Canadian Disco 2 Build
- Thread starter R_Lefebvre
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R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
Wow... this is starting to take an incredibly long time. Doesn't help that I'm making all the parts from scratch, and it's fairly complex. I spent most of today building the swing-away hinge system.
Here's a shot of my POS lathe/mill/drill. It's pretty much junk, but sometimes it's better than nothing.
Here's where I'm at. You can see the tow bracket, still needs some frame ties. I'm not sure how low it will have to go, so I made it extra long and can cut it off. I'll likely have two of these bars to choose from. One that will go low enough for my Seadoo trailer, and other regular trailers, and one that is just the right height for my camping trailer.
I'm using 1.5" OD 1/8" wall DOM tubing as a sleeve welded into the main swingaway beam. I'll be welding a piece of 1" shaft into the bumper beam, through the top and bottom. I machined bushings out of delrin. Just have to get the clearances right on them because it's a press fit into the sleeve, but then is too tight on the shaft. Maybe ream the bushings after they're installed.
Here's a shot of my POS lathe/mill/drill. It's pretty much junk, but sometimes it's better than nothing.
Here's where I'm at. You can see the tow bracket, still needs some frame ties. I'm not sure how low it will have to go, so I made it extra long and can cut it off. I'll likely have two of these bars to choose from. One that will go low enough for my Seadoo trailer, and other regular trailers, and one that is just the right height for my camping trailer.
I'm using 1.5" OD 1/8" wall DOM tubing as a sleeve welded into the main swingaway beam. I'll be welding a piece of 1" shaft into the bumper beam, through the top and bottom. I machined bushings out of delrin. Just have to get the clearances right on them because it's a press fit into the sleeve, but then is too tight on the shaft. Maybe ream the bushings after they're installed.
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R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
Don't forget, the factory hitch reciever was under the bumper to start with. I need to get back down a fair ways. But, this will likely get sawed off anyway.
I think the drop hitch is a really poor idea on what so far looks like a pretty good bumper build.
The 2" reciever hitch is a much better way to go IMHO. The readily available drop inserts have a little rake to them so they slide over things and they can be removed in 30 seconds if not needed.
I know you want this to look all defenderish and all but all it's going to be is a huge ground plow and pulling that heavy trailer will just get even more complicated on anything more then a fireroad. Keep in mind when you are in ruts that 90* ground plow will be in the dirt.
The 2" reciever hitch is a much better way to go IMHO. The readily available drop inserts have a little rake to them so they slide over things and they can be removed in 30 seconds if not needed.
I know you want this to look all defenderish and all but all it's going to be is a huge ground plow and pulling that heavy trailer will just get even more complicated on anything more then a fireroad. Keep in mind when you are in ruts that 90* ground plow will be in the dirt.
Alaska Mike
ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
I was kinda wondering about that as well, given your earlier concerns about departure angles. While drop receivers are a compromise to start off with that can have some decent shift laterally, at least you can remove them for serious off-road use.
What's the concept here? My Series has a similar hitch, but it doesn't extend much past the base of the frame, losing little departure angle.
What's the concept here? My Series has a similar hitch, but it doesn't extend much past the base of the frame, losing little departure angle.
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
The trailer is pretty much only intended for fire roads anyway. I understand your concerns about the plow, but please wait until it's finished and you'll see where I'm going. There will be frame ties going forward, and will use L-angle. Then I'll have a triangular skidplate attached on the bottom of those braces. So while I'll still suffer for ground clearance, it will slide over things instead of digging in. I've already towed on dirt roads with an 8" drop hitch in the factory reciever, and even though it has a slight rake, it still digs in anyway. That's why I thought this up. It's a bit unconventional, but I'm going to give it a try.
Originally I was going to use a 2" reciever with a big drop hitch, but I don't like the looseness of that setup. It was bad enough with an 8" drop, but since the reciever would now be 4" higher, I'd need 12" drop, making it even worse. It's just too much torsional loading back and forth on that thing. So then I started thinking about adding the frame ties to stabilize it. That's when I also thought about skid plating the bottom of the ties, to make it skim over the ground instead of digging in. Once I thought about that setup, it didn't take long to make the leap here. The bolt pattern on the back of the bumper is the same as a 5t Dixon Bate, so I can now bolt one on if I want. I just like the rigid bolting instead of the slip fit 2" reciever.
Well, exactly, this is removable too. 4 bolts. So, it's not as easy as pulling a pin, but it's going to be much more rigid for less clunking around.
When removed, I'll have more clearance than if I'd kept a 2" reciever under the bumper, and I now have a place to bolt a DB.
Eventually I'll have a serious off-road trailer with a much higher frame, and might be able to get away with no drop hitch at all, come right out of the bumper for serious ground clearance when towing it.
Oh, and I decided not to install the oval reverse lights in the bumper. It's just going to remove too much strength and clutter things up too much. I'll see if I can fit them into the swingaway somewhere.
Originally I was going to use a 2" reciever with a big drop hitch, but I don't like the looseness of that setup. It was bad enough with an 8" drop, but since the reciever would now be 4" higher, I'd need 12" drop, making it even worse. It's just too much torsional loading back and forth on that thing. So then I started thinking about adding the frame ties to stabilize it. That's when I also thought about skid plating the bottom of the ties, to make it skim over the ground instead of digging in. Once I thought about that setup, it didn't take long to make the leap here. The bolt pattern on the back of the bumper is the same as a 5t Dixon Bate, so I can now bolt one on if I want. I just like the rigid bolting instead of the slip fit 2" reciever.
Well, exactly, this is removable too. 4 bolts. So, it's not as easy as pulling a pin, but it's going to be much more rigid for less clunking around.
