Build - Frontier with ARE DCU topper

I backpacked through Asia & Africa when I was younger, then settled down for 30 years for wives, kids, mortgages, etc. Time to get back at it! My first retirement date at the university is 3/21/2025. The new girlfriend likes to camp, so I've pushed up my "build & build" timeline by 2.5 years. Retire, tool around the US & Canada for a bit, then hit Central and South America, then ship to Africa and drive around there and Asia. Also, try to visit every place in my Strange Storied & Amazing Facts book, from 1975, most of which are now proven hoaxes and/or now have scientific explanations.

I wanted to base my build around an ARE MX topper with the walk-in door, and do it in a mid-size truck for more maneuverability, with 4x4 for getting in to more places/away from the crowds. That means Tacoma or Frontier. The Tacomas in Indianapolis were rusted out AND expensive, but I found an Indiana Frontier, a 13 4x4 SV with 79,000 on the odometer. Mechanic says its one of the best used trucks he's seen, no rust at all under the body, except a little surface stuff on the driveshaft and muffler. I call the cap place. Yes, the cap is available. The truck salesman calls the cap place. Yes the cap is available with the door. I buy it and drive to the cap place. Their system kicks out the order. The Frontier ARE MX cap no longer has the walk in door available, in spite of the ARE computer system and web site saying it is so. Home & Dreams crushed. I panic make a decision and buy a DCU aluminum/workman cap on the spot ... without doing my research.

I end up with one 29" high, for the extra headroom, and windoors on either side. I wanted sliding windows, but they said it was unavailable. It turns out they WERE available, but I only found that out later. The windoors should provide excellent ventilation though ... and I hope keep the rain out also. I got barn doors on the back, which, along with the extra headroom, was my primary buying concern: no more crawling over tailgates. It takes two months to come in. When it does, it doesn't fit. It's too short. ARE doesn't make many caps for the Frontier, it seems. They put on a longer flange and say it will be as weather-tight as all other caps. Oh well. Bonus points, it fits in the garage under my apartment building!

I put in polyiso R6 on the ARE cap, proper, and then covered it with chenille as a headliner for aesthetics and condensation purposes. Then I covered the truck bed with $.50 sqft indoor/outdoor carpet from Lowes, just to get the bare metal covered.

It's a very basic truck. So far I've:
*) Put on a hitch and done the wiring for it.
*) Put in a cheapo Pioneer headunit with bluetooth support
*) Put in a backup camera.
*) Better grounding from the truck bed to the frame.
*) Put the cap on
*) Insulated the cap
*) KO2's
*) Put a headliner in the cap and carpeted the truck bed proper.


Next steps:
*) Build a U shaped sleeper box, with a table that slides down to turn the whole thing in to a bed. This will be roughly prototyped, first, with 1x1 wood and then done in aluminum.
*) Roof rack from a Suburban at pick-a-part
*) DC-DC charger and 100-200amp Lithium battery. (My night heat will be a 12v heated mattress pad; I might be able to get away with only 100amps, we'll see.)
*) Lights/outlets, etc. All 12v
*) Magnetic screens for the windoors and rear doors.
*) Maybe a powered roof vent.
*) Maybe sliders
*) A winch
*) Some kind of under-hood/under-bed on-board air/compressor.
*) Better shocks. I have a history of blowing out shocks on washboard. So, something HD but still with ready availability
*) Fluid film it
*) Try and locate some kind of wind deflector to help with the problem of the cap stick up about 6" over the cab. Aesthetics AND MPG issues, I think? I don't know what I'm going to do here. I've not seen anything like this, except on semi's.
*) A billion other things to get back the "modern car" functionality, like auto-headlights, sonar parking sounds, time till empty, etc.

Upsides to the Frontier as a platform:
*) Reliability. It's an old design and very solid old school truck. That is, after all, perhaps the primary point, isn't it?

Downsides to the Frontier as a platform:
*) Old design means "typical old truck gas mileage." 13 or so, in the city. With a not-huge tank. I anticipate some range anxiety. I'm loathe to carry things on the outside of the truck, I'd prefer to keep it looking like a truck and not an overlander. I don't know yet what I'm going to do to mitigate my range anxiety.
*) Aftermarket stinks. As witnessed by the MX cap debacle. You don't get much selection, if you get any at all. This is MOSTLY ok for me, since I'm going pretty close to stock.

