Weekender41
Ready to Learn
Okay that's what I figured, thanks for confirmation.
2001 R50 Pathfinder Build-up.
- Thread starter Weekender41
- Start date
Okay that's what I figured, thanks for confirmation.
Allof75
Pathfinder
What lift springs are you using?
I have actually jumped up and down on my bumper, and like you, I'm not the heaviest guy at 155, but it didn't move very much at all. At the most maybe 1" of total up/down movement. They're nice and stiff, and even with about 450lbs in the back (I have big friends haha), it doesn't sag much at all. They work via a higher spring rate than factory, as their actual length is the same, just thicker coils.
As far as shocks, they will affect mainly handling characteristics, but not ride height. IE, stiffer shocks will give you more control in load transfer situations, like lane changes, but will have less bump absorption, and will contribute to a stiff ride. If you decide to sell your current bilsteins, I want to be first on the list
Weekender41
Ready to Learn
What lift springs are you using?
I have actually jumped up and down on my bumper, and like you, I'm not the heaviest guy at 155, but it didn't move very much at all. At the most maybe 1" of total up/down movement. They're nice and stiff, and even with about 450lbs in the back (I have big friends haha), it doesn't sag much at all. They work via a higher spring rate than factory, as their actual length is the same, just thicker coils.
As far as shocks, they will affect mainly handling characteristics, but not ride height. IE, stiffer shocks will give you more control in load transfer situations, like lane changes, but will have less bump absorption, and will contribute to a stiff ride. If you decide to sell your current bilsteins, I want to be first on the list
The AC lift coils. That 1" total movement you are talking about is all I have as well but with the rear bumper that 1/2" of down sag that I have is staying permanent. I stepped on the rear bumper and its not going down any more than where it is at so I am wondering if that is bad? Speaking of lane changes, I am going to have to buy another set of front sway bar brackets as the brackets for mine have disappeared. Haha don't take the front off if you plan to add weight to the rear. Well If I find that the current ride does not improve after making the front bumper, the first thing I will do is look into replacement shocks so Ill keep you in mind!
Allof75
Pathfinder
Well the lack of sway bar brackets may be causing that "nose in the air" feeling hahaha. Regarding the rear sag, I would say that maybe the bumper is just using up the first 1/2" of upward travel, but considering there are still several inches to go, it shouldn't be an issue. If anything, it might make it ride smoother. Considering all the people who have heavy racks, rear storage platforms, fridges and everything else, that bumper probably couldn't weigh much more than a bit of camping gear added to all that stuff. If you're really concerned about load capacity, AirLift makes some airbags which slip into the springs and will prob the rear end up well. They're known to be relatively durable too.
In our rigs, downtravel is limited first by the sway bar, and second by the shocks (at least on my rig), and while in extreme flexing that sway bar may be a minor hindrance (lots of flex already available before then), it's better to be limited by a bar than your shocks' downtravel IMO.
Weekender41
Ready to Learn
Ha im hoping the front swaybar helps! And i went and tried to compress the rear some more by pushing the middle of bumper, its not moving much so I'm actually kind of happy to know more gear wont lower it anymore. The rear swaybar i had was all jacked up so I'm leaving that off. The shocks have a little over 10" of travel and so articulation would be stopped by fender wells or the coils. Fortunately im never really concerned with flexing. Thats not my cup of tea. And yeah i looked up the load rating for ac coils and they are believed to be up around 550lbs. Lets say my rear bumper tire combo is 150lbs and drawer frame is 40(probably close) thats quite a bit left! I also looked into AT drawer systems and some of the tuffy products .... My drawers are less weight!
so yeah this has got me feeling good about it. I do slide my back end out a bunch more on the snow/ice here because the additional weight the far back....
Allof75
Pathfinder
Ha im hoping the front swaybar helps! And i went and tried to compress the rear some more by pushing the middle of bumper, its not moving much so I'm actually kind of happy to know more gear wont lower it anymore. The rear swaybar i had was all jacked up so I'm leaving that off. The shocks have a little over 10" of travel and so articulation would be stopped by fender wells or the coils. Fortunately im never really concerned with flexing. Thats not my cup of tea. And yeah i looked up the load rating for ac coils and they are believed to be up around 550lbs. Lets say my rear bumper tire combo is 150lbs and drawer frame is 40(probably close) thats quite a bit left! I also looked into AT drawer systems and some of the tuffy products .... My drawers are less weight!
Well mainly I was talking about droop being limited haha, but yes, as long as you aren't going too extreme it ought to be good. And that back end issue I believe happens to all VQ R50s, the throttle tuning is rather abrupt, and there isn't much physical size to balance it out. Mine rotates and spins tires like a ******** if I hit it too hard.
Weekender41
Ready to Learn
Well im glad its not just me... haha. I could have sworn I don't have a lead foot but was starting to doubt myself.
