Any built 300tdi D1 owners here?
- Thread starter Viggen
- Start date
jrose609
Explorer
Nonimouse, do you have access to a breaker or parts house? I'm having a hard time finding a good used replacement turbo for my wife's rig. RRC with 300tdi.
If you could help that would be great. Here's my email jrose609@msn.com
Thanks!
Jason
If you could help that would be great. Here's my email jrose609@msn.com
Thanks!
Jason
Rovertrader
Supporting Sponsor
Nonimouse- any way you can find a short R380 bellhousing to mate to a 200Tdi/2.5? I had a '95 110 that had this setup, and need to supply one to a buddy here in the States. Near impossible to locate here... Thanks
jrose609
Explorer
Sweet. I will check it out. $650 seems good for brand new.
EDIT: I bought one of the ebay ones. $450 shipped to my door. Has 1 yr warranty. I'll try it out and report back.
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Nonimouse
Cynical old bastard
RIghto, easiest way is the following - from Ashcrofts
Product Information
Although this is still an R 380 I thought it warranted it"s own separate section,
The "Stumpy" or short bellhousing R380 was made by Landrover as a direct replacement for the 4 Cyl LT77. The bellhousing is 30mm shorter than the LT77 one as the 5th speed housing on the R380 is 30mm longer.
These have been on factory backorder with no ETA for about 3 years. We are always getting asked for them so decided to make the parts required to convert the Tdi and TD5 380s to the short bellhousing specification.
They can be fitted to the 2.5 N/A, 2.5 petrol and the 200 TDI engines, anywhere the 4 Cyl LT77 is fitted.
This type of R 380 was made with two ratio options, the type 50A and the 44A, the 50A has the lower gearing like the 50A LT77 and the 44A has the higher gearing like the type 56A 200 Tdi Defender LT77. Also both ratio options were made in suffix J, K and L format.
We are able to supply the parts for the type 50A suffix J and the 44A suffix L, The 44A suffix L being the most desirable as this has the higher gearing and the strength advantages of the later suffix L design.
The Landrover part number of the 44A suffix L is TRC103140 The Landrover part number of the 50A suffix L is TRC103150
We are able to either supply a kit of parts to allow you to convert your R 380 to this spec or we can supply a complete rebuilt unit to this spec.
The conversion parts are :
Bellhousing (FTC4018) inc bolts £ 165
Pinion (TUD102860) £ 85
Front Housing (TVQ100200) £ 32
Clutch fork pivot(FTC4173&FTC4174) inc screws £ 14
Clutch fork (FTC2957HD) £ 10
Clutch fork thrust pads, pair (FRC5255) £ 4
Clutch release bearing (UTJ100210) £ 24
Clutch release bearing clip (FRC3416) £ 1.20
We are also able to supply a complete rebuilt R 380 to this spec complete with the above parts at £ 945 rebuilt outright.
These are obviously more expensive than a replacement LT77 but are both far stronger and have the facility to add an oil cooler if required, worth the extra money if you are keeping the Defender or if it"s working hard like an overlander etc.
Price: £945.00
I know both David and Ian quite well but doubt I can do much better on price. I doubt the odd personal export would upset the outlets in the US.
I'll have a chat with my eldest's godfather later this week and see if he can hand luggage a bell housing out on his next trip. Either that or my cousin is lecturing on the West coast soon.... (have to get it to Finland for that but that's easy)
I prefer the LT77. It's not as refined or as strong as the R380 but when it fails it fails big time, whereas the LT77 just slogs on with just 4th to get you home.
Nonimouse
Cynical old bastard
As for the temporary 300Tdi Auto.
Water pump failed in style just as we were leaving to go off North for a week. I said some bad words that I will no doubt go to hell for; then chucked all the kit in the 110, threw on the trailer tent and left. The old girl didn't miss a beat over 1.7K miles and average 35 mpg (imperial)
New pump is now in along with new belt. Disco drives nicely
Water pump failed in style just as we were leaving to go off North for a week. I said some bad words that I will no doubt go to hell for; then chucked all the kit in the 110, threw on the trailer tent and left. The old girl didn't miss a beat over 1.7K miles and average 35 mpg (imperial)
New pump is now in along with new belt. Disco drives nicely
David Harris
Expedition Leader
Interesting insight on the practical diff between the two. I've heard of R380's breaking down in the middle of nowhere. Might just have to think about going LT77 if I go with a LR manual swap. Did the early Discos come with an LT77?
David Harris
Expedition Leader
So the 1989-94 would have the LT77 then. Anyone swap one of these into an Auto Disco?
Nonimouse
Cynical old bastard
Yes, Disco's from '89 to '94 have LT77 boxes - S prefix I think, which was the dstrongest and quietest, D prefix being the earliest.
Ashcrofts give this as info:
"The manual boxes can be catagorised as "Long Stick" as fitted to the Defender and "Short Stick" as fitted to the Disco.
If your serial number starts with any of the following then you have a longstick : 50A, 51A, 52A, 56A, 60A, 61A.
If your serial number starts with any of the following then you have a shortstick : 53A, 54A, 55A, 57A, 59A, 63A.
The longstick boxes come with the top casting that the gearlever and turret bolt to but you will need to remove the following from the old unit : the bellhousing and dowels, transfer case dowels, gearlever and turret and diff lock pivot bolt if fitted.
The shortstick boxes come with remote top assembly with reverse switch fitted but you will need to swap over the bellhousing & dowels, transfer case dowels, extension gearstick and diff lock pivot bolt."
I have never fitted a 300Tdi to an LT77 but I have driven a couple. Nice drive. Not as refined as the R380 nor as quiet but it does the job.
