2013 Toyota 4Runner, Equipt Edition Build

[Equipt]

I believe there validity in not running data or communications lines parallel to 12V lines. Like your 2 meter, CB or mobile amp antenna cables. But running electrical lines parallel is not an issue. Vehicle manufacturers build their product with wiring harnesses running lines parallel the entire length of the vehicle. Our additional lines should be no problem at all. Antenna lines can pick up up the interference from the electrical, and introduce itself as feedback on the speaker or a reduction in antenna range.

Good question.

 

[SDDiver5]

I believe there validity in not running data or communications lines parallel to 12V lines. Like your 2 meter, CB or mobile amp antenna cables. But running electrical lines parallel is not an issue. Vehicle manufacturers build their product with wiring harnesses running lines parallel the entire length of the vehicle. Our additional lines should be no problem at all. Antenna lines can pick up up the interference from the electrical, and introduce itself as feedback on the speaker or a reduction in antenna range.

Good question.

Thanks! So basically if it's something that receives a signal it's better to not have the wires laying across/touching other wires for interference reasons? But if they're wires going to some aux lights, compressor, etc it's ok? I ask because I have a CB in my truck that I kind of taught myself how to wire with, even tho I still suck at it... When I installed my speakers, amp and sub in my truck I somehow had some interference somewhere. Never heard it until I had the amp installed and it became magnified. I have tried so many things to get rid of it...the only thing that works is to turn the music up more...which I dont have a problem with at all!

So another noob question. What's the difference between what you have and a Bluesea fuse box? And why did you decide to go the route you did other than knowing how it all works and putting it together yourself?

Thanks, Paul!

Edit: Also, would you recommend doing this without the dual batt?

 

[Equipt]

Solar Panel Connection

Solar Panel Connection

I have had a solar panel as part of my kit for many years. It is a 65W panel, and is pretty close to enough to offset the use of my fridge on extended single spot camps. The controller gives me all sorts of data, and it works great... other than the connection to the battery. I have suffered with a pair of alligator clips as the battery connection for long enough. Time for a undated solution. AT Overland offers a 2 wire mountable connection point called a Solar Plug. It is a weather tight mountable socket on one side and a plug with a decent wire length on the other. I mounted the socket side on the passenger side in a small cover between the hood and the windshield with 4 rivets, just 8" from the aux battery. A simple 2 wire termination straight to the battery terminals. I spliced the plug side into my existing solar controller cable. Done. First photo thanks to AT.



So now my solar connection is fast and safe. No running under the hood to hook up. No crossing wires. Perfect!!!!

Cheers,

 

[Equipt]

Thanks! So basically if it's something that receives a signal it's better to not have the wires laying across/touching other wires for interference reasons? But if they're wires going to some aux lights, compressor, etc it's ok? I ask because I have a CB in my truck that I kind of taught myself how to wire with, even tho I still suck at it... When I installed my speakers, amp and sub in my truck I somehow had some interference somewhere. Never heard it until I had the amp installed and it became magnified. I have tried so many things to get rid of it...the only thing that works is to turn the music up more...which I dont have a problem with at all!

So another noob question. What's the difference between what you have and a Bluesea fuse box? And why did you decide to go the route you did other than knowing how it all works and putting it together yourself?

Thanks, Paul!

Edit: Also, would you recommend doing this without the dual batt?

I am far from a pro at all this. I learn as I go, making rookie mistakes on a half hourly basis, learning more, and trying again. Some items end up wired several times before I am happy with the results. That's how you improve and understand more about your truck. So keep at it. I bet the interference you are hearing has more to do with the CB and amp messing with each other than line voltage. Not 100% sure how all that all plays out. Think of the feedback you see happen when a stage microphone gets too close to an amp. RING! Nasty. I would say crossing the line perpendicular to each other is OK, but parallel is going give you fits. Try it and see.

I have the Blue Sea fuse panel for live power. Excellent product. The big difference in that and the Bussman relay/fuse block is the built in relay panel right next to the fuse panel. A lot of your accessories run on higher amperage that you would traditionally want to run through a switch on your dash. So what the relay does is manage that higher amperage connection. You run a small gauge low amperage wire from your dash switch to the relay in the block, turning on and off the high amperage connection. By having the fuse and relay in the same block, wiring becomes much less complicated, less messy, and much more safe. This is essentially what the sPod management system has put together. Their systems are $345 complete. My route was around $100 total in materials, and a half billion hours labor. It is all a matter of personal choice.

The goal of the secondary battery system is to run all your electrical accessories of a battery that isn't responsible for starting the vehicle. Starting is handy. But if you are adding a lot of goodies to the truck on a single battery, a safe and clean distribution point like the Blue Sea or Bussman makes a lot of sense. They are not much money, and clears all the clutter of solitary wires coming off the battery terminals. Everything should be fused, unless you like burning your truck to the ground in the middle of no where.

