Barn Door for JK factory hardtops

[jscherb]

I've done all of the Safari Cab work solo so far, including installing/removing it multiple times. It isn't too hard to do singlehandedly, but the roof panel is a bit awkward for one person to handle. Here's how I do it... I've hung a pair of Superstrut channels (available at Lowes) from my garage door rails, so I drive the Jeep into that bay, unbolt the roof, and hang it a few inches above the Jeep with chains. Once the roof is off, the rest of the modular components are very easily handled.

Once the Jeep is out from under the roof, if I want to move the roof elsewhere I can let it down to the floor using the chains.

 

[scramfan01]

My comments are the same as they have always been. "You do awesome work", and "I wish someone would start making a Safari top for my CJ-8 Scrambler".

 

[jscherb]

My comments are the same as they have always been. "You do awesome work", and "I wish someone would start making a Safari top for my CJ-8 Scrambler".

Thanks. A CJ-8 Safari Cab isn't too hard to do, one could be made in the TJ/LJ Safari Cab molds... unfortunately the company that's licensed my CJ/YJ/TJ Safari Cab design has decided only to make them for the TJ and LJ. Oh well. Maybe some day I'll make one, I still have a set of molds here.

 

[jscherb]

I started sewing a prototype skin for the soft barn door today. Since it's a prototype, I'm using fabric I had on hand instead of the more expensive soft top material, so that's why it's camo. This material is actually perfectly fine for this application, except that camo isn't the look I'm going for. I only had time to get the basic shell started; it slides over the metal frame like a sock. It's still a bit loose, but the way it's sewn it's very easy to tighten it up, which I'll do tomorrow. In case you're wondering, the window is the last thing that gets done, and the window hole isn't cut out yet because having the fabric in one piece to stretch over the frame makes it easier to get a perfect fit, so first I'll get the shell fitting perfectly and tightened up with zippers and velcro and then I'll cut the window hole.

 

[jscherb]

The basic shell of the prototype soft barn door is complete, here is it sitting in the rear door opening:

The ensure a tight fit, I secured the top and sides with zippers - pretty much all soft upper doors (except the JK factory uppers) use only velcro to secure the skins in place, but I wanted something with a more reliably tight and precise fit, so I used zippers.

There are a few minor fit adjustments I'll make, then the next step is to install the window in it.

 

[jscherb]

The soft barn door window under construction. The window itself is mostly done and the zipper is sewn around the perimeter. Next the bottom of the window gets sewn to the shell, then the outside part of the zipper gets sewn to the shell, and finally the window opening gets cut and hemmed. By leaving the cutting/hemming of the window opening until last, the least amount of wrinkles will be introduced into the finished work. Sewing curved zippers isn't fun, that's enough for today. Probably will finish it tomorrow.

 

[Comanche Scott]

This is pretty fun to follow along, because both my friend and I have canopy projects that need to be sewn.
What kind of sewing machine are you using?

 

[jscherb]

This is pretty fun to follow along, because both my friend and I have canopy projects that need to be sewn.
What kind of sewing machine are you using?

My sewing machine is a Janome New Home Double Duty, vintage 1963. The "Double Duty" part of the name is because it was intended as a heavy-duty home/medium duty commercial machine. It was my father's, he bought it used about 30 years ago to make canvas parts for the 36' trawler he built in the backyard. It's from the era when sewing machines didn't have plastic parts. They just keep on going, they're regularly on eBay and they're a bargain if you're doing canvas work for Jeeps or boats... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-JANOME-...Industrial-Sewing-Machine-JAPAN-/301871991329

 

[Comanche Scott]

Wow! that is a nice machine. Thanks for the link! :beer:
My buddy borrowed a friend's Pfaff130. I'm afraid to use it, as it looks like a perfect antique, and I wouldn't want to damage it.

 

[mhiscox]

My sewing machine is a Janome New Home Double Duty, vintage 1963. . . . They just keep on going, they're regularly on eBay and they're a bargain if you're doing canvas work for Jeeps or boats...

The amount of useful information in this thread is huge, Jeff, and I appreciate all the time and energy you put into it.

And the recommendation of a specific sewing machine was just what I needed. If it's good enough for Jeff, etc. . . . Thanks.

 

[jscherb]

The amount of useful information in this thread is huge, Jeff, and I appreciate all the time and energy you put into it.

And the recommendation of a specific sewing machine was just what I needed. If it's good enough for Jeff, etc. . . . Thanks.

That's my logic - if it was good enough for my father to sew all of the canvas for his trawler, I figured it's good enough for me . They typically sell for $100-$150 on eBay, the one I linked to was on the high end, but it did include free shipping, which for a machine this heavy is a few bucks.

Glad you find the info in the thread helpful.

 

[jscherb]

Finished up the sewing on the prototype soft barn door skin this morning. Clockwise from top left - outside view window rolled up, outside view rolled down, inside view rolled down, inside view rolled up.

As soon as I can borrow the JK from Heather for a bit, I'll install it and see how it works out on the Jeep.

 

[Comanche Scott]

I was thinking about the whole top, versus bottom roll up window deal. Since this opens with the rear gate, I like the idea of it rolling down.
Would be very easy to add a mesh screen for more air without the bugs.

 

[jscherb]

I was thinking about the whole top, versus bottom roll up window deal. Since this opens with the rear gate, I like the idea of it rolling down.
Would be very easy to add a mesh screen for more air without the bugs.

I'm pretty sure having it roll down was the right way to go. When it's rolled down, it isn't in the line of sight out the back - most of it is in front of the spare. If it rolled up, it would have to hang down at least a bit, which definitely would be in the line of sight. Plus you can just let it hang down the inside of the tailgate if you don't feel like rolling it tightly and strapping it in place.

It probably wouldn't be too hard to modify the design a bit to also have a removable screen for when the vinyl window was rolled down.

Here's a larger photo of it rolled down and snapped in place.

I may need to add another strap in the center, it looks like it's sagging just a bit.

 

[JCDriller]

You're doing a great job with this. While the fiberglass isn't, the soft frame is completely within my skill set. Would you be ok if I borrowed your idea for personal usage in the months to come? I'd rather buy one, but I know your plans aren't set in stone yet.