CrabbyMcNab's Adventure with Blunderbuss

[CrabbyMcNab]

For those with the 6.0 that have done the usual engine modifications, what are your boost readings? My scan gauge reads boost between predominately single digits up to middle teens at the most for the briefest of moments. It doesn't really feel like the boost builds to an optimal nor helpful level. Normal for the van?

 

[tgreening]

For those with the 6.0 that have done the usual engine modifications, what are your boost readings? My scan gauge reads boost between predominately single digits up to middle teens at the most for the briefest of moments. It doesn't really feel like the boost builds to an optimal nor helpful level. Normal for the van?

Pretty much normal for the 6.0 period, as far as I can tell. I have two and neither one sees very high boost as a rule. My 6.4 on the other hand will hit 20+ psi just running up the on-ramp. Pulling my camper 40+ isn't unheard of.

 

[stormlover]

For those with the 6.0 that have done the usual engine modifications, what are your boost readings? My scan gauge reads boost between predominately single digits up to middle teens at the most for the briefest of moments. It doesn't really feel like the boost builds to an optimal nor helpful level. Normal for the van?

Actually that seems a bit low. My 6.0 will hit low 20s. I have a 2005 6.0 with a 65rwhp tune and Atlas40 FICM tune but no other real mods that would affect boost. I believe the only way to really mess with boost is more fuel, bigger injectors, and a bigger turbo. By comparison, non-studded trucks will hit high 20s. You might have a hose with a leak.

Also, you will probably produce less boost at higher elevation. Less air=less boost. Maybe? I live at 7,000'.

 

[CrabbyMcNab]

I'm on the east coast and a a couple hundred feet above sea level at best. On the way to work today, cruising at 70 (2000RPMs) I was hovering between 2.5 up to 5.5 measured on the scangauge, this is on a flat interstate with no traffic congestion. Staying at 70 and 2000rpm on a slight incline, I'd get up to 9 or so. Mashing the pedal I got to 14.7 at the highest through gear changes getting onto the interstate. I have the Atlas40 FICM tune, that's all.

I know around town and driving at 70 (2000RPMs), I'm not going to get good MPG, I calculated last tank at 14.3 for what it's worth.

 

[stormlover]

My guess is you've got a leak somewhere. Check the CAC hose. Just a little pinhole can be all it takes. Here's a useful thread from the FTE forum on levels but you should be getting into the 20s, especially at sea level. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/974357-recommended-readings-temperature-and-pressure.html

 

[CrabbyMcNab]

I looked into how to test the system for leaks and seems easy enough. I guess I know what I will be doing this weekend.
Darn, new hoses are expensive for the CAC!

 

[stormlover]

I looked into how to test the system for leaks and seems easy enough. I guess I know what I will be doing this weekend.
Darn, new hoses are expensive for the CAC!

You probably know this already but none of the cool aftermarket CAC hoses like Riff Raff or Mishimoto fit the E series. I found the best OEM prices at http://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/6.0-l-parts/

I have the part numbers if you need them. The are not the same as what is printed on the hose.

 

[CrabbyMcNab]

Got the hose off and found the hose has rubbing. Looks to be rubbed to the "honeycomb" of the hose. When I bend the hose, it doesn't look as if cracks go through to the inside of the hose. Is this enough to affect boost, I don't know? Part number 4C24-6C640-EB is proving hard to find anything on the internet. Is there a particular name for the hose, other than CAC? I should just wrap it in duct tape. Just kidding

I didn't get to the opposite side hose of this pipe as my arms are already cut up getting this far. I did remove the driver side hoses/tube. Everything looks good on the driver side.

Will check the MAP hose as well as the service manual mentions it for low boost possibilities.

 

[stormlover]

A pinhole is enough to do it. I believe you are using the part # that is stamped on the hose. Those are international or the hose manuf. #'s that won't cross-reference. Trust me, I tried and ran into this issue as well. From what you have described I think your hose is the hot side CAC end: 6C2Z-6C640-EA

Either way, unless you mis-typed your hose should have a part # that has a Z in the first 4 alpha-numeric numbers. IE., 4C3Z-6C640-AA or BA or CA etc.

