Build - Frontier with ARE DCU topper

Reflection time. I welcome the commentary of others and I examine where I am with this build.

I'm building what is essentially a dedicated camping platform. An RV that looks like a Frontier. I'm generally trying to keep it looking stock. I'm not interested in a lot of setup at a campsite. Put out a chair and start a fire is all.

The Truck - 13 Frontier SV
Doing great. Mostly. I've had trouble working on it. Everything seems ... harder than it should be. No real space around the battery. No good access to fuses under the hood or inside ... oh my journeys with add a fuse. Recall, I'm working in the common parking garage under my building ... where the HOA doesn't want me working on it. With tools I keep in my condo. This ups the difficulty level in every project. Nissan seems weird. They make a great truck. Its super reliable. It's inexpensive. And yet they seem to hate marketing it. Or, maybe it's just my 13 since the later models have that Holy Grail underdash accessory cable available.

MX Cap DONE
This has worked out fairly well. It was probably the better choice than the fiberglass one I wanted. Lighter, stronger. The front gap is larger than I would like, aesthetically, but, also, I'm thinking of taking advantage of that to mount some antennas on swivels in order to keep the clean look. I do still need to nibble more out out of out taillight cutout holes. They are still a pain to get to. In retrospect I would not have gotten the back windows. Windows in a cap are, I think, useless. The airflow from the windoors is nice, but, my powered roof vent should do the same thing when I get it in. The slider window in the front is useless. It doesn't match up with the Frontiers cap window for more than about six inches. It's 1" tubing, so I insulted it with 1" R6. Works great down to about 30 degrees with just a normal blanket. Aluminum cap, high but not the highest. This is the correct choice for what I am doing.

Bedrug for insulation/feet purposes
Meh. I ended up putting down some thin paneling on the floor and covering it in some floor vinyl. It cleans easy and the paneling provides a flat surface ... which is probably the more important of the things. I put some outdoor carpet on the sides. Works good enough.

KO2's
Working fine. A good choice, I think, of quality and availability. I still need to replace my spare.

Windshield patch
I can still see it, but it hasn't gotten worse. I assume this is as good as it gets.

Surface scratches
I did a **** job on the doors. And the hood still has a few small rust dings. And the passenger side is torn up from tangling with a pillar in my parking garage. Err, I mean a Grizzley in Alaska. I want to get it fixed. We'll see.

Bluetooth Stereo and IPAD mount
I bought a cheap unit, only caring about bluetooth and a monitor for the backup cam I added. It works great since I only use it for the backup cam and bluetooth to my phone for music and google maps directions. . In fact, the bluetooth is better than on my old 16 Escape or my 22 Wrangler. It connects fine all the time. The IPAD mini is on a RAM magnetic mount hooked up to the top tray. It works ok. I'm starting to think again about finding/making a headunit thing so that the ipad can sit in the headunit space. We shall see ...

Magnetic window screens.
Disaster. Don't hold at all. I guess I could have spent a fortune on stronger magnets. Anyway, switched to velcro. It's ok. The windoor struts get in the way. I think I should remove them, mount the screens, and then remount them over the screens. That would eliminate the gaps in the screens at those points ... the the cost he screens no longer being fully removable. I'm not sure I need them to be, though?

Backup Camera
It's fine. Works great. CHeap *** unit.

Sonar
I still miss the beepy beeps. I am probably though not going to do this.

U shaped platform with yacht table.
The yacht table just isn't meeting my hopes and dreams. It doesn't slide up/down to become a table./bed platform, easily at all. I can't seem to figure out a better solution that raises/lowers easily and remains stable when up. The bed ... ug. Ok, so, prototyping in 2x2's was the right thing to do. And, maybe, the 80/20 was a good idea until I get the thing complete. But, also, Angle Aluminum would have been cheaper. And, with those brazing rods, held better. I'm dealing with continual nuts/bolts shaking apart, even with blue locktite. I WILL braze it together, once I get the rest of the build complete and I'm sure things are not changing. But, also, things have not changed for awhile now. Anyway. Brazing.

