givemethewillys
Jonathan Chouinard
very cool, keep up the great work.
Blender, My LX450/FZJ80 + FJ45esk + GM + Land Rover crazy concoction
- Thread starter Metcalf
- Start date
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Thanks guys. If anyone has a lead on any lx470/100 series stock rear springs, with or without AHC, please let me know. The current LX450 stock rear springs are looking like they are going to be a bit too tall for my taste, but close enough to build out the rest of the car....
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Have you tried OME? They have a HUGE spring selection.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
They are too stiff/tall. I need something about 20" tall but only about a 100lb/in spring rate.
vwhammer
Adventurer
Old Man Emu has a couple of part numbers that are close to that number.
Part# 2615 is 20.07 inches (510mm) and has a 120 lb spring rate.
Part# 2626 is 19.68 inches (500mm) and has the same 120 lb rate.
I was eyeballing these springs for some time before I made the decision to run air bags.
I know that's not 100 lbs but its close.
I think the 07+ wrangler rear springs are 100lbs but I don't think they are anywhere near that height.
EDIT: For the record, the part#'s above are Jeep springs not Land Cruiser springs.
Some mods may be required to make them fit but you can probably swing it.
Part# 2615 is 20.07 inches (510mm) and has a 120 lb spring rate.
Part# 2626 is 19.68 inches (500mm) and has the same 120 lb rate.
I was eyeballing these springs for some time before I made the decision to run air bags.
I know that's not 100 lbs but its close.
I think the 07+ wrangler rear springs are 100lbs but I don't think they are anywhere near that height.
EDIT: For the record, the part#'s above are Jeep springs not Land Cruiser springs.
Some mods may be required to make them fit but you can probably swing it.
Last edited:
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
I would rather not mod the coil mounts, but thanks for looking more for me. The 80 chassis rear coils are a very large dia.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
It's taking me a few days to get the shop cleaned and reorgainized for the next phase of the project....
I also made an air power upgrade for my little garage fab setup. My little old $50 used Craftsman oil-less finally rotted out the tank. This seems to be a significant upgrade without being crazy expensive. It was on sale at Tractor Supply for Fathers Day weekend. It is a 3.7hp, 60 gallon, 11.5cfm@90psi, 155-125psi unit. It feels like light years ahead of what I had before.....
I also made an air power upgrade for my little garage fab setup. My little old $50 used Craftsman oil-less finally rotted out the tank. This seems to be a significant upgrade without being crazy expensive. It was on sale at Tractor Supply for Fathers Day weekend. It is a 3.7hp, 60 gallon, 11.5cfm@90psi, 155-125psi unit. It feels like light years ahead of what I had before.....
Ha! What a coincidence.
I bought the exact same air compressor this time last year during the fathers day sale.
I coupled it with a $465 plasma cutter that I got for $320 on amazon and a year later they are both going strong.
which plasma cutter was that? and what is the cut quality like?
vwhammer
Adventurer
I don't want to clutter up this thread too much with my ramblings.
I also ask that we not start a debate about this plasma cutter VS that plasma cutter but, since Metcalf has illustrated the value of some cheap tools, here is a little info on my "el cheapo supreme" plasma cutter.
The cutter I got was this one.
https://www.amazon.com/Lotos-LTP500...497837128&sr=8-3&keywords=lotos+plasma+cutter
All I can say is there is no way I would plunk down $1000 or $1500 for some of the smaller entry level cutters on the market.
I did a lot of research and was just about to pay $1300 for a plasma cutter when I came across this one in several "Best Plasma Cutter" lists on the web.
A lot of times they topped the "best cutter under $500" lists but several times they were in several "best entry level plasma cutter" lists and usually grouped in with cutters that were 3 to 5 times as much.
They were also usually in the top 3 or 4 of those lists.
Anyway the first thing I did when I got it was plug it into a 220 volt source (it can run on 110 with a plug sold separately) and cut a piece of 1/2 inch 1018 steel.
I will say you do have to move a much slower than you would with 1/8 or 1/4 inch steel but it still cuts 1/2 inch steel easily.
With a steady hand and/or a guide it effortlessly makes cuts in 1/4 inch steel.
I have used several plasma cutters from Miller and Lincoln and a couple from Hobart and this is easily as good as those and likely better.
I have not had a chance to try any of the others like Hypertherm or some of the others but I just can't see spending that kind of dough on a cutter when this one does what I need at a fraction of the cost.
If this one failed tomorrow I would not hesitate to buy another one.
Is this cutter for production or factory use? With it's 60% duty cycle, probably not.
