CrabbyMcNab's Adventure with Blunderbuss

[bknudtsen]

The voltage can take up to two minutes to come up to 13 volts. Totally normal function of the alternator. This is why short trips in the van are not recommended, as you are pretty much just running on battery power alone. That FICM main voltage has me worried. Gotta replace that. I have never seen it drop that low during the injector buzz cycle.

 

[CrabbyMcNab]

Thanks for the reply folks. I have the batteries out and charging, will take them to be tested this weekend. I will be getting the FICM out and getting it repaired by FICMrepair next week, May add the additional Atlas 40 tunes.
While I am at it, I was contemplating other usual upgrades, EGR, HPOP, Blue Spring and coolant filter. My thought being, the van is sitting anyway and it's time for an oil change.

My concern is whether to go the EGR delete route, but I would need to get a tuner to electronically delete the EGR engine code. Essentially an almost $400 added expense for the SCT? Or, get a replacement EGR cooler of Sinister's design. Ultimately with the redesigned tube structure, would it get clogged within the next 100,000 miles? I wouldn't need to get the SCT tuner since it's a replacement part. Powerstrokehelp mentioned welding the stock cooler closed, which in essence would be an EGR delete, but I don't recall if it throws a code and needs to have SCT?

The kit being close to $690 prior to shipping from MKM.
Upgraded exhaust will have to wait till next year. Either way, it's going to be an expensive month.

 

[CrabbyMcNab]

Blunderbuss has been here before!

Pulled the FICM today and found a remanufactured unit dated April 2011. Interesting since the van is a 2005.

Spoke with FICMRepair, a remanufactured unit means "previously worked on" which means an additional $50.
Thanks previous owner for this additional gem of using a reman unit.

 

[stormlover]

Sweet rig. Another upgrade you should add to your wish list is a higher output alternator. The stock unit is woefully inadequate for the needs of the 6.0.

 

[CrabbyMcNab]

I was looking and researching the upgraded alternators. I know it is probably in the future, but not before the new year.
Anybody have any experience with the alternators that FICMrepair sells?

As soon as I get the module back and installed, i'll update on the progress made to Blunderbuss (which isn't much)

 

[stormlover]

I was looking and researching the upgraded alternators. I know it is probably in the future, but not before the new year.
Anybody have any experience with the alternators that FICMrepair sells?

As soon as I get the module back and installed, i'll update on the progress made to Blunderbuss (which isn't much)

I have the DCpower 250A. I'm reading 13+ volts within 10 seconds of startup after the glow plugs draw the starting batteries down to 11.

 

[bknudtsen]

If you plan to upgrade the alternator, do it when everything is torn out for the EGR delete/upgrade. Will save tons of effort.

 

[CrabbyMcNab]

Yeah...looking at trying to get the alternator out. I think I might as well move up the egr and hpop and do it all at once. What's another 2 weeks of down time?

Anybody have any discount codes for a kit or recommend any other than the sinister? They have very favorable reviews.

 

[stormlover]

Yeah...looking at trying to get the alternator out. I think I might as well move up the egr and hpop and do it all at once. What's another 2 weeks of down time?

Anybody have any discount codes for a kit or recommend any other than the sinister? They have very favorable reviews.

The Sinister kit is over-priced for what you get and they basically copied the one from River City. http://www.rivercitydiesel.com/inde...uct_details&product_id=110&vmcchk=1&Itemid=54

This is the one I'm going to put on my 6.0psd 4x4 van. http://www.iprresearch.com/IPR-GEN2...-Powerstroke-6.0-will-fit-F250-F350-F450.html

I've trolled all the diesel forums and the IPR kit is highly regarded and most consider it the best. They also make a coolant filter which is highly regarded. Their external oil cooler kit on the other hand not so much. Bulletproof diesel is the way to go for that. I'm not going to go that route and will stick a stock oil cooler in when I do the EGR. Hope that helps.

 

[frig84]

Just looked at the IPR kit you mentioned. If you use that kit, make sure to remove the baffle in the up pipe. There is a diverter installed(welded) into the up pipe on the passenger side to increase EGR flow. It really hurts the flow to the turbo. I have gains, not alot but some by just removing the baffle.

 

[CrabbyMcNab]

Update: I spent two days digging into the motor just to get the the "bottom" where parts can start being replaced. The weather was mid 50's Saturday and Sunday, Saturday had a ridiculous amount of rain. I had to rig up a tarp between the van and truck so I could get into the front of the engine bay without getting soaked. And naturally the weather in MD is starting to swing back around to winter and will be 20-30 this upcoming weekend.

Couple questions this far in the process.

• While removing the secondary fuel filter from the top of the motor, none of the pipe fittings had copper washers, normal?

• I removed the two lines feeding the oil filter housing. I do not have replacement o-rings for these pipes. Visual inspection says they look fine, should I go to Ford and get replacement o-rings?

I'll continue the update after I start putting things back together.

 

[frig84]

Update: I spent two days digging into the motor just to get the the "bottom" where parts can start being replaced. The weather was mid 50's Saturday and Sunday, Saturday had a ridiculous amount of rain. I had to rig up a tarp between the van and truck so I could get into the front of the engine bay without getting soaked. And naturally the weather in MD is starting to swing back around to winter and will be 20-30 this upcoming weekend.

Couple questions this far in the process.

• While removing the secondary fuel filter from the top of the motor, none of the pipe fittings had copper washers, normal?

• I removed the two lines feeding the oil filter housing. I do not have replacement o-rings for these pipes. Visual inspection says they look fine, should I go to Ford and get replacement o-rings?

I'll continue the update after I start putting things back together.

I have reused those o-rings and I have replaced them. It's a preference thing. If you are not pressed for time, I would replace them. I am fairly sure they are the same o-rings as the oil drain back tube on the turbo. The only line that would have copper washers is the fuel inlet line. And that is only if it is using a banjo bolt. Later replacement washers are rubber coated steel.

 

[CrabbyMcNab]

Thanks for the assistance.

And next debacle...Today I got my alternator tested at Advance Auto, failed, DC voltage. I'm looking for a local alternator shop to get a second opinion.

From what I am reading online, there are a few reputable companies who sell upgraded versions for the 6.0. I know the stock alternators and stock cabling is woefully inadequate, but yet again, another expense I hadn't planned on just yet. Cheap certainly isn't the way to go for these as I am a buy once type of guy. Has anyone had experience rebuilding their alternator? I am not electrically inclined, nor have I done it before.

 

[frig84]

On the alternator, the ambo package vehicles run dual alternators. The only difference between a setup like yours and an ambulance is the additional brackets, pulleys, and wires. I would thank it would be fairly easy to add it on, sourcing parts as a kit or from a salvage yard. As far as trying to rebuild yours, it's usually $75-$100 for the voltage regulator and then you put it in yourself. Not to hard if you are mechanically inclined. If not, then I would take this as an opportunity to upgrade to a higher amp alternator.

 

[CrabbyMcNab]

What's your thoughts of upgrading the wires from the alternator to the batteries? Seems folks on the diesel forums swear by the increase capacity of the larger wires.