Ambulance Conversion - New Modifications.

[yzeevy]

I saw that but still am not clear of your kitchen plans. Perhaps a sketch would help us understand what you're planning to do.
On the pass side for linens/etc, do you mean the tall cabinet that's to the right as you walk into the module?

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Basically the construction of the unit dictates the camper setup . . .
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That is the driver side and because of the counters that will be the "kitchen".
I still have to decide if the center will have the STOVE or the SINK & FAUCET.
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And this will be the "bedroom"
I'll remove the bench and install a slide out SOFA BED.
(If you have good DIY instructions, please let me know)
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QUESTION:
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Have you disconnected the rear A/C?
If yes, was it difficult? Can I do it myself or I need a pro?

 

[patoz]

Hi,
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I have this vacuum pump next to the charger.
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Is this pump for ambulance purposes only?
I can disconnect it and remove all the vacuum points?
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View attachment 314328
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Thanks

Yes, it is for medical purposes only. It's used to supply a vacuum via tubing to a probe called a 'Tonsil Sucker'. We use it for clearing a patient's airway of any fluids or mucus.

 

[mk216v]

I'll watch with eagerness as to why you demo'd some of the walls.

 

[yzeevy]

Yes, it is for medical purposes only. It's used to supply a vacuum via tubing to a probe called a 'Tonsil Sucker'. We use it for clearing a patient's airway of any fluids or mucus.

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I think I found a few laying around . . .
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I vent thru your huge build and I saw you took apart the rear AC.
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As I understand and correct me if I am wrong:

I have a heat / cold rear unit but he works only with the engine on.
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On the top there are two fans, quite powerful, that sucks the air thru the radiator which is
chilled / heated by the main AC unit
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I guess this gizmo is a thermometer
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I thought if I could remove the radiator but keep the fan (rewired) it would be perfect.
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Do I need a professional for this job?
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BTW, since I'm not a big fan of diesel fumes, it is possible to adjust the exhaust pipe
up above the module?!? Do you know if somebody did this?

 

[yzeevy]

I'll watch with eagerness as to why you demo'd some of the walls.

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Efficiency . . .

 

[patoz]

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As I understand and correct me if I am wrong:

I have a heat / cold rear unit but he works only with the engine on.
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On the top there are two fans, quite powerful, that sucks the air thru the radiator which is
chilled / heated by the main AC unit
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View attachment 314369
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View attachment 314358

Correct, the rear heat and A/C units are extensions of the vehicle system, which is powered by radiator hot water and the A/C compressor mounted on the engine. The top unit in the back of the module (patient compartment) is generally the A/C evaporator coils and the squirrel cage blower fan. The unit near the very bottom is generally the heater radiator coils and its own blower fan (mine is like this but yours may be different). If you only have one unit, then the A/C and Heater coils are housed in the same unit. The heater hoses are just like the ones under your hood with hose clamps, and the A/C hoses are high pressure ones with swedged on fittings. Do Not Cut either of these unless you know exactly what you're doing, especially the A/C hoses. Pic. #1 above is the blower fan, pic. #2 looks like the A/C evaporator coils.

No, this is not the thermostat. That is usually located over on the 'Action Wall' which is where the rear electrical switch panel and the attendant's seat is. It will probably look like an older style mechanical home unit. This picture looks to be the fan speed control, which is wired from the electrical switch panel on the 'Action Wall'.

I thought if I could remove the radiator but keep the fan (rewired) it would be perfect.

The fan will operate without the heater core, but it may also have a temperature sensor that will limit the fan to either high or low speed. I assume you just want to use the fan for circulation correct? If so, you can test this by turning on the fan without the engine running or the Heat or A/C operating. If it runs, you're probably OK. If there is a sensor(s) and you remove it, the fan may stop working. If that is the case, then you will need to bypass the sensor and connect the two wires together, and then test it again. Also, the fan motor is a fairly heavy duty one and may draw good amount of current when it's running. It is probably more that you will want when you are operating just off of your house batteries.