When removed, I'll have more clearance than if I'd kept a 2" reciever under the bumper, and I now have a place to bolt a DB.
Eventually I'll have a serious off-road trailer with a much higher frame, and might be able to get away with no drop hitch at all, come right out of the bumper for serious ground clearance when towing it.
Oh, and I decided not to install the oval reverse lights in the bumper. It's just going to remove too much strength and clutter things up too much. I'll see if I can fit them into the swingaway somewhere.
See if that is your intention there is even a bigger reason to go with a 2" reciever socket welded right into the cross beam.
You are going to have more then the 4 bolts to remove that unit you are also going to have to remove the laterals and skid sheild. Then you will be without the protection on the tank when you really want it , when you are hitting the tough stuff.
Drop hitches are actually pretty easy and very effective. Have a number of drop hieghts based on the trailer I pull all the way to a 12" one and never have had a issue using them at all. Valley also has a line of poly cushioned ones if you are worried about noise.
Having your skid sheild seperate makes much more sence as far as I see it and being able it slide in any generic reciever at a moments notice on a trail ride or on the road to be able to haul a trailer is nice as well. There have been times where someone other then the original pulled had to haul a off road trailer home. We had one such case last summer where one of those heavy adventure trailers tore the hitch off a D1.
Being flexible rules!
You are going to have more then the 4 bolts to remove that unit you are also going to have to remove the laterals and skid sheild. Then you will be without the protection on the tank when you really want it , when you are hitting the tough stuff.
Drop hitches are actually pretty easy and very effective. Have a number of drop hieghts based on the trailer I pull all the way to a 12" one and never have had a issue using them at all. Valley also has a line of poly cushioned ones if you are worried about noise.
Having your skid sheild seperate makes much more sence as far as I see it and being able it slide in any generic reciever at a moments notice on a trail ride or on the road to be able to haul a trailer is nice as well. There have been times where someone other then the original pulled had to haul a off road trailer home. We had one such case last summer where one of those heavy adventure trailers tore the hitch off a D1.
Being flexible rules!
Antichrist
Expedition Leader
Rather than having such a huge drop, have you considered modifying your trailer tongue so it's higher from the ground at the hitch? That will let you keep your departure angle when not towning and even when towing you'll have a better departure angle in many cases.
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
The gas tank will have a seperate skid plate, because it will be sloped up to the rear bumper. That will remain on always. The "hitch slider" I guess I should be called will basically come straight back from the frame.
Did some measuring last night, and it looks like I should be able to cut about 4" off this one. So it'll have 15" ground clearance. The bottom of the frame on the camping trailer (and thus rough hitch height) is 17".
The problem with the reciever really is that you're giving up about 4" of clearance.
And my system is flexible... now I can bolt a 5t DB, or a simple pintle hook right to the rear bumper.
I also picked up the steel for the sliders... I got 1/4" 3x5 L and a 1/4" x 5 strip I have to weld together to make the U channel (couldn't get 3x5 tube). Damn is it heavy! Are people using 1/4"?!?
Did some measuring last night, and it looks like I should be able to cut about 4" off this one. So it'll have 15" ground clearance. The bottom of the frame on the camping trailer (and thus rough hitch height) is 17".
The problem with the reciever really is that you're giving up about 4" of clearance.
And my system is flexible... now I can bolt a 5t DB, or a simple pintle hook right to the rear bumper.
I also picked up the steel for the sliders... I got 1/4" 3x5 L and a 1/4" x 5 strip I have to weld together to make the U channel (couldn't get 3x5 tube). Damn is it heavy! Are people using 1/4"?!?
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
I did consider it when building the trailer, but didn't really see any great way of doing it. The thing is, I also want be able to tow the thing with our Minivan sometimes, or maybe an LR2 if I got one in the future. I considered having a second tongue reciever welded up above the lower tongue, sort of the way an M416 is done, but it would still leave the lower tongue reciever hanging down low where it would get stuffed into the ground anyway. So that wasn't really a solution. It would allow the trailer to tow level without a drop hitch, but everything else about it sucked. Not to mention the extra weight and complexity of having a second tongue reciever welded up above the lower one.
And at the end of the day, the trailer is just too big to be towing anywhere where 17" of ground clearance isn't enough anyway.
I even thought of having a "riser" tube that would plug into the socket of the trailer tongue reciever, but it's *still* a protrusion that would get stuffed into the ground. I figured the back braced drop hitch with slider plate was the lesser of many evils.
If at the end of all this, it just isn't working out, I can just grind off the paint and weld a reciever tube on the bottom.
If/when I build a light weight off-road utility trailer, I'll set the tongue height much higher. That trailer might be dragged through some ****. This one is mostly for logging roads, etc.
And, my departure angle will not be affected normally. With the hitch unbolted, it'll be similar to a Greg Davis style bumper with a reciever tube.
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
Alright, here's where I'm at.
I've found that it's very close to the rear door... about 1" away on average. Which is fine, but I'm probably going to have a problem with clearance to the rear wiper arm. There's also not going to be much room behind there for the axe and shovel, I'll probably do something different with them than originally planned. Mount them cross-wise behind the upper part of the tire.
And note, this is what it will look like any time I'm not towing a trailer. No hitch or receiver tube sticking out at all. Just clean for the best departure angle.
I've found that it's very close to the rear door... about 1" away on average. Which is fine, but I'm probably going to have a problem with clearance to the rear wiper arm. There's also not going to be much room behind there for the axe and shovel, I'll probably do something different with them than originally planned. Mount them cross-wise behind the upper part of the tire.
And note, this is what it will look like any time I'm not towing a trailer. No hitch or receiver tube sticking out at all. Just clean for the best departure angle.
