Any built 300tdi D1 owners here?

antisoshal

New member
And being in America, I can legally import or buy NONE of them. :(

So I'm building my own. I used to look at ebay and try to figure out schemes to get one over here. All of them resulted in a significant risk of losing all of my money and having to spend more to export the car or have it crushed. Now I just don't look.
 

bobtail4x4

Adventurer
I know you cannot import a complete car, but you can bring a kit of parts in,

you were asking if Landrover built many diesel autos, this was by way of an answer.
 

antisoshal

New member
I don't recall asking if they built many. I was stating that not many people in the USA have TD5's which makes me tentative to run one if I need service or parts in a timely manner. I know that outside the USA a HUGE percentage of Rovers were diesel equipped.
 

tdi-rick

New member
Interesting insight on the practical diff between the two. I've heard of R380's breaking down in the middle of nowhere. Might just have to think about going LT77 if I go with a LR manual swap. Did the early Discos come with an LT77?

There is a big difference in strength between an LT77 and a late model R380 though, ie. a 'K' or 'L' suffix box.

I asked Dave Ashcroft about the strength differences between 'J' and 'K/L' R380 'boxes once on another forum and in his opinion the K and L 'boxes are the strongest five speeds Land Rover ever used (including the LT85) with wider input and layshaft gears than the 'J' 'box, stronger mainshaft/stress raisers removed and a couple of bigger bearings introduced.
 

David Harris

Expedition Leader
There is a big difference in strength between an LT77 and a late model R380 though, ie. a 'K' or 'L' suffix box.

I asked Dave Ashcroft about the strength differences between 'J' and 'K/L' R380 'boxes once on another forum and in his opinion the K and L 'boxes are the strongest five speeds Land Rover ever used (including the LT85) with wider input and layshaft gears than the 'J' 'box, stronger mainshaft/stress raisers removed and a couple of bigger bearings introduced.

No doubt about the greater overall strength of the later R380, but what I was interested in here is that when an R380 does go, it is a catastrophic failure, whereas with the LT77, you still have the direct fourth gear, so can keep limping along until you can repair it.
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
190 is not hot, of course, as that is the correct temperature for the thermostat.
Only in theory.

Per the manual, factory thermostat is 88c = 190F and is supposed to be fully open no higher that 89C, or 192F.
I've found I have to go to a 180 to be fully open at 185-190 which falls in the range stated in the manual.

I guess in the UK thermostats are labeled for when they are fully open, and in the US when they start to open.
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
However, I have had the vanes jam. They coke up. And the actuator mechanism can seize if the car sits for a while. Eventually, my vanes sheared right off and went through the turbine.
Ha, interesting you should say that. That was my first thought when you, or whoever it was, brought up VNT turbos. I used to rebuild turbos and have seen the damage that happens when something is ingested, or fails in the compressor housing (which often also happens when something is ingested in the turbine housing as it knocks the turbine wheel out of balance and causes the compressor wheel to crash in to the housing).
Yes, wastegates can fail, but never seen one destroy a turbo when it did.

It's sort of like the mechanical vs. electronics argument.
People talk about electronics being more reliable, or no less likely to fail than mechanical, but it's one additional thing to fail (rarely, at least in Land Rovers, do the electronics reduce the number of mechanical components, they just change the controls of them and add more complexity).
For instance, electric windows, which was mentioned, in Discos you have one or two switches, 10-20 feet of wiring, relays, ECU's, multiple electrical connections and a motor to replace a splined shaft and handle. The actual operation of the window is basically the same inside the door.
I too have had manual windows fail, by the handle stripping off. Mole-grips were the answer.
From personal experience I can say that diagnosing and fixing an electric window issue takes a lot longer.
So yes, for me, the proper fix for a dead electric window is to convert them to manual.

And I love the sliding windows in my Series Rovers. :victory:
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
Been thinking along the lines of a timed low pressure oiler for when the engine is turned off...
That's one of the best, maybe the best, thing you can do to increase turbo life.
Coked up shafts and seals are probably the number one turbo killer.
A water cooled bearing housing is at the top too.
 
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syke

Adventurer
Diggin up an old but quite informative thread....

Long story short, I just blew up my 99 D1 v8. Wife gave the thumbs up on the diesel swap so it's game on.
Brother is an ase diesel tech with a full shop and tons of mechanical knowledge (5.9 12valve) and he is just chomping at the bit to do the conversion.

I have been reading none stop for the last few days. 300tdi/6.2na/Isuzu 2.8 etc. Quite a few options but at the end of the day I really do not want to reinvent the wheel. I would rather spend a few more bucks on a 300tdi/R380 swap then have to really fabricate some items to fit a non LR diesel in the D1.

I know it will cost me one arm and possibly both legs but if it's any consolation, I am able to save on the labor. Brother works for free. :sombrero:

I have gone round and round with just stuffing another v8 in the rover and going on down the road. That is completely doable and by far the cheapest. But at this point, I just really want a diesel. The swap really does not make any economical sense as far as I'm concerned. It just comes down to what you want and how much money do you want to spend.

I have been talking with a few importers and feel rather confident I can get a full 300tdi/R380/TC with all the fixings shipped to me.

I am not looking to break any land speed records so big hp/tq numbers don't matter to me. Not to mention I don't need to be swapping stronger axels anytime soon.
Just want a bare nuts basic setup with some decent mpg's and just go on down the road.

What do you guys think? Am I crazy? :) Any help or tips would be great. Thanks.
 

Ray Hyland

Expedition Leader
No doubt about the greater overall strength of the later R380, but what I was interested in here is that when an R380 does go, it is a catastrophic failure, whereas with the LT77, you still have the direct fourth gear, so can keep limping along until you can repair it.

If you have a low mileage R380 and want to swap it for my low mileage LT77 let me know.

:)

Chances of completely breaking the R380 are slim enough that I'd gladly go for the added comfort, lower heat, smoother shifting, lower noise, lower vibration, etc.
 

syke

Adventurer
Don't blame you. You know why I asked though, right?

I'm guessing because it is under powered and climbing i17 out of phx might be an all afternoon affair. :)
Even pulling i17 south out of the verde valley is a slow lane cruise with the v8. Granted it is a much shorter climb.

We drive a company truck for work.

Am I close? :)
 
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