jim65wagon
Well-known member
If we were closer I would at least try to help you fix some of those things....
good to see you're still here!
good to see you're still here!
C.Shontz 2001 Jeep Cherokee (Progress)
- Thread starter cshontz
- Start date
Root Moose
Expedition Leader
Is your heat soak issue leading to a P0303?
Have you applied the little insulators to the injectors per the TSB?
I had this problem and doing the TSB solved the issue.
Have you applied the little insulators to the injectors per the TSB?
I had this problem and doing the TSB solved the issue.
Black Dog
Makin' Beer.
I had that same problem. What mine was doing was when I would roll the window up it would hang then almost like pop out of track and get crooked and not go up any more. What it was was the little thing that pulls the window up (looks like a big pipe cleaner) was not fully attached or something, so it would get to a point and come undone. Sometimes I'd hit a bump or a pot hole and the window would be closed then drop a couple inches. I had to replace the whole power window assembly, the track and motor and everything, because because it is all one piece.
I've seen a fix for the windows here..www.steigerperformance.com give it a try!
cshontz
Supporting Sponsor
Thanks, guys! I've already scrutinized over the window issue a good bit on Jeep Forum.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/01xj-passenger-power-window-fail-971693/
The regulator is fine, I believe. The passenger-side switch puts the window down, but not up. Up can be achieved by reversing polarity on the wiring. The driver's side passenger window switch does nothing. It does send juice to the regulator connector, but only "up" juice whether the driver's side switch is pressed up or down -- if that makes any sense.
My theory is a faulty DDM on the driver's side. Perhaps a short or dirty switch. My second theory is wire-fatigue in the driver's side harness at the hinge.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/01xj-passenger-power-window-fail-971693/
The regulator is fine, I believe. The passenger-side switch puts the window down, but not up. Up can be achieved by reversing polarity on the wiring. The driver's side passenger window switch does nothing. It does send juice to the regulator connector, but only "up" juice whether the driver's side switch is pressed up or down -- if that makes any sense.
My theory is a faulty DDM on the driver's side. Perhaps a short or dirty switch. My second theory is wire-fatigue in the driver's side harness at the hinge.
alosix
Expedition Leader
That sounds about right. I managed to get my M725 power windows into about that sort of situation by screwing up the wiring on the driver's side for the first go round. The pass window would only go 1 direction with the driver's side switch messed up.
Root Moose
Expedition Leader
Spidey-sense is telling me there is a thread at NAXJA that relates to fixing the little board in the door on the driver's side. Something about the connectors or the PCB tracing lifting or cracking and being fixed with a soldering gun.
Sorry, that's all that is in the brain pan.
Sorry, that's all that is in the brain pan.
I had similar issues and ended up replacing the DDM. It didn't help. The cause was cracked wires in the driver's door hinge area. Mine does have high miles, but the wires were suprisingly cheap and I wouldn't doubt if they are failing from age and becoming brittle.
I have a driver's side regulator out of a 00' cherokee is anyone is needing it. PM me and I'll let it go cheap.
Thanks,
Troy
I have a driver's side regulator out of a 00' cherokee is anyone is needing it. PM me and I'll let it go cheap.
Thanks,
Troy
Root Moose
Expedition Leader
Yep, wiring used in Jeeps suck. Don't get me started on the headlight switch.
Black Dog
Makin' Beer.
Whats wrong with the headlight switch? :sombrero:
The only electrical problems I've got is the gauges in the dash die on me but a good whack on the dash board fixes it usually, and my turn signals don't work most of the time (a relay problem I'm thinking). And once or twice my airbag light has come on, but I shut the engine off then back on and the light stayed off.
Root Moose
Expedition Leader
Is your Jeep 97+? If so, there is a connector in the back of the cluster where it interfaces to the rest of the bus. The connector is very lame and doesn't take much effort to pull out (or vibrate out). I'm guessing that is what you are encountering.
For the SRS, guessing it is just a red herring.
Black Dog
Makin' Beer.
I've had the cluster taken apart and that connector was barely connected. So far everyone I've met with a later model XJ or a TJ has said they have that same problem, and as far as I know the only real way to fix that is either to epoxy the connector in place or to take it apart and hard wire it, neither of those seem like too appealing of an idea to me.
On my turn signal, its real sporadic but lately it hasn't worked at all. When I turn it on, it might click once or twice, or more times, or not at all. When it isn't working it just does nothing. Sometimes the actual turn signals at each corner of the vehicle blink but most of the time they don't. Usually I can get a couple blinks out of it by on and off by hand, but there generally isn't enough traffic up here to really worry about it. The relay seems right and its easy enough to fix, I just need to get off my lazy buttocks and do it.
