Budget build on an old Roadtrek

[zip]

My previous van was a ‘03 Ford E350 SMB RB50 Q4WD pop top.
I decided to replace it with a van that had a fixed top, longer van, and I no longer wanted the RB 50 type set up.
I decided to go with the Roadtrek, on the Chevrolet 3500 chassis.
I generally only camp in BLM, and just wanted to keep ability to go down rutted roads.
The biggest issue with the Roadtrek is that it is low, real low. You can’t even open the door and not hit the curb at your local supermarket.

 

[zip]

First stop was Weldtec, for their 5 inch lift.

 

[Herbie]

Subscribed!

This should be cool. Agreed that the RT's generally are belly-dragging, so you gotta be a bit careful there, but the interior layouts are generally good for a couple of people.

I looked at them for my family, but really on the "Versatile" would work for us since I'm not willing to have a bed setup that blocks access to the side doors. (3rd passenger)

 

[whith]

Nice! Drop the side skirts and some decent all terrains and you're in business. Any idea if it has the G80 in the rear? Very helpful if so and I've found can get you a long way in dry weather if you have decent clearance.

 

[Herbie]

I'll let Zip confirm, but my understanding of the Roadtrek construction is that those skirts would be non-trivial to remove - there's a whole substructure there that includes a lot of storage and camper items that have been slung low under the chassis floor.

 

[zip]

I didn't want to spend a ton of money on a older vehicle that had 100K plus miles on it, and would never have as high ground clearance as my former SMB Ford E350.
I removed the panels on the doors, that served no purpose but aesthetics.
There is a ton of crap underneath the vehicle, that can't be removed.
It is a RV.
Water, grey and black water tanks, a generator, storage, and coach batteries.
Weldtec stated they could give me a full 5" lift front and rear.
Well,,,,a little doubtful of that claim, but,,,they delivered. Full 5" lift, front and rear.

 

[zip]

 

[zip]

I plasti dipped the stock Roadtrek wheels, but will be upgrading the wheels/tires to what I believe will be 285/70/17s.
Weldtec sways they will fit, with minor trimming of the front fenders.

 

[zip]

Nice! Drop the side skirts and some decent all terrains and you're in business. Any idea if it has the G80 in the rear? Very helpful if so and I've found can get you a long way in dry weather if you have decent clearance.

Would my VIN tell me if I have the G80? If not, I would imagine I have your traditional 3.73.

 

[scottrinne]

looks great; I look forward to seeing more!

 

[RVflyfish]

The G80 code will be on the RPO sticker, which looks like this...

I think most often they're on the driver's door (though not on my Astro), and though I just read they're sometimes on one of the plastic storage covers in the rear of Express vans.

Once you find yours, here's a great decoder list I just found. https://rparts-sites.s3.amazonaws.com/dec399b0838336997484042ed2af1004/design/rpoCodes.pdf

 

[zip]

I really appreciate some input on what I should do about my old glazed over headlights. Is there any aftermarket replacement that I can put in there that won’t break the bank, but give me more light?

 

[Bikersmurf]

Quick solution, ‘Autosol’ will remove the have in a few minutes per light.

Autosol.com

Autosol.com

www.autosol.com

Although it’ll come back after a year or two, it can easily be cleaned off again. In extreme cases, if they have been clear coated, the local detailing shop has told me the sand off the clear coat with progressively finer paper and then buff with compound and finish with a with a quality wax.

I’ve also power buffed them with wax that has a mild abrasive with good results. I usually use Autosol because it’s fast and easy to use by hand. Waxing afterwards would likely extend the time before it oxidized again, but I’ve yet to use both.

Philips XULED were about 10x brighter than the Hella H4 bulbs I replaced with them. In comparison, the Halogen lights look off next to the LED ones. Unlike cheap LED bulbs, the Philips still have a crisp clean cutoff line the Halogen bulbs they replaced.

I know there are other great LED bulbs… just don’t buy cheap ones. I returned the first LED bulbs I bought because they were garbage threw less light than the Halogen bulbs they replaced, and weren’t focused. On low beam, with the cheaper LEDs, I couldn’t see far enough down the road to see where I’m going.

 

[Bikersmurf]

At 7am:
Philips XULED in glass Hella euro pattern housing.


Hella H4 halogen in glass Hella euro pattern housing.

Against the garage at night:

Hella H4 vs $50 (cheap) LED H4 replacement.

 

[scottrinne]

budget build:

if you don’t want to wet sand and polish your headlights, then you can buy some new cheap headlights on eBay.

also, for the cost of a diod (under a dollar), you can wire the relays so your headlights stay on when your brights are engaged.