.Apparently, the height can be adjusted to two different levels by adding leg extensions, it just takes a little more work.
They provide the extensions? I didn't see that.
.Apparently, the height can be adjusted to two different levels by adding leg extensions, it just takes a little more work.
.
They provide the extensions? I didn't see that.
.It appears they are included.
I would look at the last one I posted. It has telescoping legs, so no removable parts to put together. However, some of the reviews are saying it's pretty unstable at the 36" height, so read the reviews first and make your own decision.
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I ordered thee one rirenz found
.Is there anything that Amazon doesn't have??
.Yes, I would definitely support that filter. If it moves around much it could develop stress cracks and then...water everywhere! Maybe you could use a big hose clamp around it and some kind of bracket mounted on the wall behind it, or a small fire extinguisher bracket if the size is close, which it looks like it is.
I can't tell from the picture, but does your blue drain cans have an air vent in them? Or is there air space around the hose where it enters the lid? If the cans are not vented, the back pressure will prevent water from entering them after just a little bit of use.
It's looking good, and you're making good progress too!
You should set up a splitter for your gray water exits and fresh water inlets. That way you can easily hook up to water and sewer lines when available.
Here's my setup:
Freshwater:
City water source : pressure control check valve: inline filter : potable hose line : RV freshwater inlet connector mounted on the underside of a compartment : freshwater hose line : manual check valve : [splitter 1].
Freshwater tank source : potable hose line : water pump : manual check valve : [splitter 1].
[splitter 1] : faucet
Note that I do not currently have a hot water unit. When I do install one, it will be in the final line after the splitter.
Greywater
Sink drain : hose line : RV grey water exit connector mounted on the underside of a compartment : (from here I either attach a water hose designated for grey water use to link to the sewer drain, or I attach a sealed, water tight expandable grey water storage bag. For longer stays I attach a splitter to connect to bags. They are cheap and work well. When properly installed they don't leak and seal for "safe"transport to a dump station. The exact units I use are a Zebra 7701 covered bags.
I wire the water pump to be controlled by a switch on the rear box switch panel. This way I can turn it on and off easily when I'm using the sink. However, instead of using the stock wiring, I tapped into the wiring for the former IV fluid warming tray which I deleted as it sees 12 volts at all times where the rear panel is on or off. This allows me to use the water pump selectively when the ambulance is not connected to shore power or being powered by the generator.
.You should set up a splitter for your gray water exits and fresh water inlets. That way you can easily hook up to water and sewer lines when available.
Here's my setup:
Freshwater:
City water source : pressure control check valve: inline filter : potable hose line : RV freshwater inlet connector mounted on the underside of a compartment : freshwater hose line : manual check valve : [splitter 1].
Freshwater tank source : potable hose line : water pump : manual check valve : [splitter 1].
[splitter 1] : faucet
Note that I do not currently have a hot water unit. When I do install one, it will be in the final line after the splitter.
Greywater
Sink drain : hose line : RV grey water exit connector mounted on the underside of a compartment : (from here I either attach a water hose designated for grey water use to link to the sewer drain, or I attach a sealed, water tight expandable grey water storage bag. For longer stays I attach a splitter to connect to bags. They are cheap and work well. When properly installed they don't leak and seal for "safe"transport to a dump station. The exact units I use are a Zebra 7701 covered bags.
I wire the water pump to be controlled by a switch on the rear box switch panel. This way I can turn it on and off easily when I'm using the sink. However, instead of using the stock wiring, I tapped into the wiring for the former IV fluid warming tray which I deleted as it sees 12 volts at all times where the rear panel is on or off. This allows me to use the water pump selectively when the ambulance is not connected to shore power or being powered by the generator.
In that case, you better hurry up!![]()
Using it before you to get too committed to the preliminary design is one of the best things you can do. What looked like a great idea sitting in the parking lot, may not actually be so good once you get on the road and in the campsite. So this will allow you to tweak and adjust things before they become permanent.
Sounds like it's going to be a great trip!