owner telling me no rust, ah well, when I'm done there won't be any.
That's it for today, time to help a mate 'warm' his new house:costumed-smiley-007
Dave
canter tourer
Adventurer
According to my wife, I must have got lost in the shed today as I disappeared for hours working on the truck. Lucky she is an understanding keeper
Signed up for a photobucket account as I was having issues loading pictures onto the sites system, hope this works ok.
Started patching up some of the rust areas, very time consuming but slowly getting there.
For those that are interested, I'm not sure what the setup is on the single cab, but on the dual cab there is actually a fair amount of access to the engine once the drivers seat is removed and the access panel that's underneath it is removed. When this is removed and the panel off the back of the hump is taken off there is great access to everything, which is easier than the tilting process and by the looks it would be easy enough to fit a turbo with this panel off, something for the future. Also found me some more rust under the drivers seat, so it was worth pulling apart, but one more repair needed.
Dave
Signed up for a photobucket account as I was having issues loading pictures onto the sites system, hope this works ok.
Started patching up some of the rust areas, very time consuming but slowly getting there.
For those that are interested, I'm not sure what the setup is on the single cab, but on the dual cab there is actually a fair amount of access to the engine once the drivers seat is removed and the access panel that's underneath it is removed. When this is removed and the panel off the back of the hump is taken off there is great access to everything, which is easier than the tilting process and by the looks it would be easy enough to fit a turbo with this panel off, something for the future. Also found me some more rust under the drivers seat, so it was worth pulling apart, but one more repair needed.
Dave
canter tourer
Adventurer
Patched up the passenger floor today
and started the repairs to the rear wall, now just waiting on the replacement panel to be knocked up to repair the upper back cab wall
and hoping to get to a wrecker tomorrow to see about cutting out a drivers floor section which would be easier in the long run, due to the position and nature of the rust.
Dave
and started the repairs to the rear wall, now just waiting on the replacement panel to be knocked up to repair the upper back cab wall
and hoping to get to a wrecker tomorrow to see about cutting out a drivers floor section which would be easier in the long run, due to the position and nature of the rust.
Dave
canter tourer
Adventurer
Have you ever taken the rear hump panel off, it gives even more access to everything!
Aussie Iron
Explorer
I've seen a dual cab Canter with a Turbo fitted above the manifold (standard setup) and there wasn't much room and a lot of heat was transferred to the floor (from the exhaust) as there isn't much air circulation up there. Fitting it under slung like I'm doing would take it further from the floor and more into the air flow around the engine. I know of topic but may be of interest for the future.
Dan.
Dan.
canter tourer
Adventurer
Sage advice Dan and definitely a useful consideration for the trucks future, as she's awfully slow in standard form.