Canadian Disco 2 Build

[R_Lefebvre]

roof rack with a CG 7 feet off the ground

the CG of the rack now shifts 74" behind the rear axle

Now, there is a new guy, Graham Jackson commented that putting fuel on a roof rack is a bad idea.

 

[SeaRubi]

this is so ridiculous. Rob, just build the damned thing and stop posting to this thread. There are the same handful of people heckling you out of boredom. It's just stupid. Everyone in here knows it's not going to matter two sh1ts where you put the spare or the cans. There are plenty of examples of running with cans on the assend, the roof-rack, behind the drivers seat, or any other place you can fit them that's acceptable to the person driving the truck. The rest of this discussion is pure BS. Hanging the spare and 2 jerry cans on tail isn't going to matter in the least. The spare is already back there, the stock bumper weighed something to begin with, and the "google" math major here is so full of ******** his eyes are brown.

damn - get a grip, people! :violent-smiley-031:

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Don't worry, I was in the shop most of yesterday.

My wife is visiting her mom for the weekend and took the kids. The weekend is mine! :victory:

 

[Root Moose]

this is so ridiculous. Rob, just build the damned thing and stop posting to this thread. There are the same handful of people heckling you out of boredom. It's just stupid. Everyone in here knows it's not going to matter two sh1ts where you put the spare or the cans. There are plenty of examples of running with cans on the assend, the roof-rack, behind the drivers seat, or any other place you can fit them that's acceptable to the person driving the truck. The rest of this discussion is pure BS. Hanging the spare and 2 jerry cans on tail isn't going to matter in the least. The spare is already back there, the stock bumper weighed something to begin with...

Quoted for truth.

He's building a rack, not a space shuttle.

 

[LandyAndy]

Don't worry, I was in the shop most of yesterday.

Get some pic's posted then.... too much yack on this thread :gunt:

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Ok then.

Here's the 7 pin trailer connector I found to use. This one is a little nicer than a standard, little more heavy duty, most importantly, has a seal around the cover. My old one kept getting all filled with gunk. Still have to figure the best place to mount this. I'm thinking of putting it in the swing beam instead of the bumper.

Here's where I'm at. This side is finished the metal forming for the corner guard. I have yet to put the side wing on, but that should come soon. I'm just welding it all up first.

I wish I could get a better picture from straight behind but, my garage isn't big enough.

 

[Roverhound]

I like that you got rid of the plastic finishers. I'm doing that to mine soon.
Are you going to trim the lower quarter panel? You should do it now before it gets damaged later and crinkles up the whole thing.
It will happen.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Yes, I plan on trimming the panel and doing a rear-quarter slider. It will be tied to the frame similarly to Michael's. I'm really not sure about the other manufacturers who don't tie the front of the slider to the frame because the rear mounting on the D2 is not very good at all. I can rotate the bumper on the mounts just by leaning on the swing arm when it's opened up a bit. The whole bumper moves. The rear mounts are 4 bolts, all in a line. It can pivot around the bolts like a hinge. And, I've already taken the action of tying the center of the bumper in to the crossmember hitch mounting points. So I've got 6 bolts, 2 of them out of line with the first 4. Still rotates. How can the non-tied rear-quarter sliders take any hit at all without the bumper just rotating up? Now... maybe I just didn't tighten the bolts enough yet, I dunno but... It's surprising.

 

[traveltoad]

Don't make the fit too tight around the corner, the bumper will flex and hit the body.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Yeah, I'm trying to figure out that balance. It's easier to open it up later with the grinder than to put metal back on so I made it tight. There's 1/8-1/4" clearance now, but I'm not sure how much I'll need.

 

[michaels]

rob i'm moving my tire up as well. just haven't found the time. like this:

albeit not that high.

it's greg davis. even the swing away.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Well, I put the tire on the rack, crawled under the truck, and pushed up on the tire with my legs so I could see what was flexing. It's the factory bumper mounting horns! I guess it shouldn't be surprising, they're just flimsy 14ga(ish) sheetmetal. I think the whole thing is pivoting around the 2 central cross-member mounts, and the two frame horns are just giving way.

Shouldn't be a problem as long as I tie the rear-quarter sliders into the frame. I may also tie the bumper into the frame in another place, using L-angle up to the frame mounts for the factory hitch under the gas tank. It'll be part of a whole gas tank skid system.

 

[Alaska Mike]

OK, obviously that's a long lever you're hanging a pretty heavy weight on. Any chance you'd bring it in a little? I'm assuming the extra length is for the gas cans. You could drop the cans a bit and tilt the tire towards the back of the vehicle, allowing you to shorten the arm and maybe reduce the leveraging. I definitely think the tie-in to the frame at another point is necessary.

 

[muskyman]

Rob

I think you would be surprised at how much all the stuff will flex dragging it on the trail. I have stood over a number of brands of bumpers as the tail end gets dragged over the ground or rocks as a truck starts to climb a obstacle and even the strongest designs flex alot.

You are going to need alot more clearence at the body or it will make its own clearence.

 

[Alaska Mike]

Maybe a rubber stopper on the body to prevent a little sway (maybe with a larger backing)? If the stopper is on the swingaway, it would likely trash the paint and dent the door.