Weekender41
Ready to Learn
Shift of Focus
Quick question for a winch..
Salt is used occasionally here but not too much. The winch bumper will be built to allow easy access to the winch so cleaning things out would not be difficult. Weight is not really a concern as the front end could stand to soften up a tad. Is there a big difference with the two types of lines as far as performance? I have heard that the steel can kink but I have never experienced that. One thing I do notice with steel lines is when they are spooled back into the winch they get criss-crossed in a very bad way and have tendencies to catch dirt inside the crevices. Is the synthetic lines prone to the same characteristics? I hear synth lines are also prone to fraying if uncared for. If you are travelling down a dirt road can dirt particulates get caught in the synthetic fibers?
I am just thinking out loud here.
Quick question for a winch..
Salt is used occasionally here but not too much. The winch bumper will be built to allow easy access to the winch so cleaning things out would not be difficult. Weight is not really a concern as the front end could stand to soften up a tad. Is there a big difference with the two types of lines as far as performance? I have heard that the steel can kink but I have never experienced that. One thing I do notice with steel lines is when they are spooled back into the winch they get criss-crossed in a very bad way and have tendencies to catch dirt inside the crevices. Is the synthetic lines prone to the same characteristics? I hear synth lines are also prone to fraying if uncared for. If you are travelling down a dirt road can dirt particulates get caught in the synthetic fibers?
I am just thinking out loud here.
Weekender41
Ready to Learn
Periodic maintenance/preventative maintenance is one thing (an important thing none the less) but would one type be less maintenance than the other? Like i said I've never even seen a synthetic winch line used but there must be a reason everyone is switching. Good shout out on that lesson though. Thats how we get to enjoy our aging vehicles more and more with no need to upgrade!... Probably has nothing to do with new pathfinders looking like minivans haha.
Allof75
Pathfinder
Having not looked into winches much I'm speaking purely on periodic articles I've read. But it seems that the main advantages of synthetic vs steel is that there is less kinetic energy should one snap (of course always have a dampener as well), they weigh less (important), have fewer areas to get gunked up, and I would imagine are a little easier to spool/handle. Otherwise I'm talking out of my a**.
Weekender41
Ready to Learn
Bumper Progress
Just some updates on the project.
Here is a side shot and you can also see my next project. Actually welding an exhaust tip on and not those dang clamps.
Also, there is a gap from the sides to the body as you can see in case it gets pressed on (lets say going down a rock step in Colorado) so it doesn't smash the body.
I will be painting all the areas behind the bumper with Rustoleum undercoating because it holds up forever, is thick (makes it look smooth), and stays dark black.
That little bar you can see is bracing the sides and will also be where the mudflap gets attached (I think)
This is a easy way to see the way to follows to body lines. Kind of deceiving with how it flares out so it looks a lot thicker than it is. The other pics will help
Oh and that nice camera string...awesome. Safety first!
Anyways the sides are folded over on the top to give a better appearance (that's theoretical because right now haha kinda ugly )
That darn string... and also you can see where I need to find a way to cover those plastic boxes and hoses somehow haha
Here you can see how the fold fits snugly in between those two parts.
-
Anyways I like it so far. I was talking about putting a piece to fill the gap from the bumper to the body. But I'm going to hold off on that. Without that it is lighter, and allows air to flow through and not try and pull the sides of the bumper out.
At first those little brace bars were to just attach the mud flaps to and keep the sides from wiggling but they are amazingly stiffening! I can lift the corner of the vehicle with the bumper sides without them moving too high. Granted that was sketchy and I set it down pretty fast but still! Anyways whenever the snow stops I will take the whole thing off, file out one of the holes so the bolt can go in. Chase the threads of another hole so the whole mounting system will be stronger. Then I will go get the entire thing sand blasted. After that I will go back over with a grinder and clean things up. Re-weld anything on a low voltage to make it look better or to fill gaps. Then finish some of the welds I could not get to while its mounted. After that if it is still nice I will paint the area behind the bumper with undercoating and then prime and paint the bumper. I am thinking about the whole thing black or color match it to the flares (that would be sweet!!) Once the paint is dry on the bumper I will add my reflective strips to it and paint the d-rings a blaze orange or another color that sticks out (this is still up in debate). The final touch is some grip-tape along the top of the main bumper like I have on the sliders.
-
Im excited! Any suggestions on paint? I know black is the norm but if I color matched it to the flares and did the front bumper the same way that would look good I think. But then the rims and rack would stick out. Rims can go back to alloy color easy peasy though...
-
Total for the bumper minus final paint ( I already have the primer and undercoating ) ............... $315! Not bad. Also the metal shop I go to for supplies doesn't charge me labor anymore (for like using the brake to make the fold of cutting the pieces! Score!
