+1000
Bolt-together fiberglass Jeep-tub trailer kit
- Thread starter jscherb
- Start date
+1000
loren85022
Explorer
For anyone who might want to remove their RTT every so often, you might consider mounting it to two cross rails slightly above the cover. RTT's have two c-channels that can be mounted (and removed) fairly easily. But you need a hand's worth of clearance to reach in and unbolt. This would also give you a bit more room to reach in to your trailer with the tailgate down.
For anyone with a kayak, you could extend the rack up above the RTT in the front and rear to allow the hull to clear. This might get a tad top heavy for anyone traversing a black diamond trail, but i bet it gets you to most watering holes.
Rails also make great locations for tying off or securing awnings, canopy poles, ropes, etc when the trailer is stationary.
Apologies for the crude photoshop hack.
For anyone with a kayak, you could extend the rack up above the RTT in the front and rear to allow the hull to clear. This might get a tad top heavy for anyone traversing a black diamond trail, but i bet it gets you to most watering holes.
Rails also make great locations for tying off or securing awnings, canopy poles, ropes, etc when the trailer is stationary.
Apologies for the crude photoshop hack.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Here's another way to get a rack on the trailer tub kit - this one uses Thule Artificial Rain Gutters bolted to the side panels, with backing plates inside to sandwich the fiberglass. It's got Thule Load Bars, and 4 Thule Bicycle Carriers.
This one's also got 24" tires, and the small inner fender option, and because the tires are smaller than those on the tow vehicle, a matching spare on the tongue.
This one's also got 24" tires, and the small inner fender option, and because the tires are smaller than those on the tow vehicle, a matching spare on the tongue.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
I did a preliminary trimming job on the new style tailgate and mounted the hardware today - here are a few photos of it installed on the tub.
First photo is with the stainless flush latch, and stainless aftermarket CJ hinges:
Next is with the black t-handle and black factory CJ hinges:
And here's what the inside looks like:
I need to do a little more final trimming and fitting, then I can paint the tailgate gloss black to match the tub. Also the weatherstrip isn't installed around the tailgate yet, I'll do that after it's painted.
I'm very happy with how this new design inner tailgate skin worked out - it set up perfectly as a side-swinging gate, but by drilling different holes in it, it can also be set up as a drop-down tailgate with two locking latches.
First photo is with the stainless flush latch, and stainless aftermarket CJ hinges:
Next is with the black t-handle and black factory CJ hinges:
And here's what the inside looks like:
I need to do a little more final trimming and fitting, then I can paint the tailgate gloss black to match the tub. Also the weatherstrip isn't installed around the tailgate yet, I'll do that after it's painted.
I'm very happy with how this new design inner tailgate skin worked out - it set up perfectly as a side-swinging gate, but by drilling different holes in it, it can also be set up as a drop-down tailgate with two locking latches.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
I shot the tent platform exterior with Raptor bed liner today, here's a photo:
I only did the parts that will be exposed to the elements, I left the rest done in the sealer/paint, that's why the part outside the tent mounting ring is bed liner, and the part inside the ring, which will be under the tent base, is still gloss black.
While I was set up for bed liner, I also shot the inside of the new side-swing tailgate:
Tomorrow I'll apply the weatherstrip to the platform and reinstall it and the tent on the trailer.
I only did the parts that will be exposed to the elements, I left the rest done in the sealer/paint, that's why the part outside the tent mounting ring is bed liner, and the part inside the ring, which will be under the tent base, is still gloss black.
While I was set up for bed liner, I also shot the inside of the new side-swing tailgate:
Tomorrow I'll apply the weatherstrip to the platform and reinstall it and the tent on the trailer.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Finishing up the tent platform today, adding the weatherstrip.
There are three areas I needed to weatherstrip.
1. Where the platform meets the top of the tub. I used 2"-wide x 3/16" thick EPDM "truck cap weatherstrip" from my local CarQuest store. It's wide enough to bend around the angle I put on the underside of the platform so one width covers the angled part and the top of the tub. I made narrow pie cuts in the strip to get it to conform nicely to the curves on the corners.
2. The top of the tailgate jamb. This is what the top of the tailgate seals against; I used a 1/2" wide "D bulb" weatherstrip here.
3. Where the bottom of the tent sits on the platform. I used 1/8" thick x 1" wide foam weatherstrip here.
There are three areas I needed to weatherstrip.
1. Where the platform meets the top of the tub. I used 2"-wide x 3/16" thick EPDM "truck cap weatherstrip" from my local CarQuest store. It's wide enough to bend around the angle I put on the underside of the platform so one width covers the angled part and the top of the tub. I made narrow pie cuts in the strip to get it to conform nicely to the curves on the corners.
2. The top of the tailgate jamb. This is what the top of the tailgate seals against; I used a 1/2" wide "D bulb" weatherstrip here.