With all of that being said, there is no way I would tear out the rear heat and air system if it was working fine, which it sounds like it is. I understand the need for A/C when you're camping, because I'm in the same situation living in Florida. I could care less if I put heat in there, but I've got to have my A/C! I know space is at a premium in these units, but I would try to install a portable A/C unit around the installed one if at all possible. Think about your resale value also. There is a kit you can get to convert the installed A/C to make it run off of 120VAC, but it is very expensive and very involved to install.

I'm sorry if I sound like I'm preaching to you, but I just hate to see you do something you may regret later on, just because you didn't know. I, like a lot of others, have spent a year or more researching and planning out our builds before we ever picked up the first screwdriver. When you mess up something on one of these, you can't just run down to Pep Boy's and buy another one.

 

[huskyhauler]

I'll put in my two cents regarding the rear A/C-heater. It's basically useless to me. In the three years I had it back there I never used it, not once, because I never ran the motor while not under way. A/C units need to continuously run to keep the box cool and the motor of the engine is really, really loud. It's so loud it's disruptive being inside the vehicle, let a lone attempting to enjoy being outside of the unit.

I remove and deleted my unit for two reasons. One, I never used it for the reasons listed above, and two, to gain more usable storage space in the cavity it left behind.

The cab unit A/C and heater has proven adequate while under way, and for camping I use an electric space heater or upright A/C depending on the season. I know I only live in Washington, but it gets in the high 90's and the low 30s here during the camping season, and my solution has worked well.

As for diesel fumes, don't worry about it. You'll be wasting a lot of time, effort, and resources creating smoke stacks and running them through the box. You should only be running the motor while warming the rig up and while under way. Neither of which should allow fumes to enter the cab.

I can't think of a reason you should b running the motor while camping or otherwise hanging out. If you set everything up properly you should be gaining all resources and power from your generator or shore power.

If you do end up removing the rear A/C-heater unit it's really easy. Take it to a repair shop that services A/C units. It'll cost around $60 for them to evacuate the freon from the A/C lines, at which point you can simply unbolt the lines and snake them out. The heater lines will need to be cut and looped back together with an in-line adapter or coolant filter. This is easy, but the lines will be under slight pressure. Wear goggles and towel off the entire area around the lines as the lines will spurt and drain a bit when you cut them. The A/C-heater unit is relatively light and is easily removed by removing a few screws and prying up the sticky tape holding in place.

I used some 1/8th inch plywood to line the cavity and it works great. I mocked up the rear panel so that it's removable so I can access the recess behind it for maintenance and whatever future work might require easy access.

 

[patoz]

Huskyhauler, you make some good points.

As long as no one is ever going to be riding in the back while traveling, then by all means, rip it out! However, you will not travel in Southern California, Texas, or Florida during the summer without A/C in the back. Even my Toyota Sequoia SUV had a separate A/C unit in the back. I drove these units as an EMT for too many years not to know that.

Since mine is now a camper trailer, and no one will ever ride in it while it's moving, I'm looking at installing a Mitsubishi Single-Zone Mini Split Heat Pump System or a Pioneer Ductless DC Inverter Mini Split Air Conditioner, Heat Pump System. Both are very quiet and efficient, provide heat also, with very little current draw. My only holdup is where to mount the inside unit due to it's size and shape.

 

[yzeevy]

Huskyhauler, you make some good points.

As long as no one is ever going to be riding in the back while traveling, then by all means, rip it out! However, you will not travel in Southern California, Texas, or Florida during the summer without A/C in the back. Even my Toyota Sequoia SUV had a separate A/C unit in the back. I drove these units as an EMT for too many years not to know that.

Since mine is now a camper trailer, and no one will ever ride in it while it's moving, I'm looking at installing a Mitsubishi Single-Zone Mini Split Heat Pump System or a Pioneer Ductless DC Inverter Mini Split Air Conditioner, Heat Pump System. Both are very quiet and efficient, provide heat also, with very little current draw. My only holdup is where to mount the inside unit due to it's size and shape.

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Thanks for responding to huskyhauler, I found myself in the middle of opposing opinions . . .
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I considered a split AC but 9000 BTU is about 2600 watts witch is OK with a shore line but not for my single generator.
I'll stick to the 5000 BTU window AC, as soon as I'll decide where to install it.
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Good night

 

[patoz]

And that's just it, they are just opinions...our opinions. There is no hard and fast rules or laws, it's what will suit your needs the best, and you will be the one that will have to determine that.

