I use the photos from my Face Book page. For some reason they are going away at times. All photo can be seen on the FB page though, for both threads. I am far from computer savy and this is the easiest way for me to grab photos.
Trans cooler lines, trans/radiator/trans cooler/trans
They are set up to come apart where the motor and trans meet to allow removal oof motor or trans without hassle of lines in the way.
This is when the real fun begins The amount of aftermarket wiring was staggering, like some electronic octopus with wires running everywhere. All but OEM wiring is now removed and all OEM wiring that was hacked has been repaired. Everything that I put in the truck that is electrical will run from a new and separate fuse block. This will include new headlight harness and horn circuit. It is real easy to add a fuse block rather than start tapping into circuits that are old and often questionable.
Thank you. I crossed the last one just in front of the cross member and it worked out well. Will most likely do the same unless something else looks better.
Like most it's age, the fuseable links were shot on this truck, even bare wire showing. They are NLA so I went with a marine grade Blue Sea terminal block. 300 amp max, fuses from 30-300 amp. If the owner goes with a winch it will attach at the main bolt and be fused on it's own.
I found a pedal style I like and even found it in a replacement form from Lokar, but it is $379.00 complete with replacement electronics. Already have the electronics so I got the generic cable control variant of the same thing for $79.00 and used half of it. The arm mounts to a splined hub making the pedal position adjustable. The brake pedal also has about 3/4" height adjustment. The accelerator pedal is now 1" higher than shown in photo.
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