I've no knowledge of Tacoma driveshafts, do they have a double Cardan type CV joint in the rear? If so, then everything changes.
If not, and you've got a 2 piece rear drive shaft the front part needs to be as perfectly inline with the crank centerline as you can get. Something as simple as a settled motor mount can change the alignment enough to cause vibration. The OME shim is most likely a best fit shim and may not be exactly correct for any particular truck. Then the U-J angles in the rear section want to be the same. If there is any difference you want it to be at the pinion flange and you want that angle to be slightly (maybe 2* max) steeper. This will compensate for pinion angle change under load.
Note that if there is any angle in the second section as viewed from the top or bottom that they too need to be equal, and that there should be none in the first section.
As I've been composing while actually doing some work (!!!) I see the note about the rubber surround of the carrier bearing. I've wiped out several of those on my ''84 toyota 4wd. The best solution that I've found, short of building an entirely different sort of 'suspension' for the bearing, is to pump the void inside the rubber of a new assembly full of RTV silicone.