Truck came in two months ago. Cap came in last week, so a lot of progress in the last week on the cap. Going to my first "Overlander" meetup this weekend ... with mask on and 6' apart.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20201110_150252449.MP.jpg
    PXL_20201110_150252449.MP.jpg
    737 KB · Views: 349
  • PXL_20201119_175214571.jpg
    PXL_20201119_175214571.jpg
    243 KB · Views: 331

(none)

Adventurer
Looking great! I'd recommend the OME suspension. Not expensive, rides great, easy to get replacement parts.

I really like my ARE cap, although i use mine a little differently than you plan to.

45137782552_f0c6ae58cb_c.jpg


50250078931_b2b8fde9e7_c.jpg


50250078846_d963de6307_c.jpg
 
Thanks for the encourage words, folks!

Your mpg seems low. I had a 2007 Frontier and got 15 in the city. On road trips, it would get close to 20. Maybe the high topper really makes a big difference.

Maybe? I would like to get a (cowling?) to go on the top of the cab to smooth the transition to the cap. I have no idea though what they are called or how to source one. Some guys this weekend suggested I contact some of the racing shops for some custom fab work.

In any event, I need to start tracking mileage to get a better idea. Fuelly, I guess?
 

OBS460

Well-known member
It looks great, and I'm doing very similar things with mine!

I too think I'll be using polysio or XMP foam, as its hard to beat for price and insulation value. I'm jealous of the barn style doors, I wish my topper had them.
 
I almost settled on XPS also, until I found the polyiso hiding out in another area of the store. The polyiso worked better if I scored it and snapped it, as opposed to trying to cut deep with my utility knife.

I had some time at lunch so I built my bed platform. This is a prototype. After I get used to it for a few moths I'll replace it with the aluminum channel stuff. Likewise, I'll have a plywood section going down the middle, initially, to slot in. Then, I'll affix a laguan table to swing out as a table and then drop down at night for the bed.

Lessons Learned:
*) I probably should have put in a plywood floor to even things out. The leg dimensions were all over the place because of the rippled bed. I was avoiding putting down a wood floor because of complexity of a cut with all of the irregular shapes with the wheel wells, etc.
*) I should have also moved the "cab" horizontal piece in a ways, to get my drill behind it. As is, the screws are more pegs than structural.
*) The barn doors don't cover the full width, so slide out tables are going to be narrow. I'm not sure yet what I will do. Maybe a single slide out table under the "aisle." I was hoping to put the stove, at least, on an underbed slide. I'm not sure yet if i'll be able to do that.

The primary things I want to learn with the prototype are:
*) Bed height
*) Aisle width/width of the two side sections
*) How that all impacts the slideout "drawers" I envisioned, in relation to the barn door issue.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20201123_200241475.jpg
    PXL_20201123_200241475.jpg
    718.3 KB · Views: 94

OBS460

Well-known member
I almost settled on XPS also, until I found the polyiso hiding out in another area of the store. The polyiso worked better if I scored it and snapped it, as opposed to trying to cut deep with my utility knife.

I had some time at lunch so I built my bed platform. This is a prototype. After I get used to it for a few moths I'll replace it with the aluminum channel stuff. Likewise, I'll have a plywood section going down the middle, initially, to slot in. Then, I'll affix a laguan table to swing out as a table and then drop down at night for the bed.

Lessons Learned:
*) I probably should have put in a plywood floor to even things out. The leg dimensions were all over the place because of the rippled bed. I was avoiding putting down a wood floor because of complexity of a cut with all of the irregular shapes with the wheel wells, etc.
*) I should have also moved the "cab" horizontal piece in a ways, to get my drill behind it. As is, the screws are more pegs than structural.
*) The barn doors don't cover the full width, so slide out tables are going to be narrow. I'm not sure yet what I will do. Maybe a single slide out table under the "aisle." I was hoping to put the stove, at least, on an underbed slide. I'm not sure yet if i'll be able to do that.

