If kb7our is willing, we're going to try a camber shim on the left instead. Camber and caster both affect pull, and he's so close to neutral that either should make a difference. Oh his solid axle Jeep, it's way easier to do a camber shim than an offset balljoint for caster/camber.
True, I forgot about that and the caster adjustment flexibility I have on my IFS Toyotas. A camber shim is what Les Schwab Tires typically installs on live-axles Dodges to help with the right pull from Toyo MT tires on those trucks.
Just curious, you're both experiencing right pulls... Redline, did you ever try turning the right tire around on the rim? (Both sides blackwall, right?) If it's tire construction related, and one is running "backwards", then that should fix it.... then again, if you swapped the fronts side to side, the pull should have gone left at that point, and I know you said it didn't. Man, I wish I knew what was causing this. Doesn't make sense that it's the tire if swapping things around doesn't change it, but there's nothing about the alignment that should be causing much of a pull or drift at all. ???
I'm not expreicning any pull, my 4Runner is dialed with 2 degress of cross caster. My Tundra is dialed for ******** Cepek FCII treads (and Mickey Thompson MTZs) with 0.9 degrees. I've considered it being contruction related, tread related, wheel related, etc.
There are many similar posts/threads here on ExPo in older tire threads (approx. 5-6 years ago) with more info about this. Then I was just starting to get a handle on this, I'd previously only owned live-axle 4WDs all my life. Since then I've succesfully used trial and eorror to adjust for diferent tires several times. For the record, about 1.5 years ago Toyo MTs were pulling and/drifting on my '96 F350, a problem I've not had with other tires on that rig; I went back to Maxxis Bighorns.
Maybe
once I tried swapping tires on wheels, but mostly I've swapped tires side-to-side in an effort to diagnose (the Tire Rack has a good tutorial on this), and many of my tires have not been blackwall on both sides.
One thing that it occurs to ask is if the right pull happens if you straddle the yellow line... I wonder if the tall tread is allowing the crown of the road to have more of an effect. The lower profile and lower tread height OEM tires would resist this a little more... ??
BTW, it's a "Pull" if it leaves your lane in less than 3 seconds when you let go of the wheel... If it takes more time than that it's a "Drift".
At least in my case, what I'm talking about and have experienced is much more (and more consistent) than a little pull or drift from the painted lines or a pavement seam on the road.
When the pull has been present, it has been as you note, a lane change in about 3 seconds (sometimes less). Even if it was not that bad, and sometimes it was not... On a level road, without wind (I have much wind where I live), I require a better level of driveability from my rigs on-highways. Four seconds would not be okay, and I prefer 6-10 seconds a straight tracking if I can get it.