Clam
I got the 6'. It fits insidethe cap on the floor down the center aisle. I think I should have gotten at least one size smaller. Also, the clam has now broken in two places, with just some light use. It was meant to be outside shade/rain shelter. It works for that, but also, is too big in its largest size, I think. Great for group campouts and too much of a pain for two people? Which is weird because it IS a 30 second setup. There's some cognitive dissonance here. Again, I'm avoiding an awning in order to keep a clean look ... and I don't think it will help in light/medium rain.

Bike Hitch
So yeah, I have the hitch on. I keep a recovery point on it most of the time and a ball in the backseat in case I need it. I'm starting to second guess carrying a bike though. I'm not sure I'll use it enough, even though I love biking. I'd need to switch bikes for the rougher gravel/dirt roads, which will be expensive. I'll probably drag the carrier as I drive places due to the rear departure angle. And, it looks like I'm camping when I carry it. I may just end up renting bikes more? A quandry!

Roof Rack
I will probably spend some cash to get one mounted to the cab instead of to the cap. Maybe a clamp on, though? I'm just looking to put some lighter recovery stuff on top. Maybe chairs. Maybe extra gas ... which would help some range anxiety issues. I've seen a few setups where it looks like the roof rack boxes are "hidden" by the rack ... without the rack looking HUGE. I like that low profile concept. Again, clean look. Paying a grand or more kind of galls me ... but also I'm getting used to the idea. heh One of my big projects

100k service
Not done yet I'm at 97k

Tints
Probabaly not getting this done.

Fluid FIlm
Did this the first year. DIdn't do it the second winter. Just didn't drive it in winter. :) The frame was rust free when I bought it so I'd like to keep it that way until I really start using it hard.

Wind Deflector
Because the cap sticks up over the cab. Maybe I'll do something once I get the rack on the cab. I'd still ike a cleaner look, and it HAS to impact MPG, right?

Roof Vent
This is absolutely coming to the cap. It will be a pain, since I've got it insulated and covered in a headliner, but its going on. I always feel like I'm going to suffocate without the windoors open. Ventilation, fresh air, and ... maybe ... positive air pressure when driving to keep the dust out? That would be nice. One of m y big projects.

Alternator Charging
Done. 30 amp DC-DC charger to a Lithium 100 amp hour battery. Manual shutoffs for when its before freezing. I've got two lights and a yacht fan hooked up, as well as one of the front seat 12v/usb charger stations. I cut the ends off and hooked it up to the rear battery fuse panel I put in. Fun fact: some laptops can now not charge on 12v adapters. I shouldn't need that beefy of one anyway.

Fridge Cooler
This will go on the backseat behind the driver on a small shelf. I'm getting a very small one. Like, a half or third a cubic foot small. Like 12 liters or so. Just enough for some leftovers. It will be powered by the cap battery, so, I'll need to run wires back from the cap in to the cab. One of the big things I still need to do.

Insulate Cap
Done. R6. Works great. Headliner looks fine. Some repairs sometimes with the liner to keep the trim glued on. Looks nice, which is what I wanted.

Spare Tire
Yeah. I should do this. It's just spending money. I don't need to figure things out. That's nice.

Compressor
I'm carrying a portable unit. I want a mounted unit. I'd like to mount it "outside". In the hood (Ha! Fat chance ...) or under the body. (FUD about water/dirt/mud) It may get ounte din side the cap in some dead space. IDK. One of the big things I still need to do.

Recovery Hooks
Done, thanks to the wam winch mount up front and the tow hitch on back. They are fine,

Porta Potty/pop up shower house/shovel
Yeah, so, I carry these in the back seat. They have never been used, although I used the shovel one morning. These will move to the roof rack boxes, I think.

Hitch wiring
Done, but I should test it
 
Better Shocks/Lift/Weight
This is likely to be the last major thing I do, once the weight has settled in and I'm done adding stuff. I'm going aluminum where possible for things, which is keeping me light, but I should hit the cat scales soon to see how I'm doing. I'm sure I'm still under the payload weight. Anyway, I blew out two sets of shocks on my Escape on washboard, so I'm interested in some higher performance ones, I think ... that still have good availability when once goes bad. And, maybe, parabolic springs in the back at the same time. That should be a weight reduction and performance improvement. I'd like to do this myself, but ... I just know it won't go right. I'm still struggling with a lift. An inch? I'm not going to get larger tires. Period. So why? Maybe an inch or so if its convenient, but I don't think it's a priority. One of my big projects.

Skid Plates
Got everything but the gas skid. I keep checking the junkyard sites near me every morning. Nothing in the last two years. AGain, this is just a "spend money" thing so I might just buy asfir aluminum one during a "I dont want to think about **** this month" month.

Hud/Digital Speedo
Meh. I've got torque, for the IPAD Mini. I'm not using it. Also, the speedo shows me going about three to four miles faster than I actually am, I think. What I REALLY want is distance to empty. The anxiety, out in the wilderness miles from a gas station, is very real.

Sliders
Maybe? Probably. I think this is another thing where I just have to spend the money. Buy the weld it kit and have someone weld it up ... since I live in an apartment condo and dont know how to weld. If I don't do this it will be weight related.

Winch
WAM mount and Badlands 9k at a steal. I need to switch it to synthetic line.

Rear Locker
Nope. Not gonna happen. And I'm ok with that.

Solar
Almost certainly not gonna happen. The DC_DC charger works great when I'm driving.

Remote Start
Maybe? I don't think I see a need for it?

Trade Escape for Miata
I gave the Escape to my son when he moved to Fort Wayne for his first job. I was gonna buy a miata, but then though that maybe I would be making a statement since my girlfriend has two kids. I got a 2dr wrangler softtop instead and use it like a miata. A run around fun car. I'll selel it in about 23 months ... for what I paid for it it looks like.


Propane
I'm thinking a 5# tank in the cap, in the rear door corner. Maybe a 2x4 or 2x2 under it to hold some weight and straps to keep it from falling over. With an alarm hardwired in, of course. I might also hang a propane catalytic heater in the same corner for SUPER cold night? Idk. The lithium was sized for a 12v heated mattress pad. One of my big projects

Mesh to Grill/Pull Light Fuse
I don't even know why I wanted to do these.

Rear Drawer
I wasn't going to do one. I was going to use boxes under the bed. That changed fast. They don't work. The drawer does, but it made out of MDF. I want to build it again using angle aluminum and those brazing rods. As is, it's one the heaviest things in the truck, by far. It slides ok with my low-friction plastic on sheet metal sliders underneath.

Water
I want a tank under the truck for potable water. With a faucet in the rear of the cap. And a filter and pump attached to it. I may settle for a unit inside the truck. This is my next big project, I think.

Storage
I don't know. The cap has a lot less than I imagined it would. I'm trying to keep the backseat relatively "clean." I'm not sure that's gonna be possible. There's just little room for clothes at this point. Or even groceries. I need to make better space under the passenger bed side and in the dead space between the drawer and the side of the truck. I just don't know how yet. The traditional method, I think, is to just stuff **** in.

New Things

GMRS/Ham
I've got a handheld Baofeng HAM. It's a pain to use for GMRS. And it's AC charged though a DC charger is available. I think, sometimes, about putting in a GMRS unit, hidden. Which then leads me to "then why not put in a full HAM unit?" I don't know. The midlands GMRS has all the controls on the hand unit. Hidden/clean look and easy privacy channels is what I think I need. Sometimes I think about a CB also. I'm an idiot. I don't know what I'm doing here. I shoud probabally just learn to program the baofeng for GMRS privacy channels better. I'm not looking for a lot of range here. Just enough to be polite in a group run and maybe listen in for boredom purposes.

Rearview MIrror
Mine don't work no more because of cap. I think I want one with a rearview camera display.. And an integrated front dashcam, with record. And temp/compass. Homelink would be icing on the cake. Anyway,I may look at this.

Interior Fuse Panel
I might install a new fuse panel in/under/near the glove box. This would be just for accessories, with a wire coming from the battery. I think, maybe, also, a relay or some such for ignition triggers as well? I'd love that bluesea split unit ... but I want half ignition triggered ... in an easy way. Which doesnt seem to exist.

Exterior Lights
No, not for offroading. I just ordered the fog kit, but I don't think I'm putting on lights up front for driving off road. I might want one in the back, to illuminate the camspsite. But, also, I've got a rechargeable thing that's magnetic and can hang, a worklight. Klein. It works ok. But I'd like a permament one. I jjust don't want to mess up my clean look.

Cell Booster
WeWork, i think, is a name brand? I'd like to get one, I think. Powered off the cap battery, with the antenna on a swivel between the cap and cab?
 
I've completed a mount of a Viair 88p under the hood. This is based around a mod a guy did on the ClubFrontier forum: https://www.clubfrontier.org/threads/engine-bay-mounted-air-compressor.349451/#post-3718111

I'm just a dude doing my best here. No real tools, no ability to fab, and working in a dim parking garage that I'm not supposed to be working in, per HOA rules. Combined with the tight working space in the Frontier and the lack of bolt on stuff for it, I have some challenges to overcome with nearly every project.

think he drilled a hole through two pieces of the sheet metal to run a long bolt to the muffler clamp. That wasn't going to work for me, so I put a hole in the muffler clamp (as I assume he did) and put a nut and bolt through it in to the existing sheet metal hole on a vertical support, with some blue locktite. I couldn't really crank down on it because I couldnt get to the rear nut well. Oh, also, I had to open up the airbox to get my long screwdriver (no stubbies!) to tighten the screw from the clamp in to the sheet metal. Joy. Whatever will be will be; the future belongs to me. And if it falls off then I don't think it will hit anything in a bad way and THEN I'll figure out to drill through the sheet metals. :) Did I mention I bought three muffler clamps, because I couldn't drill through two of them with my home drill?

The ubolt part of the clamp wasn't going to work either. I couldnt get at the nuts to tighten them down. One of them anyway. It MIGHT have worked if I had offset the hole I drilled in the clamp by an inch or half an inch or so and gone through the grill with a socket extension. If I had a deep socket. Which I don't.

So I used two of the metal clamp parts (since I had three ...) and bought some bolts (4" I think.) But, now I couldnt feed one of them through from behind. I eventually managed to feed one in easily, and then by bending the clamp a little I "spun" the muffler clamp bolted to the sheet metal around 180 degrees, putting it in the hard to reach position and just fed the other side in easily again. None of which would have been an issue if I had fed it through before I bolted the clamp on the sheet metal. But, while it would spin, the locktite seemed to be doing its work and the nut would NOT come off when I tried to take off the camp to feed it through. Anyway, I got it mounted in, using an old wrench set to turn the nuts (no deep socket!) and fed in my vise grips to hold the other end.

Next up, running the power to battery for it and then running the hose to a mount on my winch carrier. I'm sure both will go absolutely smoothly. Then a backup rearview and headless HAM install.

Not mentioned: dropping multiple nuts, sockets, wrenches and lights down in to the bay that I had to fish out.
 

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Wired up the electrical ... without seeming to have any issues. Once I bought terminals to fit the battery bolts. This seems ... unusual to me.

Anyway, the Viair 88p has a little LED next to the power switch. It comes on when the unit is plugged in. Not on, but simply plugged in. (Which is normally attached to the battery with its battery clamps.) Since I'm hardwiring mine, it's always going to be plugged in. So it's always going to be on. I suspect the power draw is too minimal to worry about, but, still, I opened up the unit and pulled out the two wires that go to the small circuit board with the LED on it. This is, it appears, the ONLY electronics on the whole unit. Interesting!

So, put the wire in loom, ran it just behind the grill, tie wrapping it to the backside of the grill. I did this to avoid the top of the radiator area, which I assumed would get hot. Ill have to cut the ties to take off the grill in the future. That seems ok to me? Some terminals and heat shrink on the ends of the cable, with a dab of terminal protector, and attached they went. A brief on/off confirmed it worked.

