Your cabin/camper construction really has a lot to do with how much it will put up with, with regard to chassis flex.
And provided you stick to the basic truck camper program, with a traditional 3-point pivot with two pivots up front to limit movement with regards to cab....
You WILL NOT have any side-to-side flopping.
My camper is entirely wood built, stick framed, marine ply & glass. Its awfully tough and terribly rigid, but "delicate"
This setup allows the camper and bed to work together remaining flat (not twisted) as it floats on the 3-point mount.
I would never expect it to provide additional strength to the chassis in order to LIMIT chassis flex.
But nor would I expect ANY sort of camper construction to provide enough strength to do the same.
We run a 2011 Superduty, with the equivalent of a 10' bed. I added about 2' to the rear most frame rails to allow a true 8' bed AND the cross body box.
The frame is much stiffer than previous models, but nowhere near stiff like the fully boxed frames that are used currently.
But looking to run this long term (already have 6 years on this truck & bed)) I would much rather put faith in a heavy duty C-channel frame than a thinner fully boxed frame.
For the record, this camper was built and on the road in 2012 (on old powerstroke). This truck went live with the "new" bed & camper in 2019.
So your mileage may vary, but I would strongly advise a torsion free mount and potentially a pivoting subframe if you are on top of a traditional C-channel frame.
Anything shorter than 6', you are likely okay. But 8' and longer? An absolute YES.
Some photos to show, all photos can be seen here.
Explore this photo album by Kenny Bonnefin on Flickr!
www.flickr.com
Stock stock stock.....
Pivoting subframe + bed
Flex test to check clearances, notice how parallel the bed is to the cab and the lack of parallel of the bed & chassis