Oh yes 100% understandable! With 32's you would still be alright, but that would be the BIGGEST I would go though..you will understand the first time you drive it at highway speeds lol. Cruising at to low of a rpm will kill the mileage & it will be gutless.
Merc4x4..thats them. Shoot em a email and ask what all you would need from your donor car. I believe it was something with the glow plugs though..needed a switch & wiring. Maybe more just can't remember it all at this point with a little research in my bookmarks. The oil pan clearence kit is a greatly recommended..you will need it! Or just figure up something yourself...if you can weld & are comfortable with welding then you can do something like this..
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/thread-1962.html
He modified the oil pick up to point to the back of the pan & notched the front of it for clearence!
Use your stock 4.0 starter! You will need 1 for a 5speed. Idk if it matters by the years but I've got one for a 91 5speed thats brand new if your in need! You will need a 4.0 flywheel ect..Skip the autozone clutch. Look for a Luk gold if possible. I've run the autozone, the normal LUK replacement, a centerforce stage 2 & the LUK Gold. So far the LUK gold holds better than the rest. The autozone would slip like mad when wheeling..couldn't take the heat. The Luk will slip or smoke but still hold just fine!
Reliability sake...get the W115 long runner intake..its cheap at a yard or about 150 offline. I would do a full 3" downpipe back if you've got the room, if not a 2.5" downpipe minimum..with just those minor mods, you can turn up the injection pump a turn or 2..and then it'll be pretty maxed out! The motor will be reliable without issue..but the injection pump won't allow for more fuel! That should put you in the 200ftlbs range & it would scoot just fine! And be reliable no issues & have the power lower in the rpm range!
Also to add most tend to agree..and actually some have done some form of testing but not much. Anyway most say that the IP's tend to run leaner & leaner with age, so cranking the IP up won't be an issue..if you see it pouring black smoke then you have too much fuel. Good thing is the IP's are only good for about 200-200ftlbs max. And you will move more than enough air for that, so it won't be an issue.
The ALDA..you can adjust or remove it! Its an emission type deal! It backs off the fuel in low boost situations to prevent the popular "rollin' coal".. There is only 2 turns of adjustment though..anymore and it'll break! Basically if it starts to get tight..don't go further. I would adjust it full rich, to keep it from pulling so much fuel or remove it and get an EGT gauge. So remove it & get and egt gauge & watch it, or adjust to full rich and leave it be. You will not have an issue either way..just know you need a EGT when you remove it!
When taking off you want just a wee bit of black smoke out of the exhaust..not a huge cloud, but a little. Anything more and your wasting fuel..although it is cool to see:drool:
Most tend to agree on a 5speed optioned car its pointless. On the autos however some say it helps to keep the car from jerking off idle by keeping it..others say deleting helps. Either way, on a 5speed most tend to agree if you can watch a EGT gauge you will not have an issue! Plus you gain a little performance by having the fuel when you need it vs having something cut fuel. I would start out by keeping it..and leaving it as is just as you bought it. Do the very few mods to help move air, then adjust it from there. If it becomes a problem then remove it. Simple as pie.
So to give you the run down incase your confused..
Try & replace all the bearings while motor is out of truck!!! Clean it up & paint if you want.
Keep alda & adjust as you see fit..if it becomes an issue - scrap pile:ylsmoke:
W115 n/a long runner intake.
(google threads on porting intake manifold..pretty big gains for 3 minutes of work)
non EGR exhaust manifold, or block it off
Pull & test you injectors!!! Very simple..pop test & clean.
Port both exhaust & intake manifolds. Try and ceramic coat the exhaust manifold & downpipe..even the intake if you've got the coin but the other 2 shouldn't be too much at all.Jethot is fairly cheap! Also you can wrap it and the down pipe..you want to keep as much heat in the exhaust as possible to keep it moving faster..faster = quicker spool!
If your pulling the head, then port it! I would pull it & throw on a new head gasket & port the head..kinda a do it once & knock it out type deals!
Look into a VNT turbo, GT2056V or GT2256V are perfect in low rpm power needs, but still offer the same or slightly more up top but much more down low..if your turbos done or you have the crappier version then just get a VNT..either will suit your needs. The 2256 being slightly better choice. The better stock turbo is a air research which is a garret..but there is another one..can't remember the name!
Get the oil cooler!!!! And possibly look into remote oil filters.
PLUS!