The primary things I want to learn with the prototype are:
*) Bed height
*) Aisle width/width of the two side sections
*) How that all impacts the slideout "drawers" I envisioned, in relation to the barn door issue.



I did a lower profile bed platform at just above wheel well level, then had 3 pull out drawers beneath it. I really like being able to load the beds length worth of storage without having to climb in and out of the truck repeatedly.

For my needs, I think the sweet spot is similar to your idea with 2 drawers and an open center. I'm likely going to remove my center drawer in the spring so I can gain back the 10" of headroom in the middle.
 
Finished up the headliner & carpet and started trimming it out with some ribbon. Bed came in and put the bedding on. I'll be sleeping in it tonight!

Initial impressions of this first pass prototype: the bed is too high. Now I get to play the "But ... I'll have less space underneath!" game.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20201202_221020622.jpg
    PXL_20201202_221020622.jpg
    778.8 KB · Views: 71

Josh41

Adventurer
Looks great, we've been all over the country in our '16 Frontier. It's a great reliable truck, try Nisstec for skids, bumpers, lifts, etc. We have ours lifted about 3 inches. Just sold the AT habitat and got a small aluminum trailer. Only issue we have ever had (this is our second Frontier) is the axle seals, the vent clogs, so you might want to get the vent kit, easy install, sounds like you are capable of doing it.
We are planning on a cap like yours, can't find any used, also tired of crawling over the tailgate.
Enjoy
 

colodak

Adventurer
I backpacked through Asia & Africa when I was younger, then settled down for 30 years for wives, kids, mortgages, etc. Time to get back at it! My first retirement date at the university is 3/21/2025. The new girlfriend likes to camp, so I've pushed up my "build & build" timeline by 2.5 years. Retire, tool around the US & Canada for a bit, then hit Central and South America, then ship to Africa and drive around there and Asia. Also, try to visit every place in my Strange Storied & Amazing Facts book, from 1975, most of which are now proven hoaxes and/or now have scientific explanations.

I wanted to base my build around an ARE MX topper with the walk-in door, and do it in a mid-size truck for more maneuverability, with 4x4 for getting in to more places/away from the crowds. That means Tacoma or Frontier. The Tacomas in Indianapolis were rusted out AND expensive, but I found an Indiana Frontier, a 13 4x4 SV with 79,000 on the odometer. Mechanic says its one of the best used trucks he's seen, no rust at all under the body, except a little surface stuff on the driveshaft and muffler. I call the cap place. Yes, the cap is available. The truck salesman calls the cap place. Yes the cap is available with the door. I buy it and drive to the cap place. Their system kicks out the order. The Frontier ARE MX cap no longer has the walk in door available, in spite of the ARE computer system and web site saying it is so. Home & Dreams crushed. I panic make a decision and buy a DCU aluminum/workman cap on the spot ... without doing my research.

I end up with one 29" high, for the extra headroom, and windoors on either side. I wanted sliding windows, but they said it was unavailable. It turns out they WERE available, but I only found that out later. The windoors should provide excellent ventilation though ... and I hope keep the rain out also. I got barn doors on the back, which, along with the extra headroom, was my primary buying concern: no more crawling over tailgates. It takes two months to come in. When it does, it doesn't fit. It's too short. ARE doesn't make many caps for the Frontier, it seems. They put on a longer flange and say it will be as weather-tight as all other caps. Oh well. Bonus points, it fits in the garage under my apartment building!

I put in polyiso R6 on the ARE cap, proper, and then covered it with chenille as a headliner for aesthetics and condensation purposes. Then I covered the truck bed with $.50 sqft indoor/outdoor carpet from Lowes, just to get the bare metal covered.

It's a very basic truck. So far I've:
*) Put on a hitch and done the wiring for it.
*) Put in a cheapo Pioneer headunit with bluetooth support
*) Put in a backup camera.
*) Better grounding from the truck bed to the frame.
*) Put the cap on
*) Insulated the cap
*) KO2's
*) Put a headliner in the cap and carpeted the truck bed proper.