Air Hose: I also picked up some new truck bed protector at AutoZone when I got the terminals (as well as Nissan body panel pins, which I'm always seeming to break/lose.) I've now put two coats of primers and two coats of bed protector on the metal flange that will hold the bulkhead connector that I'll connect the air hose from the compressor to. I'll mount THAT to one of the light bar positions on the WAM winch mount. That should get me a quick connect.

I've added to my todo list maybe putting a hidden power switch, so I don't have to open the hood to turn on the compressor, or stocking a relay "inside" the compressor where the led was and running it inside the truck cabin to turn it on remotely. IE: some way of turning on the compressor without opening the hood. It's a stretch goal.

The battery area is starting to look a little messy, I think. I don't think I'm adding any more wires to it. Winch, wire to the truck bed, and compressor is all. I don't know. Maybe a clean up?
 

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My new favorite hobby is removing and replacing the body panel pushpins on the grill. It's great. You should try doing it about 10,000 times

The air hose is mounted and project complete. I mounted the flange for the bulkhead on one of the lightbar mounts, with a washer. Ran the hose behind the grill and trimmed it, leaving a little slack for moving it someplace else later if need be. It's a little close to the winch motor ... I wonder about heat from the winch motor melting the line if it touches it? Anyway, done. And a good thing too; I found the tires were at 34.5 PSI! I fixed that problem right up!

In retrospect, I maybe should have not used the flange and just put the bulkhead through the bumper, below the winch. If there are problems I might end up doing that. I think I left enough slack for that. I think.

I need to find a dust cap for the map quick-connect to keep the dirt out, and I should find a bag for the air hose to go in, the bag that came with the 88p is too small.

Next up: a ham radio and commentary on modern consumerism.
 

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I ordered a HAM radio. I am not happy about doing that.

I got my General license during COVID, as something to do, and promptly got a Baofeng UV5R. I listened to the local chatter one night in bed, and on the weekly check in call in the Indy area once. I used it twice for GMRS in group runs in Indiana ... on gravel roads only since that's all there is in Indiana. And it didn't even work right since they used privacy codes and I put it in wrong. And for any HAMS listening, I promise I didn't push the button.

I don't need a mobile HAM radio. I have the Baofeng. It's good enough. I'm not interested in emergency situations; that's the domain of the Garmin inReach. I told myself "weather radio!" and "keeping myself amused in the backcountry" ... as long as the truck is running and I'm in the cab. And yet, I've still ended up with ordering a mobile unit. I try hard not to fall for the Gotta Have It! culture. I didn't do so well with that this time.

I ended up ordering a Vero vr-n7500 50 watt mobile. What's interesting about this unit is that its headless. It has no controls on the unit proper, unlike every other mobile HAM unit. There are a couple of GMRS units, from Midland in particular, that are headless with all f the controls on the mic/hand unit, but this is a full on HAM radio with no controls on the unit. You control it via an app on your smartphone. You program it, via bluetooth, and then can bounce up and down the frequencies/channels and volume with the handset/mic/speaker unit. The unit is sold out everywhere, except for one store that's got a couple. So I bought one, kicking myself as I did so because I didn't need one, so I could have one before it sold out. Who knows if it will every get restocked. And, thusly, though the concept of perceived scarcity, I now have a HAM mobile unit coming to me via USPS.

This fits my "stock" aesthetic I'm going for. I know I don't have the sexiest looking truck with large tires and lift and off road bumper. I like it looking stock, inside and out. Hence, the headless HAM. I've got an ipad mini in front of the radio (and am hoping in the future to replace the headunit completely with the ipad). Anyway, the mini has all of the apps and everything, so it makes sense to me to have the HAM controls there also.

I'm pairing this with a Midland ghost antenna. It's short stubby little thing that, again, fits my stock aesthetic, as much as having another antenna can anyway. I got a magnetic mount for it and am going to try and place it on other lightbar mount on the winch. Low and in front isn't the best place for an antenna, I know. And It should be in the middle of my roof for the ground plane stuff. I'll move it if I'm unhappy, but, since I don't think I need one anyway, I'm sure it will be fine.