I have fitted a 300Tdi (and one or two ther oil burners) to the LT85. This is a nice box though noisy as it gets older and massively strong.
As for a Disco 'box change. It would be easier and cheaper to go R380. All the bits are off the shelf. If you look after the box it will look after you. Just don't expect big miles from any LR box
Ashcrofts give this as info:
"The manual boxes can be catagorised as "Long Stick" as fitted to the Defender and "Short Stick" as fitted to the Disco.
If your serial number starts with any of the following then you have a longstick : 50A, 51A, 52A, 56A, 60A, 61A.
If your serial number starts with any of the following then you have a shortstick : 53A, 54A, 55A, 57A, 59A, 63A.
The longstick boxes come with the top casting that the gearlever and turret bolt to but you will need to remove the following from the old unit : the bellhousing and dowels, transfer case dowels, gearlever and turret and diff lock pivot bolt if fitted.
The shortstick boxes come with remote top assembly with reverse switch fitted but you will need to swap over the bellhousing & dowels, transfer case dowels, extension gearstick and diff lock pivot bolt."
I have never fitted a 300Tdi to an LT77 but I have driven a couple. Nice drive. Not as refined as the R380 nor as quiet but it does the job.
I have fitted a 300Tdi (and one or two ther oil burners) to the LT85. This is a nice box though noisy as it gets older and massively strong.
As for a Disco 'box change. It would be easier and cheaper to go R380. All the bits are off the shelf. If you look after the box it will look after you. Just don't expect big miles from any LR box
antisoshal
New member
So I'm trying to sift and concatenate all of the important info out of 12 pages of stuff. I am going to be converting a rust free 95 D1 to diesel in the next year (I meaning I'm paying someone to do it because I actually want to drive it, not ask for advice on forums about how to repair my retarded mechanics). I plan on using the included D2 transfer case (with the locker installed) and would like an auto trans.
Land Rover Imports sells complete engine packages for both the 300TDi and TD5. I see no mention of auto trans on their site, but given they are sold that way outside of the USA I'm assuming they can provide either auto or manual. I'm also assuming the stock auto can't be used without being modified significantly for diesel shift points.
It sounds like if I want to leave the transfer case alone I should go with 4:11 front and rear gearing?
I'm partial to the idea of using a TD5, but I'm also a bit skeptical of using an engine that there probably isn't more than 150 of in the country at this point. Seems like a recipe for long part waits should something break. 300TDi is of course more common, but it seems like its a bit under powered if I need a vehicle that can cruise at 80mph and go from 700ft to 14,000ft above sea level in a span of a few days.
I've seen mention that TD5's have issues with bio-diesel and SVO. I understand the bio-diesel issue because they leave too much methanol in the fuel in many cases, and the PH of the end fuel is a bit low and causes corrosion. Why would a TD5 have problems with properly heated SVO though? I'm talking well filtered and heated, not syrupy fry oil run through a coffee filter.
Reading the info about the Allison turbos and inter coolers seems like they could make the difference in favor for the 300TDi, if I read right.
Any info would be helpful. I'm trying to gather all the possible info I can so I can make the most educated decision.
Land Rover Imports sells complete engine packages for both the 300TDi and TD5. I see no mention of auto trans on their site, but given they are sold that way outside of the USA I'm assuming they can provide either auto or manual. I'm also assuming the stock auto can't be used without being modified significantly for diesel shift points.
It sounds like if I want to leave the transfer case alone I should go with 4:11 front and rear gearing?
I'm partial to the idea of using a TD5, but I'm also a bit skeptical of using an engine that there probably isn't more than 150 of in the country at this point. Seems like a recipe for long part waits should something break. 300TDi is of course more common, but it seems like its a bit under powered if I need a vehicle that can cruise at 80mph and go from 700ft to 14,000ft above sea level in a span of a few days.
I've seen mention that TD5's have issues with bio-diesel and SVO. I understand the bio-diesel issue because they leave too much methanol in the fuel in many cases, and the PH of the end fuel is a bit low and causes corrosion. Why would a TD5 have problems with properly heated SVO though? I'm talking well filtered and heated, not syrupy fry oil run through a coffee filter.
Reading the info about the Allison turbos and inter coolers seems like they could make the difference in favor for the 300TDi, if I read right.
Any info would be helpful. I'm trying to gather all the possible info I can so I can make the most educated decision.
bobtail4x4
Adventurer
There are 154 diesel auto discoveries from 1992 to 2004 on ebay UK at the moment starting from £300
http://motors.shop.ebay.co.uk/Cars-Motorcycles-Vehicles-/9800/i.html?Fuel%2520Type=Diesel&Transmission=Automatic&Model%2520Year=2004%7C2003%7C2002%7C2001%7C2000%7C1999%7C1998%7C1997%7C1996%7C1995%7C1994%7C1993&_nkw=discov*&_trkparms=65%253A12%257C66%253A2%257C39%253A1%257C72%253A3133&rt=nc&_dmpt=Automobiles_UK&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_sop=2&_sc=1
so yes they built plenty:wings:
http://motors.shop.ebay.co.uk/Cars-Motorcycles-Vehicles-/9800/i.html?Fuel%2520Type=Diesel&Transmission=Automatic&Model%2520Year=2004%7C2003%7C2002%7C2001%7C2000%7C1999%7C1998%7C1997%7C1996%7C1995%7C1994%7C1993&_nkw=discov*&_trkparms=65%253A12%257C66%253A2%257C39%253A1%257C72%253A3133&rt=nc&_dmpt=Automobiles_UK&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_sop=2&_sc=1
so yes they built plenty:wings: