Canadian Disco 2 Build

[michaelgroves]

For sure!

Can you tell me what they do with the trailer hitches in the UK? You know what I'm talking about with the C-channel bolted to the bumper, and then a tow ball bolted to that? Do they do anything to brace it in any way? Anything to prevent the thing from becoming a plow? What's the width of the channel they use? I've seen lots of pics of them in magazines, but not the details. Wondering if it's just as simple as it looks.

I think I like that idea better than the reciever tube in some ways. The ability to bolt up a DB tow jaw later, for example. And it looks like a more rigid way of getting a huge drop length without it rattling around.

I'm not sure - the only tow hitches I've had on my Discoverys have been pretty standard ones. I know the things you are talking about, though. I don't like the sound of them because it seems to me there's a lot of leverage twisting your bumper. A couple of struts going forward to the chassis rails would fix that problem.

Btw.. by the pocket and pin thing, do you mean something like this:

(for a Defender, in this case)

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Yeah, I was thinking they'd twist the bumper too. But they're so common. <shrug>. I'll probably just end up doing the receiver tube thing, and struts to brace the huge drop tongue I'll need. Since I need to be able to mount up my motorcycle rack anyway. Of course, now I'll need a crane to get it up there!

Yeah, that's the pin and pocket thing, not sure the proper term. I've seen them on the front of G-wagens:

Got the Tom Woods driveshaft installed. I used the top lock nuts as Musky suggested on the TC case side and had no problem with the length of the factory bolts. At the front I used new Grade 8 bolts, just because. I'm only a little concerned that the shear plane bears on the threaded portion of the bolt instead of a shank.

I took it for a test drive, and no balance problem at all. Runs smooth. I can't tell any vibration difference between the TW shaft installed, and no shaft at all. In fact, now I realize that my front DS was out of balance for a while due to those knocked off balance weights. I wonder if that happened on the rocks? Seems unlikely to knock them both off without any other damage to the shaft?

Now, when installing it, I noticed there is considerable backlash in the front R&P. How much is normal?

 

[muskyman]

you are not feeling the lash in the ring and pinion you are feeling the total lash in the ring,pinion and the side and spider gears. big difference.

the only way to test the lash in the ring and pinion is with the third member out and a dial indicator on a tooth of the ring gear and seeing how much lash there is without the pinion moving.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Just planning a few things out for the future here, maybe the tax refund next spring....

If I want to put an ARB in the back, I know I need new rear axles. I'm liking the Ashcroft axles from Lucky8 and would get the diff there too. But, what about that stock rear driveshaft? Can it take the strain from all that traction in the back? I'm building up with 32-33's in mind for the future.

I need to do something with that rear shaft soon, because that U-joint just ain't looking too good. Obviously it's cheaper to just put a Neapco 1-0005 back there, and carry a spare plus a roto-flex. I prefer to keep the Roto-flex if possible, because it's replacement on the trail doesn't look like a big deal. But I'd rather avoid trailside repair of the U-joint, just just doesn't sound fun to me. So if that thing is *likely* to let go, I'd like to just replace it with a 1300 series. I don't think it would be too expensive to just have that front joint cut off and weld on a new yoke, etc. I don't hear much chatter online about the rear DS.

Anything else I need to think about for an ARB in the back? Anything else need upgrading?

I know I'll need a compressor and air tank. Any reason it has to be the ARB stuff? I already have a decent pump and can make an air tank myself.

Just trying to put a plan together for that stuff.

I'm working on getting my winter beater running so i can put the truck in the shop and start work on the rear bumper soon.

 

[muskyman]

The rear shafts on the DII are not very prone to failure and should be just fine for use with a ARB. I have a close friend that ran stock shafts for more then 2 years with constant rock crawling with a ARB before a rear shaft gave up the game. He was running 265/75/16's and then 285/75/16's during that time. The rear shafts in the DII stock are much stronger then the stock D1 shafts so they are not the automatic replacement item that the D1 shafts are.

You can use any air source you like to engage the locker but make sure you have a blow off valve that limits the top end pressure to 90psi because if you give it anymore you will push the o-ring out of the groove it rides in and it will be cut and fail.

Installation is everything on ARB's. a well installed unit will work problem free for its life. Mess up any part of the install and yopu will have issues that may leave you without the locker on the trail.

Dont forget to upsize the breather as well.

 

[Root Moose]

Rob, West Carleton Automotive in Dunrobin did my ARBs. They do good work.

Some of the guys in the club use Aktec in Ottawa (ask for Ernie). I haven't used them though.

Going to re-gear while you're at it?

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Thanks Thom, then I'll just get the Neapco 1-0005 joint, and a spare, and a spare Roto-flex. What about the... drive flanges? I've seen HD versions for sale?

Chris, I would intend on trying to tackling the diff install myself. I've done it on a FWD car, I'd like to try this. But, I'm not sure yet.... we'll see. I understand it's more complicated because of the pattern. But I also know that... if it can be done by a good DIYer, then I can learn to do it.

I wasn't planning on re-gearing. I haven't felt any want for power with the 4.6, at least not yet. I'm only on 31's now, and I really can't see myself going over a 33, ever.

 

[Root Moose]

I'm not up on Discos but I'd have thought if you have it all apart anyway might as well re-gear to optimize.

I've setup a Dana 44 before. It's not something I do on a regular basis and at this stage of life I really can't be bothered either with the install or getting back up to speed on doing the install.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Yeah, but, money and need... It'd be a stretch for the ARB as it is, and I'm only thinking about it because of the price Justin has on the Ashcroft axles. $1200 or whatever the hell they were before, forget about it.

So, consider another what $3-400, two times for front AND rear, when I haven't really felt the need. Meh. It might be another couple years before I got larger tires anyway. I can do it then if needed.

Torque and tire size, I've been ok. But I've been in plenty of situations where a locked rear axle would help. The worst was a really steep loose soil hill climb, with a wash across it. The LF came way up, all the weight was on the RF and LR, and the RR was spinning and just digging a bigger hole for itself. You have to spin the tires a bit to get TC to engage, but the harder I tried, the deeper the RR dug and the more the truck tilted over. Had to have somebody pull the front bumper down. I shoulda just hooked up the winch line at that point, but I couldn't even pop my seatbelt without falling onto my wife in the passenger seat.

My overall goal with the truck is to keep the CG low, with no roof-rack, low lift and smaller tires. But increase articulation as much as possible, armor up the bottom, and improve traction.

 

[michaels]

FWIW, i'm just going to locker the rear and get rear axles. i'm on 33s and stock gearing. not only can i not justify the extra expense of gears, but i just don't feel the need to regear. it's fine on the highway and around town. a decent engine braking offroad...

i'd rather be locked in the rear and go where i please.

 

[Root Moose]

So are LR gears expensive or something? I don't see what the big deal is for another ~$150 per axle if you are in there already.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Yeah, I think they're expensive compared to other brands (as everything else about the truck). They want $3-400 for gears, per axle.

 

[Geo14cux]

328 per diff for R/P
800 arb

 

[Root Moose]

That's dumb.

 

[muskyman]

That's dumb.

no thats the economy of scale...