wackyhacky76CO
Active member
Thanks! Did you have to clear a shark fin antenna on your roof as well? Just curious.
2020 Overland Explorer Vehicles (OEV) CAMP-X pop-up slide-in pickup camper (renamed "Back Country" as of 2023)
- Thread starter Chadx
- Start date
Sorry I didn't have the rig handy to check: No, I don't have a shark fin. There is a little sensor on the roof exterior, kind of above the passanger headrest area, but it doesn't protrude up any higher than the rear cyclops brakelight assembly, which is basically flush with the roof.
ozzy370
New member
Does anyone have issues with closing the roof when adding under-bed storage or adding a mattress topper? Added a 2.5-inch memory foam topper and removed the pull handle from the roof support but still had issues with roof alignment. Tried lowering back first, tried the roof jiggle method with the supports, and had no luck getting it back aligned with the mattress topper on. Just curious about others' experiences and solutions. It seems the front roof support has too much negative angle once the back drops and pushes the roof forward.
wackyhacky76CO
Active member
Well, we finally got our mounting brackets installed & DCDC wiring completed & are finally ready to bring our camper home. Just a curious question I have for those of you who take your Camp-X/BC on & off throughout the year. Below is picture of my driveway which as you can see is slighty sloped. (Not a dang level spot on it unfortunately.) My hope is to be able to drop it on & off in front of this garage bay with plans to build a dolly to use for moving it in & out of the garage (for winter storage) since I won't have enough door height to unload it in the bay. Having never used camper jacks, I am assuming this slight incline isn't a biggest issue for doing something like that. And yes, the dolly will 100% have locking casters
Any input, tips, opinions are greatly appreciated.
Any input, tips, opinions are greatly appreciated.wackyhacky76CO
Active member
Pics of the current Tundra (2nd Gen) 6.5' Bed Brackets... for inquiring minds.
I made this doubled up 3/4" board riser for the pick up trip. I may still investigate taller "pucks" once we get it home. Our local OEV dealer was very against going that route. He has long term concerns of the taller puck/longer bolts (and the fact there is only so much thread) getting damaged overtime. I get what he means, but if OEV is okay with it, then I feel like I am.
I made this doubled up 3/4" board riser for the pick up trip. I may still investigate taller "pucks" once we get it home. Our local OEV dealer was very against going that route. He has long term concerns of the taller puck/longer bolts (and the fact there is only so much thread) getting damaged overtime. I get what he means, but if OEV is okay with it, then I feel like I am.
MisterSmith
Member
Below is picture of my driveway which as you can see is slighty sloped. (Not a dang level spot on it unfortunately.) My hope is to be able to drop it on & off in front of this garage bay with plans to build a dolly to use for moving it in & out of the garage (for winter storage) since I won't have enough door height to unload it in the bay. Having never used camper jacks, I am assuming this slight incline isn't a biggest issue for doing something like that. And yes, the dolly will 100% have locking casters
You need to be very careful with the slope. My old driveway had a slope, and I thought I could remove my CAMP-X without issue. Boy, was I wrong. The longer you extend the legs of the lift jacks, the worse it gets. Try to make your dolly as tall as possible, and try using blocks under the legs to avoid extending them. You can get a nice 2500lb winch at Harbor Freight for $80 with a remote. Anchor it into the back of the garage and it will make it easy to pull the camper into the garage. The taller your truck is, the worse the problem is going to be.
ITTOG
Well-known member
I completely agree with this statement. Even doing everything mentioned once you start pulling out from under the camper it will start leaning forward. Therefore you should anchor it with a rope pulling it back up the driveway so it can't lean forward. Otherwise you risk bending your jacks, or worse, the camper falling.
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Yes. We added a 2" Mattress topper because the OEV mattress was so firm it was making us sore. We removed the pull handle, and our setup still closes......but, if there is anything else (such as the comforter), it'll throw it off alignment when we lower it. So we literally flip up our comforter before dropping the top.
I honestly don't know how the under-bed storage would work because it would be too thick to align the top. We are considering building our own 4" thick dual density mattress to have better clearance.
tacollie
Glamper
We have the under bed storage. We replaced the factory mattress with a 4 Tochta mattress. We removed the pull handle. We leave our bedding and pillows in place. We don't have issue closing the camper. The front won't actually go all the way down until we start to lower the rear.
wackyhacky76CO
Active member
Thanks to everyone for their input as we prepared to bring our 2021 Camp-X home. It was successful journey and we are looking forward to enjoying many more miles and nights in her!
It is sadly the last time she will be parked next to a Ferrari, but hopefully she likes CO. LOL....
It is sadly the last time she will be parked next to a Ferrari, but hopefully she likes CO. LOL....I submit that it's more sad for the Ferrari as it may be the last time it gets to park next to a CAMP-X.
wackyhacky76CO
Active member
Quite Right!
wackyhacky76CO
Active member
So I removed our Camp X for the first time last night. I have your normal Dewalt 20V Max 1/2" drill and was having a ton of trouble getting it to work as soon as the jacks starting really lifting the front or weight of the camper. Is an 1/4" Impact acceptable or a better option since there is more torque? I can't see where Rieco says you shouldn't do this, but just curious on other's experiences on this.
Don't use impacts on the jacks! You'll beat the internals to pieces. Make sure your drill is on the torque setting rather than speed setting. My Milwaukee 18v is a torque monster on that setting and does quite well. But realize it gets harder to crank each jack as it takes a larger percentage of weight. Often, other jack feet start to come off the ground.
When doing it by yourself with a drill, best practice is to take smaller bites (less cranks/height) then move to another jack and just keep working your way around. Just run it until it takes some good weight. You'll hear the rpm of the drill change. Probably only a couple of inches (or whatever about 10 rotations equals) each bite
Better yet, have two manual cranks on hand and you and another person crank on opposite sides simultaneously; both on front, both on back, repeat.
My wife and I do only 10 cranks at a time then both move to other set.
Another tip when using a drill. Stop well before the jack max or min setting. Those drills have so much torque if they stop abruptly, they twist out of your hand and can mess up your wrists or even hit you in the forehead if you are too close (that is 7 stitches of experience talking). In my case, during the offseason, I'd stored the jacks cranked at their shortest setting, installed them, had the drill set to rotate the opposite direction of the needed direction to extend the jack, so it couldn't shorten the jack anymore and it flipped right out of my hand and smacked me. I was in a hurry, of course, which contributed. Less stuff like that happens when you choose a time period when you are not in a hurry and can be methodical.
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wackyhacky76CO
Active member
My Dewalt is inadequate...