Find a parts breakdown and identify your hose or look it up here: http://parts.autonationfordwhitebea...cat/intercooler-scat/?part_number=6c2z6c646ba

 

[CrabbyMcNab]

Thanks for the schematic. 6C640C is the hose I need, and the link you provided is the cheapest place by a few buck. At least I will get another hose to see if it is the culprit. I don't like the fact that the hose I have now has rubbed through the "outer" layer to the honeycombing.
I pulled all four, and this seems to be the only issue. The rubbing is from the AC line, I need to figure out what I am going to do to prevent this in the future. I'll practice while I have the "beat-up" hose in there.

The MAP hose looked fine, my scangauge isn't throwing a MAP code, so should be OK.

 

[stormlover]

Cool beans. If you call in the order they will take off another 10% or do free shipping if you mention you are a powerstroke.org member. They are a website supporting vendor.

The chafingand/or deterioration from heat of hoses, wires, and fittings seems to be the bane of the 6.0 crammed into the small van engine bay. A mod I'm going to do this summer is heat louvers in the hood.

 

[CrabbyMcNab]

I worked at an auto parts store for 5 years and everyone took pride in knowing what parts the customer needed and learning as much as we could on the mechanics of vehicles. Whether I had to decipher which gaskets, ball joints, pistons and rings were needed by shops or a walk in, I wanted to make sure what was sold was correct. Which kind of irks me when I go to buy parts now and there is another new face behind the counter with zero knowledge or willing to go the extra mile for me. I know it can be difficult and confusing sometimes. I know our eyes may play tricks on us, but if I like to believe I paid attention to what part was sold and what part was delivered.

Kind of a bummer I wait all week to get my CAC hose and the wrong part was pulled and shipped half way across the country. Oh, well. At least the gent on the phone was polite and apologetic for the mistake. Till next week then...That is all.

 

[stormlover]

I worked at an auto parts store for 5 years and everyone took pride in knowing what parts the customer needed and learning as much as we could on the mechanics of vehicles. Whether I had to decipher which gaskets, ball joints, pistons and rings were needed by shops or a walk in, I wanted to make sure what was sold was correct. Which kind of irks me when I go to buy parts now and there is another new face behind the counter with zero knowledge or willing to go the extra mile for me. I know it can be difficult and confusing sometimes. I know our eyes may play tricks on us, but if I like to believe I paid attention to what part was sold and what part was delivered.

Kind of a bummer I wait all week to get my CAC hose and the wrong part was pulled and shipped half way across the country. Oh, well. At least the gent on the phone was polite and apologetic for the mistake. Till next week then...That is all.

By it from the stealership so you have it for the weekend and simply return the one that you eventually get from the online vendor next week back to the dealer. Just a thought. There's a good chance they have it in stock.

edit to add: did you order from Autonation? When I've talked to those guys on the phone they've been quite knowledgeable and also willing to email me schematics. In short, they went out of their way to get me the parts I needed.

 

[CrabbyMcNab]

Well, Fudge. That hose didn't alleviate the problem, with $100 spent. I think the Boost is a little lower even. Max I could get on the way to work was 13.2. Cruising was 4.8 - 5.3. Maybe the rigidity of the new hose is forcing pressure out of a different place?
I saw where you can place a 4 inch plumbers cap (with valve stem) over the turbo and pressurize with about 10lbs of air to try and find air leaks. And, I plan on removing all the foil tape off the hot side aluminum pipe to check for leaks prior to re-wrapping it.

I have the complete cold side, silicone hose to hose ready to go back to the dealership, I don't really want to drop another $100 replacing that if it's not the problem.

 

[frig84]

Just my two cents. I have found that boost in a diesel is usually a good indicator of overall performance of the engine. I have found that low fuel pressure can cause a boost concern. I would check fuel pressure, if you don't find any leaks. Generally low fuel pressure will not cause a code or much of a symptom on a 6.0l other a little white smoke and/or lower boost pressures.