Day 2 - Yuma to Mexican Border to Yuma
The blood and sweat had long since seeped into the sand by the time we got there. Sand and dust completely covered the hastily dug graves that had swallowed their occupants -- four hundred of them by the latest count. Now they have disappeared. I wondered if I might be standing on one such grave as I peered into the Tinajas Altas tanks.
The tanks were bone dry, just as so many travelers traversing this stretch of the Yuma Desert, the so-called “Camino del Diablo,” must have found them. My tongue was dry and stuck to the top of my mouth, peeling away from it like thousands of tiny suction cups being freed. I could feel the desert grime baked into my face and neck. The cholla needles I was unable to extract from my shoe dug into my foot, forcing me to shift my weight to the other. I wondered what it would feel like to be one of those whose last sight was the dry tanks nature had built, but had not seen fit to fill with water. Would it have been thoughts of such small detail of the moment or would it be delusions induced by the madness of dehydration and exhaustion?
I won’t know. I had not come by foot through the blistering heat of summer in hopes of striking gold in California. I was not attempting to start a new life in a land of promise to the north. I had come as a tourist. I had come by air-conditioned four wheel drive. I had nearly ten gallons of water no more than fifty yards away. I had come easy and I would return easy. I would never know what these people felt. I treaded carefully back to my vehicle hoping I would not step on any of the unmarked graves.
The day did not begin with thoughts of death. It started with an eternal wait at the rangemaster counter hoping to get permits to cross the Marine Corps range down to the border. While we waited for her, the person at the counter discussed her options for home air conditioning replacement with a repair person on the other end of the phone. Should she just replace the twenty year old broken part? Should she replace the whole system? What would her husband say? She would need to ask him. She just needed to call him really quickly before calling the repair person back. We waited. We waited some more. If only she could decide. I considered weighing in on the debate. I knew it would only prolong my agony. Great palms sprouted from the earth and bore shade. Infants became grandparents. Great empires rose and fell. Finally, she found her way to us. A line had formed and a treatise on work time personal phone calls had been written. Perhaps the day had started with thoughts of death after all.
Since we would be traversing a bombing range to get to our southerly objective, the border, we got to sign our lives away in the permit process. I’m quite sure that I in fact, signed my life away several times over. One such line I initialed in extreme trepidation had the ominous line, “permanent, painful, disabling, and disfiguring injury and death…” I’d say they had their bases covered by that one. Fortunately, there were fourteen more lines of this sort to cover any alternate possibilities the lawyers may have missed with the first line.
With permits in hand, my intrepid navigator and I headed to the entrance of the range, resolving not to become a crater in the landscape. We sped off south hoping to make up time lost at the rangemaster counter spent listening to the inanities of air conditioning coolant considerations. Within minutes we found ourselves precisely in one of those places where visitors become ordinance chum. “What was that sign back there again?” As fast as we got there, we left much, much faster, resolving to pay a little more attention to the signs.
Failing to get blown up, we headed south, where we met the bête noir of our excursion, the cholla catus. The bombs and eternal phone calls seemed like joys in contrast to the evil that faced us. The little devils were everywhere, assaulting us constantly. They would lie in the road, looking like rocks in the bright sunlight. Just as you convince yourself there are nothing but rocks in the road, their little needles and just a hint of green would come into focus. Sometimes we could swerve out of the way and other times there was simply no hope. We would be picking those infernal needles out of our tires with a set of pliers. Perhaps this is the true origin of the moniker “needle nosed” pliers. What I wanted to know was who named these “teddy bear cholla” Teddy bear, seriously? Cholla del diablo is more like it.
After four or five of these needle extraction breaks, we finally arrived at the border. It’s difficult to describe what it was like there. From one perspective, it is nothing more than a tall, rusty fence marking an arbitrary line in the middle of the desert. There is something almost silly about it sitting in the middle of what could only be described as wasteland. In that moment, it was hard to imagine any other soul ever seeing it, as though a monument had been built for nothing in particular. There were no signs of life for as far as the eye could see.
Simultaneously, there were thoughts that this fence was so much more. You could almost feel that here were two countries pushing against each other. One could almost imagine the fence heaving back and forth as a struggle ensued. I wondered if the Great Wall or Hadrian’s masterpiece had elicited these same sensations to their contemporary visitors. I let those contemplations fade and listened to the sound of my footsteps as I walked freely north, back to the vehicle. From here our trip would truly begin, from one great man made barrier to an even greater barrier carved by nature some six hundred miles from us. Let it begin.
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Images from Day 2
Herein lies "permanent, painful, disabling, and disfiguring injury and death?"
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Swiss Cheese, Barry Goldwater Style
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How Did They Do that?
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A Thorny Issue
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Bete Noir
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Glimpse of Sunlight
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Hadrian's Wall
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Pourous Border
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Alone
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End of the Line
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Up Ahead
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Omen
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Up from Dry Tanks
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Water