86 Suburban, warwgn's build.

warwgn

Explorer
purdy sure it is my fault, when I pulled the pan to verify the dipstick level I didnt reclean the gasket or pan so proly got some schumntz or something in there causing the leak. The part that suck is having to jet the jack and stuff under there so I can pull the trans mount out so I can get the rear bolts out and back in on the pan. If I dont do that it just wont line up right, but on the plus side I can hit the lip of the pan with the angle grinder to relieve the spot where the shift rod touches when all the way down to 1st, just barely touches.
 

warwgn

Explorer
Well dang, this build is on hold for a few days, I hit a deer head on yesterday on my goldwing coming home from work. Was in a hurry so I could pull the pan and git it all fixed so was running about 65 or 70 and wham stupid deer jumped out of th. left side and went full speed right in front of me. No time to brake or anything, so I got thrown and rolled several time and wound up in the ditch on my back. The bike is purdy bad and might cost too much to fix, it came to rest about 100 yds from impact and went about 75 yds. The deer was dead in the other ditch about 20 ft in front of the bike.

good part is my coworker pulled in behind me about 2 min after impact, he was coming to my house to look at a ATV i have for sale, anyway the cops agreed since this was the first day of primative weapons deer season and my bike is a 93 so it qualified as a primative weapon so we got to keep the deer. Loaded it in the back of my friends truck, he is gonna make sausage for me.

needless to say I will need to heal up a bit before getting back under the suburban, I wound up with all the ribs on my left side being bruised and some road rash, but ok for the most part. Gotta go to the doc tomorrow and get checked ove again and see about getting a week off work to heal up. Now the fun begins with the insurance company.
 

warwgn

Explorer
Ok been slacking on updates n junk but Subzila is running!! Had to have a buddy come over and turn wrenches for me, and now there are no oil leaks, we cleaned the pan and put rtv on the pan and the trans then sandwiched the gasket between. Also did a small amount of grinding on the lip of the pan to clearance the shift cable linkage. Next he pulled the lower oil cooling line out of the radiator and wrapped a little Teflon tape on it then put it back in and that was fixed.

filled it back up with oil and took off to the gas station and put $96.00 in it. Man it felt good real good, 2K rpm at 70 mph and it shift nice and firm pulled the small hills on my road without me needing to give any additional throttle. Still need to adjust the shift points a little and drive again, but I did do a standing romp on the throttle in my driveway and it spun plenty good. Then did a power brake, but since the shift points aren't right it acted funny, also found I had it set to auto shift out of 1st at 2200 rpm. That threw me off having it pulled into first and it shifted anyway. I changed it too 5500 so should be better now. I will upload that video in a few, and I am calling tomorrow to schedule the dyna run for Wednesday since I don't go back to work till Thursday due to the bruised ribs from rolling down the street at 70 mph in the bike crash.

oh after the gas run got home and popped the hood to check fluid level and noticed a leak on the firewall where the AC stuff is, turned out to be a pin hole in the 5/8 heater line. Glad it showed up when it did. And not next weekend when I am pulling the camper, so I got to swap both heater hoses out today. I got to say that was very hard to do, with all my left side ribs bruised I could not pull the dang hose off without serious pain, so had to get a blade out and cut them off, all of this in 37 degree cold out. Now got to wire the trailer plug back in and connect the brake controler back up. Time to put some miles on it and see how it goes.
 

superbuickguy

Explorer
That's awesome that you got it running, but the teflon tape on the automatic line shouldn't work - which is short hand for saying, you may be repairing it again soon. Most times when they leak there, there's something either caught in the joint or there's rust on the line that allows the fluid to leak - thus, worst case is you have to cut then reflare the line (don't forget to leave the fitting on the line) but most times you can hit the inside of the flare with a bit of sand paper and it will clean up enough to seal correctly.... worse, worst case fix is a brass fitting with a rubber hose - I'm too lazy to look back, are you running a transmission cooler? in any case, the reason I bring it up - rubber hoses suck and will blow off under load - which leads to buying a new transmission... :mad:
 

warwgn

Explorer
Ha ha, well your laziness has you missing a lot. I am using 6 An hose ends and stainless steel braided hose, the spot that leaked is 1/4" npt to 6AN fitting so since it does not have a flare at all the threads are what seal the connection so the Teflon tape did the trick, but will keep an eye on it just to be sure.
 

chilliwak

Expedition Leader
All I can say is I am happy you lived from that accident War! You could be dead right now. :Wow1:Here is hoping that you get some decent coin from your insurance company. I am also glad to hear that your rig is shifting well and that you have a chance to drive it. The best to you and hoping you have a speedy recovery...:)
 

warwgn

Explorer
Hey thanks for the well wishes guys, I am a purdy lucky guy indeed, not many folks take spill of a bike at 70 mph and walk away from it with only minor injuries. The estimate is now in the hands of the insurance company and I hope to hear something this week, I came up with about 3500 in parts and stuff and most of that is off ebay.

anyway Here is a quick vid of the truck as stated above.

 

warwgn

Explorer
Well here it is








Well needles to say this was not a good run, couldn't keep it from shifting up. Supposed to get it in high gear and Rev to 2000 rpm then hit the green button and put it on the floorn, well mine kept down shifting then up shift also the lockup converter was playing havoc with the machine. So they said it has a lot of power but could bot get an accurate reading due to the shifting? At least I didn't have to pay for it.
 

barefoot boy

Observer
IIRC, you are using the US Shift Quick 1 controller? I briefly reviewed that manual and it appears to come preloaded with a basic program that is configured for your engine/transmission combination. If all this is so, did you have to make many changes to the program in it and how did you determine what needed to be changed? Did you use any tech support from your transmission supplier or directly from US Shift? I believe you earlier had a TCI controller on the previous 4L80E. Was the "tuning" experience similar for the two controllers? Thanks.
 

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