Ambulance Conversion - New Modifications.

[yzeevy]

Yea. My 2.5 floor jack struggles so I got a 20 ton bottle that I carry with me. Also a high lift which could be useful in Some situations.
Actually when I got my new tires and rims the shop had to use my bottle Jack to do the rears and mines light being a mini-mod.

.
I'm considering the Craftsman Professional 12 ton Hydraulic Jack.
My concern is, in case of front tire flat maybe it wont fit under the axle!?

 

[yzeevy]

Refrigerator and Batteries

Hello,

Can I use a regular, "home" kind Ref. or I should use an RV specified one?
For long periods of travel, how efficient is using the portable kind?
.
I am ready to install 2 more home batteries.
There are hundreds of them from very chip to very expensive.
As I understand the AGM type is the best and safest kind.
.
I saw once somewhere a "box" with 2 batteries already wired with USB and 12v outlets.
.
Please, your input and recommendations.
.
Thanks

 

[patoz]

Your 'House Batteries' need to be matched to your 12VDC electrical load, and to your charging method and capabilities. Correct charging is critical to the longevity of the battery's life. Basically, you need to stay away from marine type 'deep cycle' batteries, which are actually a hybrid type, meaning part 'Starting' and part 'Deep Cycle', neither of which give full performance in either category, and go with a true dedicated 'Deep Cycle' type.

Personally, I went with two Trojan T-105 6VDC golf cart batteries, wired in series. I will (primarily) be charging them with a Magnum-Dimensions 2000W 12VDC Pure Sine Inverter Charger, which is a four stage charger and has a charging capacity of 100 amps DC. I'm starting with these two batteries, and if my 12VDC load increases, I'll add two more.

These are some of the articles I used as a reference when making my decision.

Choosing The Best RV Battery: Which Is Right For You?
http://www.doityourselfrv.com/best-rv-battery-choosing-reviews/

Thread: 2- 6 volt batteries or large 12 volt battery
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/50122-2-6-volt-batteries-or-large-12-volt-battery

Thread: which? two 6 volt or one 12 volt battery?
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/122111-which-two-6-volt-or-one-12volt-battery

CAR AND DEEP CYCLE BATTERY FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS 2015
http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq.htm


I have not purchased a refrigerator yet, but am leaning towards the 12VDC/120VAC portable chest type due to limited space. A lot of people use the small home or apartment type units, but if you do it needs to be a good quality one to withstand the bouncing around a vehicle causes, especially a 4x4 one.

The dedicated RV type that run on 12VDC/120VAC and propane need to be perfectly level when operating or damage will occur. The types that use a compressor don't have this requirement, up to a certain point. If you can afford it, the marine units are your best bet and they will operate in pretty much any position, within reason.

Here are some Search Results from Do It Yourself RV about refrigerators...
http://www.doityourselfrv.com/searc...:10&ie=UTF-8&q=Best+RV+Refrigerator&sa=Search

 

[emtmark]

Low power is for use in rain or snow as the bounce back of light can/will blind you


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[patoz]

Low power is for use in rain or snow as the bounce back of light can/will blind you


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That makes sense, thanks!

 

[emtmark]

Lola on the left Bertha on the right


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[emtmark]

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[yzeevy]

Low power is for use in rain or snow as the bounce back of light can/will blind you


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Thanks

So, if the switch is stuck in one position then the switch is bad ? !

 

[yzeevy]

Your 'House Batteries' need to be matched to your 12VDC electrical load, and to your charging method and capabilities. Correct charging is critical to the longevity of the battery's life. Basically, you need to stay away from marine type 'deep cycle' batteries, which are actually a hybrid type, meaning part 'Starting' and part 'Deep Cycle', neither of which give full performance in either category, and go with a true dedicated 'Deep Cycle' type.

Personally, I went with two Trojan T-105 6VDC golf cart batteries, wired in series. I will (primarily) be charging them with a Magnum-Dimensions 2000W 12VDC Pure Sine Inverter Charger, which is a four stage charger and has a charging capacity of 100 amps DC. I'm starting with these two batteries, and if my 12VDC increases, I'll add two more.

These are some of the articles I used as a reference when making my decision.