But for the average Joe whipping up a bracket or two on the weekends or abusing it to cut up some old rusty bits it is the hot ticket.
I abused this thing and the air compressor for a couple of weeks last summer in 80 and 90 degree weather cutting a bunch of rusty and crusty brackets from several things.
The only issue I have had is from the tip coming loose and making it act weird but a quick tweak with my fingers to tighten it back up and all was good.
I think even to this day I have only used 2 or 3 of the consumable bits.
Not sure why the price was dropped when I bought mine.
I had it in the cart the night before at $465 and almost bought it on my phone while laying in bed but decided to wait for no good reason.
The next morning I got a notice saying that the price had changed so I checked and it was $320.
For that price I could not resist. It seemed worth the risk at that point.
It even came with another 5 consumables that I forgot about until after I paid another $65 for another 15 pack and went to put them in the cabinet and noticed the other 5.
Bottom line is, so far, this is well worth the money.
Ok that's all.
If there are any other questions please send me a message as not to derail this thread any more.
I also ask that we not start a debate about this plasma cutter VS that plasma cutter but, since Metcalf has illustrated the value of some cheap tools, here is a little info on my "el cheapo supreme" plasma cutter.
The cutter I got was this one.
https://www.amazon.com/Lotos-LTP500...497837128&sr=8-3&keywords=lotos+plasma+cutter
All I can say is there is no way I would plunk down $1000 or $1500 for some of the smaller entry level cutters on the market.
I did a lot of research and was just about to pay $1300 for a plasma cutter when I came across this one in several "Best Plasma Cutter" lists on the web.
A lot of times they topped the "best cutter under $500" lists but several times they were in several "best entry level plasma cutter" lists and usually grouped in with cutters that were 3 to 5 times as much.
They were also usually in the top 3 or 4 of those lists.
Anyway the first thing I did when I got it was plug it into a 220 volt source (it can run on 110 with a plug sold separately) and cut a piece of 1/2 inch 1018 steel.
I will say you do have to move a much slower than you would with 1/8 or 1/4 inch steel but it still cuts 1/2 inch steel easily.
With a steady hand and/or a guide it effortlessly makes cuts in 1/4 inch steel.
I have used several plasma cutters from Miller and Lincoln and a couple from Hobart and this is easily as good as those and likely better.
I have not had a chance to try any of the others like Hypertherm or some of the others but I just can't see spending that kind of dough on a cutter when this one does what I need at a fraction of the cost.
If this one failed tomorrow I would not hesitate to buy another one.
Is this cutter for production or factory use? With it's 60% duty cycle, probably not.
But for the average Joe whipping up a bracket or two on the weekends or abusing it to cut up some old rusty bits it is the hot ticket.
I abused this thing and the air compressor for a couple of weeks last summer in 80 and 90 degree weather cutting a bunch of rusty and crusty brackets from several things.
The only issue I have had is from the tip coming loose and making it act weird but a quick tweak with my fingers to tighten it back up and all was good.
I think even to this day I have only used 2 or 3 of the consumable bits.
Not sure why the price was dropped when I bought mine.
I had it in the cart the night before at $465 and almost bought it on my phone while laying in bed but decided to wait for no good reason.
The next morning I got a notice saying that the price had changed so I checked and it was $320.
For that price I could not resist. It seemed worth the risk at that point.
It even came with another 5 consumables that I forgot about until after I paid another $65 for another 15 pack and went to put them in the cabinet and noticed the other 5.
Bottom line is, so far, this is well worth the money.
Ok that's all.
If there are any other questions please send me a message as not to derail this thread any more.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Don't worry about posting good info like that. This thread needs more stuff anyways....
This cutter is on my radar lately....
https://www.amazon.com/AHP-AlphaCut...=1497840875&sr=8-1&keywords=ahp+plasma+cutter
It is the most affordable 110/220V machine that maxes at 60amps BUT also has a blow back start type system I believe.
This removes some of the limitations with using a cheap plasma if you wanted to grow into a cnc plasma table eventually without having to worry about shielding the electronics.
I've been very tempted by the Lotos stuff also just to give me a few more options in my little garage fab shop.
This cutter is on my radar lately....
https://www.amazon.com/AHP-AlphaCut...=1497840875&sr=8-1&keywords=ahp+plasma+cutter
It is the most affordable 110/220V machine that maxes at 60amps BUT also has a blow back start type system I believe.
This removes some of the limitations with using a cheap plasma if you wanted to grow into a cnc plasma table eventually without having to worry about shielding the electronics.
I've been very tempted by the Lotos stuff also just to give me a few more options in my little garage fab shop.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Gotta keep doing something.....