On my turn signal, its real sporadic but lately it hasn't worked at all. When I turn it on, it might click once or twice, or more times, or not at all. When it isn't working it just does nothing. Sometimes the actual turn signals at each corner of the vehicle blink but most of the time they don't. Usually I can get a couple blinks out of it by on and off by hand, but there generally isn't enough traffic up here to really worry about it. The relay seems right and its easy enough to fix, I just need to get off my lazy buttocks and do it.
cshontz
Supporting Sponsor
Fixed the problem with the passenger-side power window.
One wire was severed completely, and a few other wires were about to break in the wiring-harness where it passes through the driver's side hinge. Looks like some moisture, plus cold weather, plus fatigue from opening and closing the door had their way with them. I was surprised by their poor condition.
I did very my best to repair all of the wires with the tools that I had. It may last, but this is a flex-point in the wiring-harness so I'm not certain how permanent my repair will be. I may look into a replacement wiring harness for the future.
One wire was severed completely, and a few other wires were about to break in the wiring-harness where it passes through the driver's side hinge. Looks like some moisture, plus cold weather, plus fatigue from opening and closing the door had their way with them. I was surprised by their poor condition.
I did very my best to repair all of the wires with the tools that I had. It may last, but this is a flex-point in the wiring-harness so I'm not certain how permanent my repair will be. I may look into a replacement wiring harness for the future.
cshontz
Supporting Sponsor
I think I will finally have the means to give my Cherokee some attention within the next month or two.
Starting with tires. Leaning toward Goodyear Duratracs. Honestly, I'm perfectly happy with the BFGoodrich All-Terrains in terms of performance and longevity but not comfort. Since the Goodyear is available in a Load Range C, that might really improve comfort. Feedback has generally been good.
Secondarily, I think I'm going to have the transfer case issue fixed. I was spinning tires at a reasonably high rate of speed a year or so ago on a wet road, trying to drive up a steep hill. So I was an idiot and engaged the 4-HI while my rear tires were spinning. Don't say it -- I don't know what I was thinking. Needless to say, my transfer case didn't like this maneuver one bit, and 4-high has been a little bit wonky ever since. I'm lucky I didn't turn it into a box of rocks.
Thirdarily, I'm going to get a new battery. Leaning toward a Die Hard Platinum. Can anyone recommend a decent deep-cycle battery for the Jeep Cherokee? I know there are a number of battery threads, but... there is a more discussion on the matter than I need. All I know is that I have basic needs, and like to leave my GPS and 12v fridge running for a while with the car off.
Finally, IF I have the means -- and this might be a stretch -- I'm going to get the A/C fixed.
But my goal is to have this work complete before the end of May.
Starting with tires. Leaning toward Goodyear Duratracs. Honestly, I'm perfectly happy with the BFGoodrich All-Terrains in terms of performance and longevity but not comfort. Since the Goodyear is available in a Load Range C, that might really improve comfort. Feedback has generally been good.
Secondarily, I think I'm going to have the transfer case issue fixed. I was spinning tires at a reasonably high rate of speed a year or so ago on a wet road, trying to drive up a steep hill. So I was an idiot and engaged the 4-HI while my rear tires were spinning. Don't say it -- I don't know what I was thinking. Needless to say, my transfer case didn't like this maneuver one bit, and 4-high has been a little bit wonky ever since. I'm lucky I didn't turn it into a box of rocks.
Thirdarily, I'm going to get a new battery. Leaning toward a Die Hard Platinum. Can anyone recommend a decent deep-cycle battery for the Jeep Cherokee? I know there are a number of battery threads, but... there is a more discussion on the matter than I need. All I know is that I have basic needs, and like to leave my GPS and 12v fridge running for a while with the car off.
Finally, IF I have the means -- and this might be a stretch -- I'm going to get the A/C fixed.
But my goal is to have this work complete before the end of May.
Purple People Eater
Explorer
I bought a Die Hard Platinum about 4 or 5 months ago for my Jeep. I don't have the fridge in there every day, but I've had it on for a couple weeks at a time, and I haven't had an issue. It's a Sears battery, so it won't be too difficult to get some support if need be, and it has a 4 year warranty. It's the exact same battery as the Odyssey, just re-badged.
So far, so good for me. I paired it up with some HD mil-spec battery connectors, so I just look at my battery situation and feel unstoppable.