So good luck and most of all, have fun building it!

 

[yzeevy]

If you do end up removing the rear A/C-heater unit it's really easy. Take it to a repair shop that services A/C units. It'll cost around $60 for them to evacuate the freon from the A/C lines, at which point you can simply unbolt the lines and snake them out. The heater lines will need to be cut and looped back together with an in-line adapter or coolant filter. This is easy, but the lines will be under slight pressure. Wear goggles and towel off the entire area around the lines as the lines will spurt and drain a bit when you cut them. The A/C-heater unit is relatively light and is easily removed by removing a few screws and prying up the sticky tape holding in place.

I used some 1/8th inch plywood to line the cavity and it works great. I mocked up the rear panel so that it's removable so I can access the recess behind it for maintenance and whatever future work might require easy access.

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Thank you for assuming I understand that. I'll find me someone who can also disconnect and remove the AC unit.
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Do you have an idea what this parts, "radiator" and the fan worth? Maybe I'll exchange them for the labor!?

 

[yzeevy]

And that's just it, they are just opinions...our opinions. There is no hard and fast rules or laws, it's what will suit your needs the best, and you will be the one that will have to determine that.

So good luck and most of all, have fun building it!

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And I appreciate and thankful for every one of them.

 

[Rich S.]

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Thanks for your respond Rich S.
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1. It was Electrical Jungle but Spaghetti is much better and appropriate.

4. I start removing the big light bar but I can't find a connector to disconnect the power cable. Looks like I have to cut the wires one by one and insulate them. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
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5. I don't know what the size of your spare, but how you will lift and remove it from the top?
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6. Great idea, did you left the power on? What kind of paint you used? Do they make it in RED ? ! ?
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7. Can I find these rectangular pieces of aluminum at Home Depot? I'm sure you have noticed that my AMBULANCE IS COMUNIST ! !
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Can I see some pics of your AMBO?
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Sorry for the delay, thought a reply was posted several days ago, but it got lost in space apparently.

4. Removing light bar…. My old style was all halogen with all red color, with no uses now. So, the wires were just cut off.

5. Spare on roof rack, similar to what AmboVan Restarted used. Facts are believe at least one mounted spare is needed and currently have it taking up the rear passenger’s side storage compartment. Want the compartment back and do not know of any other good place for it except the cab roof. Thinking sun visor!




6. I repainted the red flasher around the top of the box white, had to paint both inside and outside. With flasher on, they are a dim pink color. However, with no prep work, the paint is flaking off and looks bad.
Some people use the aluminum diamond plate and it can look good.
I happened to have some white painted aluminum and riveted a patch over one flasher unit. It looks good, just more work. See below.

 

[yzeevy]

Sorry for the delay, thought a reply was posted several days ago, but it got lost in space apparently.

4. Removing light bar…. My old style was all halogen with all red color, with no uses now. So, the wires were just cut off.

5. Spare on roof rack, similar to what AmboVan Restarted used. Facts are believe at least one mounted spare is needed and currently have it taking up the rear passenger's side storage compartment. Want the compartment back and do not know of any other good place for it except the cab roof. Thinking sun visor!


6. I repainted the red flasher around the top of the box white, had to paint both inside and outside. With flasher on, they are a dim pink color. However, with no prep work, the paint is flaking off and looks bad.
Some people use the aluminum diamond plate and it can look good.
I happened to have some white painted aluminum and riveted a patch over one flasher unit. It looks good, just more work. See below.

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I managed to follow the cable of the big light bar and its going straight to the control panel so I had no choice but to cut the wires.
On the studs, I think to install some kind of a windbreaker to reduce drag!
You think it may make a difference?
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[Rich S.]

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...On the studs, I think to install some kind of a windbreaker to reduce drag!
You think it may make a difference?
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You mean the light bar supports?
If you cruise much past about 65 mph, a decent air damn might give you another 2 or 3% better fuel economy (estimated.)
If one got 13.5 mph average, then 2.5% would increase that to 13.8 mph.
Don't believe one would notice short term.
Differences in quality of diesel fuel, air pressure in ties, what shoes the driver is wearing and the drivers mode can affect your mileage more.
But it would help.