I got all the ribs for the upper rear window panel(s) bulb seals welded in place into the cage structure.
Now I need to make the corner gussets that will locate the panels along with some extra support for the cage junctions.
I have also been thinking more about if I should try to make some rear corner windows similar to some of the fj4x stuff to improve visibility when the panels are in place. Maybe heat forming some Lexan into a curve? Then hold it in place with some lock-channel gaskets?
There are a few other small projects with the tub to wrap up, but the other big one on my mind is the top panel. I think I am going to abandon my plan to try and make a complex curve factory type shape. I think I am going to end up doing something with some more simple curves, maybe even geometric in some ways, then weld a few of the panels together to form a decent top? I just don't want it to look terrible. It will be a bolt on panel so I can replace it later if I don't love it....
Other things on the list.....
-Extend the lower door post to the extended belt line. This also needs to have a new strike plate mount for the door latch. This can be welded in, but needs to match the top of the existing body....which is a pretty complex little shape.
-Make the upper door surrounds. I think the top of the door area will be welded into the cage structure. I have thought about trying to extend a heavier piece of material beyond the top edge to act like a rub rail. I am not sure if that would look ok.....but it would be nice if you leaned the top over into a rock or tree. The rear vertical surround might be a unit that bolts to the B-pillar upright so it can be removed. Kinda like a metal version of a jeep TJ door surround? That would allow a bit more visibility past the B-pillar....and elbow room when the upper part of the door is removed?
-Brake booster/master/pedal mount
-Steering column mount
-DBW gas pedal mount
Plenty to do.....
I got all the ribs for the upper rear window panel(s) bulb seals welded in place into the cage structure.
Now I need to make the corner gussets that will locate the panels along with some extra support for the cage junctions.
I have also been thinking more about if I should try to make some rear corner windows similar to some of the fj4x stuff to improve visibility when the panels are in place. Maybe heat forming some Lexan into a curve? Then hold it in place with some lock-channel gaskets?
There are a few other small projects with the tub to wrap up, but the other big one on my mind is the top panel. I think I am going to abandon my plan to try and make a complex curve factory type shape. I think I am going to end up doing something with some more simple curves, maybe even geometric in some ways, then weld a few of the panels together to form a decent top? I just don't want it to look terrible. It will be a bolt on panel so I can replace it later if I don't love it....
Other things on the list.....
-Extend the lower door post to the extended belt line. This also needs to have a new strike plate mount for the door latch. This can be welded in, but needs to match the top of the existing body....which is a pretty complex little shape.
-Make the upper door surrounds. I think the top of the door area will be welded into the cage structure. I have thought about trying to extend a heavier piece of material beyond the top edge to act like a rub rail. I am not sure if that would look ok.....but it would be nice if you leaned the top over into a rock or tree. The rear vertical surround might be a unit that bolts to the B-pillar upright so it can be removed. Kinda like a metal version of a jeep TJ door surround? That would allow a bit more visibility past the B-pillar....and elbow room when the upper part of the door is removed?
-Brake booster/master/pedal mount
-Steering column mount
-DBW gas pedal mount
Plenty to do.....
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Corner windows can be heat formed from polycarbonate, but be careful. Too much heat and it will crystalize the plastic and you'll either break it or it will show lots of tiny cracks.
"Extend the lower door post to the extended belt line." - you mean the lower corner where it curves back into the sill? Do you have a shrinker/stretcher? If so, make them out of a couple pieces bent and stretched into shape, then weld them together with the TIG. If you don't have a shrinker/stretcher...what's wrong with you? Just another tool to put on the list.
I wish I were there helping. This type of work is a lot of fun and very fulfilling.
"Extend the lower door post to the extended belt line." - you mean the lower corner where it curves back into the sill? Do you have a shrinker/stretcher? If so, make them out of a couple pieces bent and stretched into shape, then weld them together with the TIG. If you don't have a shrinker/stretcher...what's wrong with you? Just another tool to put on the list.
I wish I were there helping. This type of work is a lot of fun and very fulfilling.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
The small section of the stock opening at the rear of the door just needs raised to match the new structure. I'll get a pic tonight. It isn't terrible, but one of those little time killers for sure.
I have been reading up on heat forming some Lexan for a rear corner window. It seems possible. One attraction to adding the corner window is that then I only need to bend a few inches of the panel material vs like 20" if it was windowless.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
It is possible, but I would use the polycarbonate as it resists scratching better than standard clear plastic. It is stronger too.
Maybe in the ten years since I have last used it, things have changed...?
Maybe in the ten years since I have last used it, things have changed...?