3. Where the bottom of the tent sits on the platform. I used 1/8" thick x 1" wide foam weatherstrip here.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
There's a small plastics manufacturer in my town that I worked with on some parts for another project; I stopped by there the other day to ask them about the feasibility of making my StoreGate idea by vacuum-forming it from acrylic or ABS sheet plastic. I figured that might be more efficient than making it out of fiberglass, which is usually a one part per mold per day operation - by vacuum-forming, dozens could be made in a few hour production run.
They agreed that it would be a good application for vacuum-forming. I asked them if I made a form if they would mold some prototypes for me, and they agreed to that as well. Making a form is very similar to making a mold master for fiberglass, with a few differences:
- For vacuum-forming, the form needs to be strong enough to resist the vacuum suction pulling the hot plastic down.
- The surface won't have to have a perfect automotive-quality finish. For fiberglass, every imperfection gets perfectly reproduced in the part, but for vacuum-forming, most small surface irregularities won't be reproduced, especially since I'd have them mold these in a textured plastic.
- Lots of little holes need to be drilled in the master to provide the suction to pull the hot plastic into shape.
It sounds like a fun project, so I'll make up a master form and have them mold a few for me to test.
They did make one design suggestion... they thought I should add cupholder recesses into the top of the enclosure:
So maybe I'll add them
.
We also talked about the material for the door/trail table. In the drawing above, I've done it in diamondplate aluminum. They suggested the door could also be ABS or acrylic in the same color as the enclosure. They also suggested it could be done in clear acrylic, then you could see what's inside. I thought that was a security risk and also the acrylic would scratch easily when used as a table.
Another suggestion I've gotten is not to have a door on it at all, just put a stretch net across the opening. I might make up a test version like that too.
The enclosure will be about 27" wide and about 13" tall (I'll basically make it as large as I can make it so it fits on both the smooth fiberglass tailgate and the Wrangler factory tailgate). I was thinking of making the box 4.5" deep - how does that depth sound?
Any thoughts about other features or details for the StoreGate before I go ahead and make a master form?
They agreed that it would be a good application for vacuum-forming. I asked them if I made a form if they would mold some prototypes for me, and they agreed to that as well. Making a form is very similar to making a mold master for fiberglass, with a few differences:
- For vacuum-forming, the form needs to be strong enough to resist the vacuum suction pulling the hot plastic down.
- The surface won't have to have a perfect automotive-quality finish. For fiberglass, every imperfection gets perfectly reproduced in the part, but for vacuum-forming, most small surface irregularities won't be reproduced, especially since I'd have them mold these in a textured plastic.
- Lots of little holes need to be drilled in the master to provide the suction to pull the hot plastic into shape.
It sounds like a fun project, so I'll make up a master form and have them mold a few for me to test.
They did make one design suggestion... they thought I should add cupholder recesses into the top of the enclosure:
So maybe I'll add them
.We also talked about the material for the door/trail table. In the drawing above, I've done it in diamondplate aluminum. They suggested the door could also be ABS or acrylic in the same color as the enclosure. They also suggested it could be done in clear acrylic, then you could see what's inside. I thought that was a security risk and also the acrylic would scratch easily when used as a table.
Another suggestion I've gotten is not to have a door on it at all, just put a stretch net across the opening. I might make up a test version like that too.
The enclosure will be about 27" wide and about 13" tall (I'll basically make it as large as I can make it so it fits on both the smooth fiberglass tailgate and the Wrangler factory tailgate). I was thinking of making the box 4.5" deep - how does that depth sound?
Any thoughts about other features or details for the StoreGate before I go ahead and make a master form?
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Yes, I have designed it to fit the factory Wrangler tailgate as well as my fiberglass tailgate.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
I got a comment about the StoreGate blocking the tailgate vents on later model Wranglers... that's been part of the design from the beginning, but since I the initial prototypes I'll be building are intended for testing on trailer tailgates, these first ones won't need the vent holes.
Great work!
I almost feel ashamed to make any suggestions on your work / design since everything you make turns out so nice, but... maybe the vents could be placed on the bottom of the Storegate to make it easier to keep out the elements. It would also allow it to drain more freely if something like a water bottle leaks. I'll certainly add this item to my wishlist along with the trailer tub kit and exogate.
I almost feel ashamed to make any suggestions on your work / design since everything you make turns out so nice, but... maybe the vents could be placed on the bottom of the Storegate to make it easier to keep out the elements. It would also allow it to drain more freely if something like a water bottle leaks. I'll certainly add this item to my wishlist along with the trailer tub kit and exogate.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Please, I want your comments , that's why I post these things - to get your ideas and suggestions to improve on what I'm doing. That's a good thought about the vents, thanks.