Cheers,

 

[Box Rocket]

Great install on the solar stuff Pablo! Looks sweet.

 

[SDDiver5]

Thanks again, Paul. I appreciate all your input. Luckily I have a beater scout I work on so I will try it on there first then move to my DD.

Cant wait to see your AK pics. Should be a blast!

 

[Equipt]

Communications and Navigation

Communications and Navigation

One of the components of the electrical upgrade was the expansion of the communications and navigation systems for the truck. Remote travel, by it's very nature, takes us further away from the the things we take for granted in rural and urban surroundings. So to stay a little more in touch, and have a better clue where I am, I have added a couple things.

Mobile/Data Amplifier

Cell coverage is always a concern for me. Traveling as much as I do, I end up in a lot of places where coverage is minimal at best. To help out with this, I have installed a Wilson Electronics Sleek 4G amplifier. It is designed specifically for my Verizon band range, but models for most all providers are available. It is designed as a pancake amp, which means the phone has to sit in the cradle with the back "pancaked" to the face of the amp. I have a spiffy cup holder mount that is very solid, and also hardwired in the power cable so it doesn't take up one of the USB power sources in the dash. I also upgraded the antenna to to the unit, which greatly improves the data connection. From my experience with the amp so far, it has greatly improved my range of connection. Where I get perhaps one bar on the phone outside the truck, I am getting between 3 and 5 bars with the phone in the cradle. In places with no data at all, I am able to run 3G connection. Results vary dramatically, but I think it a great product and I wish I would have gotten one a long time ago.



Navigation

I bought the 4Runner TE with the navigation option in it. It works pretty well, as long as you are on roads big enough for it to have in it's data base. Often, I am staring at a blank yellow field with an arrow floating in the middle of it. Not cool. The solution I chose was to install HEMA maps software on my iPad2. It is a great software set, allowing you to download a manner of mapping for just about anywhere. The iPad is mounted to the windshield by a Ram Mount suction cup mount with an extension. I have it laying on the dash on a flat rubber mat and the tablet holder is resting on a couple foam dots on the dash to keep in from bouncing around. Though it is front and center in the dash, it doesn't create much more blind spot. Perhaps an inch or 2 higher than the hood at long range. GPS signal is provided by a Dual XGPS150 bluetooth receiver. It sits on the dash and provides current information straight to the iPad. All in all, it is a great solution for my needs.



I feel much more in touch with the outside world now. So far it has worked out great.

Cheers,

 

[Equipt]

Equipt's Alaska Solo Trek

Equipt's Alaska Solo Trek

It's time. I have been preparing the 4Runner for overland travel for some time now, and it is time to really test it out. I leave tomorrow, Friday June 13th, for a 5 week adventure to Deadhorse Alaska and back. What better day to start an adventure. The first half I will travel alone, intentionally. The second half I will have co-pilots along with me. Here is how the truck sits now, ready for roughly 8,000 miles by the end of July.



All packed and ready to go. If you want to read up on the preparation for the trip, Click here.

My In Progress Adventure thread is linked here, called Equipt's Alaska Solo Trek

I'd love to hear your input/thoughts/comments. See you on the road.

Cheers,

 

[ttora4runner]

Jealous of your trip.

 

[Utah KJ]

Thanks! So basically if it's something that receives a signal it's better to not have the wires laying across/touching other wires for interference reasons? But if they're wires going to some aux lights, compressor, etc it's ok? I ask because I have a CB in my truck that I kind of taught myself how to wire with, even tho I still suck at it... When I installed my speakers, amp and sub in my truck I somehow had some interference somewhere. Never heard it until I had the amp installed and it became magnified. I have tried so many things to get rid of it...the only thing that works is to turn the music up more...which I dont have a problem with at all!

So another noob question. What's the difference between what you have and a Bluesea fuse box? And why did you decide to go the route you did other than knowing how it all works and putting it together yourself?

Thanks, Paul!

Edit: Also, would you recommend doing this without the dual batt?

The entire chassis is the negative return to the battery so therefore its a power wire as well.

 

[Yuman Desert Rat]

Godspeed on your journey, Mr. May....
I look forward to the updates...

 

[KiwiKurt]

Great truck/build. Looking forward to updates!

 

[Box Rocket]

Be safe Pablo! See you when you get back.

 

[SWITAWI]

Paul, are you taking an extra spare? Just curious...

 

[Yuman Desert Rat]

Paul, are you taking an extra spare? Just curious...

he was able to fit a full size spare in the stock location under the vehicle. knock on wood he won't need it!