Next steps:
*) Build a U shaped sleeper box, with a table that slides down to turn the whole thing in to a bed. This will be roughly prototyped, first, with 1x1 wood and then done in aluminum.
*) Roof rack from a Suburban at pick-a-part
*) DC-DC charger and 100-200amp Lithium battery. (My night heat will be a 12v heated mattress pad; I might be able to get away with only 100amps, we'll see.)
*) Lights/outlets, etc. All 12v
*) Magnetic screens for the windoors and rear doors.
*) Maybe a powered roof vent.
*) Maybe sliders
*) A winch
*) Some kind of under-hood/under-bed on-board air/compressor.
*) Better shocks. I have a history of blowing out shocks on washboard. So, something HD but still with ready availability
*) Fluid film it
*) Try and locate some kind of wind deflector to help with the problem of the cap stick up about 6" over the cab. Aesthetics AND MPG issues, I think? I don't know what I'm going to do here. I've not seen anything like this, except on semi's.
*) A billion other things to get back the "modern car" functionality, like auto-headlights, sonar parking sounds, time till empty, etc.

Upsides to the Frontier as a platform:
*) Reliability. It's an old design and very solid old school truck. That is, after all, perhaps the primary point, isn't it?

Downsides to the Frontier as a platform:
*) Old design means "typical old truck gas mileage." 13 or so, in the city. With a not-huge tank. I anticipate some range anxiety. I'm loathe to carry things on the outside of the truck, I'd prefer to keep it looking like a truck and not an overlander. I don't know yet what I'm going to do to mitigate my range anxiety.
*) Aftermarket stinks. As witnessed by the MX cap debacle. You don't get much selection, if you get any at all. This is MOSTLY ok for me, since I'm going pretty close to stock.

Truck came in two months ago. Cap came in last week, so a lot of progress in the last week on the cap. Going to my first "Overlander" meetup this weekend ... with mask on and 6' apart.

Aftermarket? www.nissteclifts.com for all your needs. Also Shrockworks, Hefty Fabworks, Dezert Runner, PRG, Calmini (that's real shady dealings), and many many others
 
Two nights in it. Very warm; I keep my bedroom at 68 and it seems warmer than that, with just a comforter. No condensation, although I did crack the front window an inch.

Bed is absolutely too high. The nalgene is uncomfortable. I need to lower the bed but I'm worried about loosing storage space under it. I need to do it anyway, that's why it's called a prototype.

Need some velcro/etc on the headline/front wall to store earplugs and glasses, phone, etc.

Rear door needs a way to close it and latch it from the inside; I kept worrying about kicking the door open during the night.
 

highwest

Well-known member
Data point - We have a platform with 9” underneath. The only items that we can’t fit under there are coolers, propane tanks, and tall totes of firewood/trash/etc. Everything else, food, kitchen, tools, heavy gear, goes underneath. Light stuff, like camp chairs, bedding, personal bags, and the like, travel up on the bed platform.
 
Data point - We have a platform with 9” underneath. The only items that we can’t fit under there are coolers, propane tanks, and tall totes of firewood/trash/etc. Everything else, food, kitchen, tools, heavy gear, goes underneath. Light stuff, like camp chairs, bedding, personal bags, and the like, travel up on the bed platform.

That's great to know! I think it helps ease my anxiety somewhat. I'm excited to complete the build with the 80/20 aluminum, but there's no right answer since "what can I do to have more space?" is an open-ended question. But, just typing that out, I'm breathing easier ... it will work out. it always does. Im planning on storing the 6 foot clam popup down the center aisle with the chairs either next to it or in the backseat (that backseat is getting kind of full ... ;)

I think I'm close to giving up on my "larger than a green bottle" propane dreams, but I had hoped to fit a small 22L/27L fridge under it. My backup plan for the cooler is the backseat of the king cab, although it makes the wiring to the battery in the bed harder.

I feel like I'm juggling four balls:
1) Maximizing storage underneath
2) Comfortable headroom when sleeping (ie: nalgene, sitting up, partner "activities", etc)
3) Comfortable height sitting when it's in "bench & table" mode
4) Can I fit a small 12v fridge? (optional)
 

highwest

Well-known member
On the flip side, our sleeping space is 30” high, which is cozy. No sitting up, but you can come up to rest on your elbows to drink. Is that the Nalgene you’re referring to? Or the opposite function?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
188,213
Messages
2,903,867
Members
229,665
Latest member
SANelson
Top