I'll have to go through the firewall gasket again for the antenna wire. And I'm not looking forward to finding an ignition fuse in the passenger side block that will fit an add-a-fuse. I'll deal with that issue when it pops up.

After the mobile HAM gets installed then comes a rearview mirror, with dashcam, that I can have my rearview camera always on in. My headunit only has two functions I use: the backup cam display and bluetooth to the Frontier speaks and steering wheel controls. This rearview will move the backup cam on to it, and get me a dashcam, and let me start thinking about how to replace the headunit with the ipad mini.

*sigh* I'll probably pick up that tiny Midlands CB unit also. grumble grumble grumble.
 
I got my radio installed. It's a Vero VN-N7500, a 50w duel-band unit, paired with a Midlands ghost antenna on the front winch mount.

The unit is interesting because it's a ham radio without a display. You use an Android or IOS device to connect with and program it. Since I'm using an ipad mini as a second headunit .. then perfect! I mounted it under the drivers side knee panel (with velcro ... I should zip tie it), and ran the hand mic unit (with volume and channel up/down on it) to the existing magnetic mount I had. (The mic comes with a magnetic backing. Groooovy!) The power went to an add a fuse and the antenna went through the drivers firewall plug to the front of the winch mount. TaDa! Then I spent 90 minutes updating the firmware ... Anyway, it's programmed now with GMRS frequencies ... which is a weird and expensive way to get them, I know ...

It's also interesting because it has a lot of APRS features built in, so I can broadcast my GPS position, see others, nearby repeaters, send messages and so on. I am almost certain I will never use those features. :)

Notes:
*) I know you think the antenna is junk. Works for me
*) I know the antenna is not in the right place and should be in the center of the roof. It's working for me
*) I know I shouldn't push the button on the GMRS frequencies. I double promise
*) I know you would never ever ever own a cheap chinese junk radio. Its working for me
*) I know you would never ever ever ever ever ever own a radio without a display. It's working for me

Again, I think the radio, in particular, is an interesting example of modern consumerism. I think I'm largely immune to it, but, also, I didn't need this radio AT ALL. I have a baofeng. That I never use. And, yet, here I am, having installed it. So, I'm a hypocrite with a deluded self-image ... nothing new there

Next up - rearview dashcam install! Featuring my favorite project: running a giant long wire from the rear of the truck to the front!
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Mounted and wired up a Pelsee p12pro rearview dashcam.

I was kind of missing my rearview. The backup camera to the headunit works well, but, I was missing having a rearview during traffic. And, I was kind of interested in having a dashcam. Finally, moving the backup camera to the rearview gets me one step closer to being able to mount my ipad mini as a headunit. There are a decent number of "video payer rearview mirrors", and a smaller number, but still alot, of rearviews that have a dashcam built in. I could have stepped up to one that had a third camera also, for the interior, but that narrows the choices A LOT ... and sometimes you don't want a recording of the inside. The pricepoint is around $120.

Pelsee makes a P10 and a P12, and has a pro model available for both. I went with the p12 so I could have a larger screen for the backup camera. The pro version also have some intelligence in them ... they can do a rear alert for thins coming in to the camera field of view, and can do the same, plus lane detection warnings for the front camera. I kind of miss the backup sonar on my Escape, so this was plus. But, also, while it will record both cameras at once it will only do the intelligent stuff if that camera is selected ... and your front resolution drops from 4k to 2k if you turn on that feature. That's all fine with me. I've got the "streaming" option set, so it shows the backup camera ll the time unless I swipe the mirror to change to the front, or split view.

I bought a hardwire kit, which has a small battery volage thing attached to it. You plug it in to both an ACC and a BATT fuse, with the voltage detector turning the thing off if your battery gets too low while parked. But, also, having the BATT connection means that the "GSENSOR" works, which is a collision detector while parked. If someone bumps you while you are parked then it will record.

