Expeditions West 2004 Tacoma

[Scott Brady]

The operating pressure of the ARB is 80 minimum, 120 maximum.

My pressure switch shuts the compressor off at 105 to protect the compressor and the ARB. This is the same way the factory ARB system is designed.

I do think that a mechanical pressure gauge is a great idea though, and would make for a good fail safe.

 

[Scott Brady]

Logos

Here is a quick shot of the new graphics on the hood. There are new side graphics too, but they are not finished quite yet.

 

[Brian McVickers]

Very nice Scott

It's starting to look all professional!!

 

[Scott Brady]

This shows a close-up of the shower cover and water inlet. It is all Rhino lined, which looks pretty stealthy IMO

This shows the tool box (with goodies) installed and the platform in place.

 

[BajaTaco]

The operating pressure of the ARB is 80 minimum, 120 maximum.

My pressure switch shuts the compressor off at 105 to protect the compressor and the ARB. This is the same way the factory ARB system is designed.

I do think that a mechanical pressure gauge is a great idea though, and would make for a good fail safe.

I just looked up an old post that I had on Yotatech when I was installing mine.

" I just talked to WATRD on the phone - he definitely recommends a pressure regulator set at 85 p.s.i. to ensure that the air seals are happy and I don't puke gear oil. I had one in the schematic to begin with, but took it out thinking the ARB would be okay at 85-105 psi (pressure switch). So - the regulator is back in! It will go on the schematic between the press. switch and the locker. "

My diff has indeed puked gear oil on a couple of occasions, and from what I have seen is that it is not all that uncommon with the RD90 in the Tacoma front differential. There is some good speculation on this subject from Lars Dennert.



To quote his website:



" There have been several issues of gear oil being blown out of the front breather using ARB lockers. There are several things that contribute to the problem. Here are my conclusions.

• The breather is too small.
• The breather is too low.
• The ARB is a 4 pinion carrier displacing much more than the stock 2 pinion. The amount of oil should be adjusted downward.
• The ARB carrier is enclosed and that oil could easily be carried over its surface to the top of the diff housing where the breather is. Basically a wave effect. The two pinion has a big hole in the middle. This could be aggravated by the strange angles the truck is sitting at when I really need that locker.
• Toyota may have the fill plug too high. Filling to the hole's bottom puts oil almost over the top of the axles.
• Any dips in the breather line will catch oil and clog the breather system.
• Oil foaming is possible but unlikely.
• It is interesting that I can cause blowout from the breather at the moment I engage the locker though. At first I thought I had a bad seal, but the compressor doesn't cycle. Maybe it leaks air while it transitions states.

I mitigated the problem by filling the gear oil to between 1/2" and 1" below the bottom of the fill hole. I then added a second breather. See Toyota Extended Axle breathers These steps shouldn't be necessary if your ARB and breathers are working optimally. I have since solved those issues. "

I'm not saying you will have problems, I am just saying that it might be worth a call to ARB or an email to Rob. If you just want to go for it and see what happens that's cool, and if you do have any issues at least you are aware of some options. I have found that following Lar's recommendation of filling the gear oil level from 1/2" to 1" below the fill hole has kept mine from puking oil thus far.

 

[bluerunner]

Scott!!!

Sexy was the first thing that came to mind when I laid eyes on the back of your truck! and your new hood decal is heart wrenching!

Very nice! and when will you be offering those to paying members? :chowtime:

 

[Scott Brady]

This shows the battery switch, which allows me to toggle between the main and auxiliary batteries. That way I can monitor the battery charge state, is the isolator is working and the alternator status.

DPDT switch

 

[Scott Brady]

I just looked up an old post that I had on Yotatech when I was installing mine.

Great feedback. I will pick up a pressure regulator today. My Jeep does puke a little oil with the factory ARB configuration.

 

[Scott Brady]

with a big thanks to Bajataco, the front driving lights are installed. I used Hella H4000 driving beam lamps.

I also received the excellent Matador work lamp. This is a trick solution, as it has a built in switch to allow activation outside the vehicle. I will have one wired for a back-up lamp and the other as a side "camp" light. These are tough, cool lights.

 

[Scott Brady]

I was also able to attend to a bunch of details today, including running all of the compressed air lines, system looms, aux. battery 1/0 wire and the new loom to the aux. fuel tank. This will allow me to hook up my front ranger fuel system switch. Running all of the wiring took a TON of time, but it is all coming together.

 

[flyingwil]

Looking Incredibly good Scott! I might have missed something, but I am not understanding how your Ezi-Awn attaches to the Platform. I also want to ask if you needed to add any supports to the bed rails to support the new added weight, for example full water and you and Steph in the tent?

Man, I have to stop looking at this thread it just keeps blowing me away each time I look at it.

 

[Scott Brady]

Looking Incredibly good Scott! I might have missed something, but I am not understanding how your Ezi-Awn attaches to the Platform. I also want to ask if you needed to add any supports to the bed rails to support the new added weight, for example full water and you and Steph in the tent?

Thanks for the kind words Wil

The Eezi-Awn attaches to the platform via a set of four extruded aluminum fittings. The fittings slide into the mounting rails of the tent. You can see the four fittings if you look closely at the picture. I will post more pictures on that in a few days.

Regarding weight. Great point! The rails can easily carry 500 lbs. The key to all of this is that the platform distributes the weight evenly across the rails.

None of the water weight is born on the rails. The water tank and frame mounts to the bed floor.

 

[Desertdude]

Liking those lights! Giving the fact that there are at least three top choices for light sets - what led you to the Hellas?

Are the switched from a remote or direct wire?

 

[p1michaud]

Winch control pack location.

Scott,
I'm a bit suprised to see your winch control pack sitting on your front bumper! :Wow1: I thought that I had read that you were thinking of relocating inside the engine compartment?

As you know, I've recently installed a Warn M8000 and had the control pack termporarily zip tied to the front grill since the factory leads are all of 12" long. Well after two days (one day really because Sunday does not count the stores were closed) I could not stand it. With some help from a friend I made up a simple bracket that fits under the stock battery and bolted the contol pack to it. Here is a quick sketch hope it makes sense.

_ __+_____-__
| | | | Battery |
| | | | |
|_| | |__________ |
|_____________|

The winch control pack on the left, an "L" shapped bracket that goes under the stock battery with the end bent up so it can't slide out and the battery sitting on the bracket. With the battery bracket tightened down it does not move. I'll get some pics.

I then made up some longer leads approx 4' to 5' long and voila the control pack is now under the hood.

Some of the pros/cons I can think of right now are:
1-Keeps people from playing with your winch and possibly damaging the truck (i.e. mischievous people that is). I've read of people using paper clips to operate a winch (have not verified if it can be done, plus you would have to know what you are doing). This could also be avoided by a winch power interrupt kit.

2-Brings some weight back from the front bumper althoug it might be off set with the extra 18' of 2 guage wire used (i.e. over all weight of the controller and wire is greater by about 5 lbs)

3-Hotter in the engine compartment.

4-Less likely to be submerged that on the front bumper.

5-You have to open the hood to use the winch, but that will be remedied via an "In Cab" Winch Controler.

Cheers :beer:,
P

 

[Desertdude]

Not sure about Scotts engine compartment - but I am going to be hard pressed to fit a spot for the control box... That said I have the cables and a remote extension ( secretly sent to me from Warn) ready to install when I can.