Just some updates on the project.
Here is a side shot and you can also see my next project. Actually welding an exhaust tip on and not those dang clamps.
Also, there is a gap from the sides to the body as you can see in case it gets pressed on (lets say going down a rock step in Colorado) so it doesn't smash the body.
I will be painting all the areas behind the bumper with Rustoleum undercoating because it holds up forever, is thick (makes it look smooth), and stays dark black.
That little bar you can see is bracing the sides and will also be where the mudflap gets attached (I think)
This is a easy way to see the way to follows to body lines. Kind of deceiving with how it flares out so it looks a lot thicker than it is. The other pics will help
Oh and that nice camera string...awesome. Safety first!
Anyways the sides are folded over on the top to give a better appearance (that's theoretical because right now haha kinda ugly )
That darn string... and also you can see where I need to find a way to cover those plastic boxes and hoses somehow haha
Here you can see how the fold fits snugly in between those two parts.
-
Anyways I like it so far. I was talking about putting a piece to fill the gap from the bumper to the body. But I'm going to hold off on that. Without that it is lighter, and allows air to flow through and not try and pull the sides of the bumper out.
At first those little brace bars were to just attach the mud flaps to and keep the sides from wiggling but they are amazingly stiffening! I can lift the corner of the vehicle with the bumper sides without them moving too high. Granted that was sketchy and I set it down pretty fast but still! Anyways whenever the snow stops I will take the whole thing off, file out one of the holes so the bolt can go in. Chase the threads of another hole so the whole mounting system will be stronger. Then I will go get the entire thing sand blasted. After that I will go back over with a grinder and clean things up. Re-weld anything on a low voltage to make it look better or to fill gaps. Then finish some of the welds I could not get to while its mounted. After that if it is still nice I will paint the area behind the bumper with undercoating and then prime and paint the bumper. I am thinking about the whole thing black or color match it to the flares (that would be sweet!!) Once the paint is dry on the bumper I will add my reflective strips to it and paint the d-rings a blaze orange or another color that sticks out (this is still up in debate). The final touch is some grip-tape along the top of the main bumper like I have on the sliders.
-
Im excited! Any suggestions on paint? I know black is the norm but if I color matched it to the flares and did the front bumper the same way that would look good I think. But then the rims and rack would stick out. Rims can go back to alloy color easy peasy though...
-
Total for the bumper minus final paint ( I already have the primer and undercoating ) ............... $315! Not bad. Also the metal shop I go to for supplies doesn't charge me labor anymore (for like using the brake to make the fold of cutting the pieces! Score!
Weekender41
Ready to Learn
Shopping List .... Slow Moving
Here is the list of the things I want to purchase. Not all are vehicle related but I have to go back to work in a couple hours so might as well...
5 General Grabbers AT2 235/85R16 Had 1 mounted and it fit in the rear just fine.. Cant wait for those babies!
ARB Skydome Double Ground Swag Tent
Helios Shower
Front Runner Footwell water storage (once I build trailer Ill just put it in there but I wanted it to fit nicely until that is built)
Front Runner Spare Tire Grill
Trasharoo
Engel Cooler (cant justify a cooler quite yet (big benefit of living in colder climates )
Large Tupperware to place all the cooking stuff in
Install attachment points onto the top of drawer so I can secure big cooking box and whatever else.
Kingsford Kaddy Charcoal Holder
A better sleeping bag 0 to -15 Degree range (The Army owns my current one and im now not liking having to sign out my OCIE just for camping haha oops)
-
Total Approximate running on the high side of everything............ $2400. Most of these the gf and I are going dutch on because she wants them as well so we are going to put them
in order of importance and start purchase then save, repeat.
-
Cheers
Here is the list of the things I want to purchase. Not all are vehicle related but I have to go back to work in a couple hours so might as well...
5 General Grabbers AT2 235/85R16 Had 1 mounted and it fit in the rear just fine.. Cant wait for those babies!
ARB Skydome Double Ground Swag Tent
Helios Shower
Front Runner Footwell water storage (once I build trailer Ill just put it in there but I wanted it to fit nicely until that is built)
Front Runner Spare Tire Grill
Trasharoo
Engel Cooler (cant justify a cooler quite yet (big benefit of living in colder climates
)Large Tupperware to place all the cooking stuff in
Install attachment points onto the top of drawer so I can secure big cooking box and whatever else.
Kingsford Kaddy Charcoal Holder
A better sleeping bag 0 to -15 Degree range (The Army owns my current one and im now not liking having to sign out my OCIE just for camping haha oops)
-
Total Approximate running on the high side of everything............ $2400. Most of these the gf and I are going dutch on because she wants them as well so we are going to put them
in order of importance and start purchase then save, repeat.
-
Cheers
Weekender41
Ready to Learn
Yes indeed! Im excited.