I pulled out the old backup camera wiring and reused the split loom ... ony to find that the included wire, about 20' long, wasn't long enough to make it up the A-piller to camera. So I got the 33' long one also. The old headunit backup camera had the video wire, the red trigger wire to the reverse lights, a power wire and a ground wire. This one integrates it all in to one wire except for the trigger, which is also present. Reran the wires along the rail and soldered the new trigger to the old one ... with some shrink that doesn't fit. I'll have to figure that out. Oh, and lost one of the three radio screws, the top one, down behind the dash ... gone forever I suppose. I'll have to pick up a new one.

I had to replace the backup camera with the one in the kit. The new one is quite a bit lighter than the old one. It was also a pain to mount. I reused the license plate bracket from the old one, but, I had to superglue it to the old frame. It that doesn't hold I'll dig out the JB weld. It also feels like its meant for mounting in the inside of a back window; the camera angle is a little weird if you're not doing that. If it fails then I think I can get a better one; it uses the standard "4pin" connector.

The mirror straps on to the old one with rubber straps, which is quite a solid mount. I ordered a new rearview bracket though and will mounting it directly once it comes in a month or so. I'm hoping at that time I can clean up the wires some also ... the number of "OEM look" rearviews, with dashcams, is depressingly small, so you need to order a new "blank" mirror bracket to do it yourself.

Everything is working, even though seeing the mirror on when the truck is off is a little anxiety inducing.

Parts:
Pelsee p12pro ~$230
Hardwire kit ~$20
Longer wire - ~$20
Reaview blank - ~$20
Screw for the rearview blank (sigh) ~$10
and, of course, 8000000 zipties and the loom which I already had.

Next up: putting in a bulkhead RJ45 connector for the HAM mic to clean up that wiring.

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Bill was the heir to the standard oil name ....
 
Propane part I

I pulled one bed support and cut a piece of chipboard to size and screwed it in to the top of my 80/20 rails. Then I put on a piece of rubber on it that I had leftover from the compressor mount. I put a pop rivit through 2 new d-rings at bed rail height and put on a velcro cinch strap. Finally, I cut out a piece of the girlfriends side of bed for the propane bottle to sit down in.

This is a momentous day: I've impugned the integrity of the rear cap. Up till now it just looked like a bed with a seat and a table. A couple of lights and a fan mounted, sure, but nothing weird just hanging out. This is the first thing I've put in that is really out of place. :( I couldn't think of another way.

Yes, I know, I'm going to die. It will explode. I will be rear-ended, and I will die from fumes. On the plus side, it's RIGHT next to the rear doors, so the propane, hopefully, has some place to go.

I've already run the wiring for the propane detector I'm mounting under it, down low. I'm just waiting for it to come in ... tomorrow? I'll mount a CO detector up high at some point.

Next Up: the LP detector, the ultrasonic tank gauge ... and then, I think, I start on the fridge in the backseat?
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Mounted up the LP detector, right under the tank. About 3" from the back door. Which I think is not great, but, closer to the tank was important, I think.

I crimped the wiring because my stupid battery solding iron can get hot enough to do AWG12. I need to get a gas one, I think.

My new rearview mount came in. I had to scrape off the padding on the mirror, proper, to get to the mounting holes on it. They all lined up, even though the "sockets" don't fit in to each other. But, it's solid.

I also learned I have lost "mr pokey", the wooden thin flat screwdriver that I got from my (union carpenter) father. I think it was the last tool I had from him. Kind of bummed I can't find it anymore. I never used it as a screwdriver, but it was useful as hell for electronic repairs, prying, poking, and prodding.

I was gonna do the fridge next, but ...

Ming has declared April to be Safety Month on planet Mongo, and the crew of Warrocket Ajax, being mostly loyal in public, are going to follow through. I'm going to grab one of those newfangled Element fire extinguishers and put together a first aid kit from Chinook. I expect some other "just buy and no need to install" purchases in April, as well. The Ajax crew needs a break from cussing at not being able to fab mounting brackets for things
 
Mounted the Element 100 second fire extinguisher to the drivers door, right beside, but preserving, the cup holder.

