An Axe - Seriously?

[downhill]

You can find old axes at estate sales. Every rural estate sale has axes, and at giveaway prices. Pretty much all the old domestic axe heads are made of good steel and they don't go bad. I can tell with one lick of a file what I have. Somebody will end up buying mine for 75 cents. I like the idea of continuiing a legacy as well. Using an axe properly is a real skill, and that is part of what makes it a rewarding mental and physical exercise. For me it is part of the outdoor experience. When I need to clear a log from the road I usually just grab the chainsaw and get it moved. When I have time to enjoy the work at camp I use the axe. I look forward to it.

The different handle materials all have a unique character. Steel is a bulletproof workhorse. I've found that for extended use though it transmits more shock to your joints. You also can't slide your hands along it with the same ease you can a wood or glass handle. I like fiberglass for splitting mauls because it is very tough, but it tends to be too flexible for an axe handle IMO. I haven't found anything that beats hickory even though it is the most fragile, requires the most care, and has the shortest lifespan. It has the right amount of flex. It is very light which concentrates most of the weight in the head. I like that balance. It feels good in the hand, hot or cold, gloves or no. Generally I chop barehanded. It allows a sliding technique easily.

Hickory handles generally come with a coat of lacquer. That needs to be sanded off and boiled linseed oil applied. Gunstack finishes like Birchwood Casey oil finish also work well and look great. Producing the initial finish takes a little time, but an occasional touch-up is quick and easy.

 

[zolo]

I have 2 Pulaski's left over from my USFS fire days.

One is modified to pound wedges and the other a straight up model. I use it to chop wood and then put out the ole camp fire.
Seeing as that's what its made for it does very well at mixing water and dirt or just dirt and cold dirt.

The Pulaski is the way to go. No other tool does a better job of multi tasking the ground as that one. IMHO.....

 

[E.J.]

I have 2 Pulaski's left over from my USFS fire days.

I'm sure those are really nice but how do you suppose they compare to a $500 Pülaski :ylsmoke:

 

[teotwaki]

Is this thread still alive - seriously?

I am glad that it is. I've learned a lot.

 

[downhill]

As far as finish on wooden tool handles I like "Tung oil". I like it on furniture too. Anyway sand the handle smooth with some fine sand paper and get the old finish off. On an ax you can use some course sand paper across the grain at the base end to roughen it up a little for you stationary hand to grip. Then saturate some fine steel wool with tung oil and polish the wood (with the grain) with the wet steel wool. Let it sit a few minutes and wipe it off with a rag. (Don't store these rags indoors they can spontaneously combust!) Do this every night for a week building up a rich finish that feels Oh So Good in your hands. I also wipe the sharpened head with the tung oil rag. It leaves a nice look and a protective coat that keeps it from rusting. Each coat only takes a couple of minutes to do. I try to do several tools at a time to make good use of having the materials out. The Tung oil is also good for soaking the wedge end when you set the handle just like linseed oil. Linseed oil will darken in sunlight and over time. Tung oil doesn't though if that matters to you.

Yep, any oil finish will work. I use it on hammers and other tools so I buy the gallons of linseed oil which is cheaper. You're right about the wedge end, and I guess some people may not know, but soaking the wedge end swells the wood and sets the head dead tight. Works for any wood handled tool. When the wood dries it shrinks and the head gets loose. I keep a container of linseed big enough for the heads to submerge and soak them over night. A wedge alone won't get the head that tight. In another 30 years nobody will know any of this stuff,.......or care.

 

[Desert Dan]

A sledge and pick are nice too.

Now days I carry a small bow or folding saw, Estwing Fireside Friend a shovel and a highlift jack.


The Fireside Friend doubles as an axe, hatchet and small sledge hammer

Estwing Fireside Friend
http://www.estwing.com/product.php?product_id=1400

 

[BigSwede]

I've been looking at the Fireside Friend, but haven't bought one yet...kinda wish it was 3 lb. instead of 4. I already have a Estwing camp ax and hatchet so I was thinking maybe I'd get by without it.

 

[BigSwede]

That's a good idea. Still undecided though, the FF looks cool, and I was thinking if I had one I could get rid of the 24 oz hammer I carry with the tool kit.

 

[Scott B.]

Awesome thread. I have learned a lot.

I have a "not new" axe (only about 15 years old) that I would like to replace the handle on.

Could someone please the process of changing the handle? I understand the wedge principle, and have replaced other handles with wedges, but have never heard about soaking the wedge in oil. It sounds like a really good idea.

Thank you.

 

[E.J.]

This is a pretty good read
http://www.pcta.org/pdf/an_ax_to_grind.pdf

 

[oliverlove]

The .pdf for sharpening isn't working, would someone mind posting it up? I would love to have that file.

Great thread for a younger guy here. I have learned a bunch over the last 32 pages!!!

 

[mjmcdowell]

Replacing an Axe handle

Scott, search: "How to hang an Axe" you will be good to go. mjmcdowell

 

[Scott B.]

Very good read - thanks.

 

[downhill]

Very good read - thanks.

Was your question answered about handle replacement? I'll throw out a couple of things. Getting the old handle out can be a pain. I do it by sawing the handle off just below the head and drilling a hole down through the center of the head. Don't hit the metal. Then I use a punch to drive out pieces of wood into the hole till the head comes loose. You drive the pieces out the top. Metal wedges make this harder to do, and if the head of your axe is full of them and also nails and other crap, you will see one reason why it's better to use wood wedges. Clean the inside of the head out good, and remove any rust. After I check the handle fit and sand off all the lacquer, I wipe the inside of the head and the mating handle area with linseed oil. I alo use oil in the wedge slot and on the wedge. It's like lubricating a bolt before tightening. You can get things alot tighter! I like wedge wood that is slightly softer than the hickory. I like wedges that are long wide and thin so they reach way down into the head. One reason I don't like steel wedges is because they are usually way too short. I want the whole head area swollen, not just the top. After I get it all together as best I can, I soak the head end in enough linseed oil to reach up maybe 1/2" beyond the metal onto the handle. I leave it overnight. I do this to swell the wood, and also to create a perfect seal between the wood and metal so water cannot wick in. Once a year I repeat this to keep it from drying out. Once the head is set I finish the handle. I try to do this in the winter.

There are probably as many way of doing this as there are axe men.

One thing that I've seen guys do is heat the head with a torch to help loosen an old handle for replacement. This is a real quick way to ruin your axe. Don't do it.

 

[Fireman78]

http://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-Spray-AEROSOL-CAN/dp/B001OKBFBS Best stuff in the WORLD to keep the axe head from rusting.