Choosing The Best RV Battery: Which Is Right For You?
http://www.doityourselfrv.com/best-rv-battery-choosing-reviews/

Thread: 2- 6 volt batteries or large 12 volt battery
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/50122-2-6-volt-batteries-or-large-12-volt-battery

Thread: which? two 6 volt or one 12 volt battery?
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/122111-which-two-6-volt-or-one-12volt-battery

CAR AND DEEP CYCLE BATTERY FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS 2015
http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq.htmI have not purchased a refrigerator yet, but am leaning towards the 12VDC/120VAC portable chest type due to limited space. A lot of people use the small home or apartment type units, but if you do it needs to be a good quality one to withstand the bouncing around a vehicle causes, especially a 4x4 one.

The dedicated RV type that run on 12VDC/120VAC and propane need to be perfectly level when operating or damage will occur. They types that use a compressor don't have this requirement, up to a certain point. If you can afford it, the marine units are your best bet and they will operate in pretty much any position, within reason.

Here are some Search Results from Do It Yourself RV about refrigerators...
http://www.doityourselfrv.com/searc...:10&ie=UTF-8&q=Best+RV+Refrigerator&sa=Search

Good morning,

I met yesterday someone at Camping World in Valencia and he mentioned that he has a problems with his ref.
because the Freon has to be leveled . . .
.
My ambo came with the VENNER 2-1050 CULW
http://www.vanner.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/EMS-Ambulance-Brochure-PDF-7-01.pdf
.
Maybe I should wait until I'll decide what to install . . .

 

[yzeevy]

After removing all the rear AC stuff I have a nice open space . . . 34"w x 60"h x 24"d
On the upper right corner there is a fan
I thought to install a corner sink on the left and a fridge on the right BUT . . .
.

.

In the center of the driver side wall I have another opening . . . 25"w x 20"d x 46" (51)h
.

.
There is this counter that can be lifted and lowered.
I thought to put there the stove maybe a gas stove-oven, but I need ventilation.
.
So, since in the AC section I have ventilation, I think to install the corner sink and the stove next to it,
and the fridge will go in the center behind the driver . . .
.
Of course any opinion is appreciated . . .

 

[flightcancled]

That CPR seat is actually nice to keep. If you want to face someone to play cards or eat dinner it is your only option. I'm putting the stove up front as well.

 

[yzeevy]

That CPR seat is actually nice to keep. If you want to face someone to play cards or eat dinner it is your only option. I'm putting the stove up front as well.

.
I have 2 cushions removed from the center that I think to install instead of the seat.
.
You mean the sink and stove combination behind the passenger seat?
.
What kind of stove / sink you are installing?!
.

 

[emtmark]

Thanks

So, if the switch is stuck in one position then the switch is bad ? !

No it's intended at a momentary, the ones I have used anyways. You would respond turn on primary's then hit the low power/intensity and that would cut usually the forward/lateral strobes. That would leave the softer incandescent flashers which are slower and less blinding as well as drop voltage to them resulting in a little less light over all.
I sometimes like to see the rain drops frozen in space so I leave it blazing. I also will turn lights off for a second upon arrival and pop them back on so while I'm stationary it's full power for incoming motorists to be warned.


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[patoz]

No it's intended at a momentary, the ones I have used anyways. You would respond turn on primary's then hit the low power/intensity and that would cut usually the forward/lateral strobes. That would leave the softer incandescent flashers which are slower and less blinding as well as drop voltage to them resulting in a little less light over all.
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Thanks for that explanation. The ambulances I drove in the 70's and 80's didn't have that feature. Heck, we didn't even have power windows. The KKK addresses it as a requirement, but doesn't really explain how it is supposed to work.

 

[yzeevy]

No it's intended at a momentary, the ones I have used anyways. You would respond turn on primary's then hit the low power/intensity and that would cut usually the forward/lateral strobes. That would leave the softer incandescent flashers which are slower and less blinding as well as drop voltage to them resulting in a little less light over all.
I sometimes like to see the rain drops frozen in space so I leave it blazing. I also will turn lights off for a second upon arrival and pop them back on so while I'm stationary it's full power for incoming motorists to be warned.


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.
Maybe I should clarify this.
When I drove the ambo home the switch was in OFF position.
Now it is in the ON (current) position.
I have noticed the change after it came back from Shampoo cleaning.
Any attempt to switch it OFF, a strong spring will bring it back to ON.