Put a first aid kit under the passenger seat:
Hemostatic bandages
Triangular bandages
CPR shield
2 chest seals
Glucose packs
Bandage scissors
Thermometer
Cold packs
Hand warmers
Gauze rolls, 4"
Band-Aid's & Steri strips
Triple antibiotic ointment
A first aid pocket guide
Ace bandage
Irrigation syringe
Cloth tape
Burn gel
2 Burn dressings
Emergency blankets
SAM splint
2 Israeli bandages
a Tourniquet
A Smart Compression bandage, for snakes and spiders
Hemostatic gel
Orange Oropharyngeal airway
Nasopharyngeal airway w/lube
Tweezers
Nitrile Gloves
Water purification tablets
A couple of pads, tampons, and condoms

In a separate "quick" bag I've got:
Aleve
Aspirin
Baby Aspirin
Aleve
Benadryl
Dramamine
Tylenol
Zanfel

I've got a small selection of all pills, blister gel, emergency blankets, water purification tablets, Glucose packets, hand warmers and the smart compression bandage in my day bag, along with another Israeli bandage
PXL_20230409_192837935.jpg
 
Added a second, interior fuse panel, on the left side of the drivers feet. Now there's room for more goodies!

The add-a-fuse thing wasn't going to work out anymore, so, I bought a split fuse panel from Blue Sea. There are 6 powered slots on the top half and six more, separately powered, spots on the bottom half. So, two different, not connected, inputs. I wired up the top/A side to the battery and grounded it. I then popped on a relay coming from a fused position on A, and ran the output to the B/Lower input. The trigger is to the ACC/power mirror fuse on the passengers side fuse panel.

The whole thing is mounted up high by the drivers foot, off to the side. A nice amount of space up there and some ground studs nearby. I was going to screw everything, but my drill wouldn't fit. So, one screw in the bottom right of the fuse panel and then some industrial velcro with a bit of superglue on the back, after I acetone cleaned the mount spot. Same for the relay. The Milwaukee 6-in-1 utility knife came in handy ... I don't own a stubby screwdriver and it got me to the power screws on the Blue Sea.

Power to the battery, and the main panel ground, is AWG6. There's a 60 amp fuse mounted on top of the hood battery fuse bank to protect things.

Here it is with the panel off.
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I swapped out my 6' MDF bed drawer for a home built 5' aluminum one. It now weighs about a billion times less.

I used the thinnest and smallest aluminum angle I could find at Home Depot: 1/2" sides and 1/16" thick. This provided the box frame and used some flats, same thickness and size, for some vertical and horizontal supports. I used low temp aluminum brazing rods with map gas to "Weld" it together, after cutting everything to size with my jigsaw. Finally, I used some thin chipboard for the front, back, sides and bottom that is held in place with construction adhesive. This removed a lot of flex. I added a "tile backsplash" sticker to the front and remounted a handle and my cutting board shelf brackets ... with screws through the chipboard and more construction adhesive. Those screws will pull out, but, hopefully, they hold well enough for the adhesive to do its work.

MAP gas heats it fast, but I found the process cumbersome, as was the cutting with the jigsaw. It's not accurate, and nothing is square. About three days after finishing I saw another guy had used pop rivets. Doh! Although, I'm not sure I could holed the pieces in place to drill through accurately/well.

Everything is fine, But, in retrospect ... I should join a makerspace (~$50/month) for the months I am fabricating larger things like this. A mitre saw would have been faster and better in cutting the aluminum, and, obviously, the table saw would have helped with the chipboard. And, they should have welder. I've not welded before, but even I should be able to handle this kind of weld up. Maybe, also, I should have stepped up to 1" angle, if only for the ability to pop rivet things in and more slop for the chipboard fitting.

You can see my water tank in the back, which is why the drawer is now about a foot shorter. It's 13 gallons ... and came with no fitting except a hole in the top. I need to find the fittings for it: inlet, outlet, breather? and a large hole plug to get the debris out after drilling. The plan is to put in a pump and a filter. I want to filter both directions, so, I think I'm going to put in some electronic three-way vales, two of them, to swap the pump filter from outlet to inlet. I Would also put in a bunch of manual T's, but that means running a lot more lines to the door instead of just some small electrical cable to trigger the vales/pump.
 

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