Hey Vortec Guys! / Sierra pickup / Suburban / Yukon etc - Finally has Index!
- Thread starter rayra
- Start date
Ok. That’s comforting. Spending more money on gas because it is what I have is one thing. Missing potential efficiency is another. Thanx.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mighty Dodge Ram
Explorer
I’ve got an ‘02 model longbed. Enjoy it for what it provides...payload and comfort. I’m assuming it’s 4WD. If you start messing with a lift that’ll just lead you down the rabbit hole of complexity and $$$. You can fit 33s with a small amount of torsion bar adjustment...just level it. With your “relatively” short wheelbase they’ll take you just about anywhere. Be prepared to lose the sidesteps.
rayra
Expedition Leader
The leveling kit won't really add much tire clearance. The squared shape of the GM fender openings doesn't really help that, when you're adding an inch or two. Takes a much more costly fuller lift to put much bigger tires on. @Stryder106 might have some good info in that regard.
The mpg, similar low numbers in my 1500 / 5.3. I've got a lead foot. Only thing that helps is keeping RPMs down as close to 2000 as I can stand. But that only results in +1-2mpg and it's just not worth it to me. I'm only driving it about 5k mi / yr. That's less than $250/yr difference for me. $20/mo. meh.
Stryder106
Explorer
You can run 33"s without doing anything to it really. If you want to run a 35" tire it needs to get leveled up and bigger. I did NOT use a lift kit because they are all either too high or not sturdy enough. I'm surprised a 2011 has torsion bars? I thought GM went away from those in 2007. Having said that, I do have torsion bars - I used 2.5" leveling keys and my front shocks are bigger than stock. In the rear I have Eibach H2 progressive rate springs and bigger shocks. To fit 35s I had to do some slight fender trimming, obviously my front bumper is no longer an issue, and had to cut back one layer of sheet metal in my firewall (there are 3). My philosophy is as high as necessary, as low as possible due to CG considerations. Also note that NONE of my suspension components are stock anymore - they are all purpose built for my truck.
As for your RTT - I wouldn't lower it. What happens when you lower it is you lose the ability to walk under it and use the awning effect and shade it provides - and also rain. You have a Tepui - they are pretty light weight - you could easily remove it if you have long stints between trips.
As for MPG - it is what it is. @rayra said it best - RPM management. If I try to run at 2400RPM I get 13.6 MPG, but if I keep it at 1900-2000 I can get 18 MPG. Sometimes that's hard to do on a 7 hour drive. I have 4.88 gears so 2000rpm for me is 60mph.
As for your RTT - I wouldn't lower it. What happens when you lower it is you lose the ability to walk under it and use the awning effect and shade it provides - and also rain. You have a Tepui - they are pretty light weight - you could easily remove it if you have long stints between trips.
As for MPG - it is what it is. @rayra said it best - RPM management. If I try to run at 2400RPM I get 13.6 MPG, but if I keep it at 1900-2000 I can get 18 MPG. Sometimes that's hard to do on a 7 hour drive. I have 4.88 gears so 2000rpm for me is 60mph.
Mighty Dodge Ram
Explorer
“Leveling” is a relative term. For some reason I was assuming britome was talking about 33s...that’s a size I’ve considered. With the stock 4.10 gearing on the 2500HD 33s are at the limit of the recommended gearing range. (I’m assuming here, my model year came stock with Tonka Toy tires sized 245/75R16 ?♂️) Much past that and the rabbit hole includes re-gearing to maintain driveability. His mpg already sucks, watch what happens with bigger tires. YMMV
Love the insights. I need to double check my tire size. I know before I put new Fox shocks on the truck, the BFG’s that I upsized from stock wore a hole in the plastic on the backside of the front bumper.
Larger tires would give me more peace off-road but I’ve already done Imogene with this setup and am concerned about greater mpg loss in addition to another variable for when I tow.
My other temptation is taking out a rear leaf for a softer ride and adding airbags for when I need the weight capacity.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Larger tires would give me more peace off-road but I’ve already done Imogene with this setup and am concerned about greater mpg loss in addition to another variable for when I tow.
My other temptation is taking out a rear leaf for a softer ride and adding airbags for when I need the weight capacity.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
TroySmith80
Adventurer
Great thread, although unbearably long!
What tools do you guys carry for these rigs?
I've got a 2001 Yukon and am starting to do some light offroading with it. Sometimes I take a whole 50 lb toolbox, sometimes that seems like overkill and I don't carry any tools at all. The problem is that I haven't done much work yet on my rig and I don't have a feel for what the right selection of necessary tools are to bring with me. I'd like to assemble a tool roll that will be compact and quiet and have most of what i'm likely to need and nothing that I won't ever need.
Primarily I suppose I'm asking about which fastener drive sizes are common, and which are completely unneccessary, and any other special tools I might want, spares too. I will put together a kit of utility tools like pliers, snips, zip ties and utility wire, duct tape and electrical tape, etc.
Also, on a side note, for the love of god please talk me out of swapping my yukon for a Range Rover classic, or Discovery I/II! The yukon is totally practical and satisfactory, but not very inspiring. I'm really feeling the LRs right now but i'm sure the ownership experience would suck! I really miss the classic feel and vibe of my old vanagon westy (with subaru swap) and am yearning for something with character, but trying to remind myself how many things about the westy drove me crazy and why i sold it.
What tools do you guys carry for these rigs?
I've got a 2001 Yukon and am starting to do some light offroading with it. Sometimes I take a whole 50 lb toolbox, sometimes that seems like overkill and I don't carry any tools at all. The problem is that I haven't done much work yet on my rig and I don't have a feel for what the right selection of necessary tools are to bring with me. I'd like to assemble a tool roll that will be compact and quiet and have most of what i'm likely to need and nothing that I won't ever need.
Primarily I suppose I'm asking about which fastener drive sizes are common, and which are completely unneccessary, and any other special tools I might want, spares too. I will put together a kit of utility tools like pliers, snips, zip ties and utility wire, duct tape and electrical tape, etc.
Also, on a side note, for the love of god please talk me out of swapping my yukon for a Range Rover classic, or Discovery I/II! The yukon is totally practical and satisfactory, but not very inspiring. I'm really feeling the LRs right now but i'm sure the ownership experience would suck! I really miss the classic feel and vibe of my old vanagon westy (with subaru swap) and am yearning for something with character, but trying to remind myself how many things about the westy drove me crazy and why i sold it.
Serious over landers are actually unanimous on what is the best overland vehicle. The best overland vehicle is the one that will get you home. That will definitely NOT be a Land Rover. I speak as a guy who has watched my buddy’s Landrover Defender have a problem Every single trip. As well as a nephew who is a service manager for LR and other friends who have used the most luxurious models and regularly scratch their heads on reliability and cost.
Your Yukon has nothing in common with a LR and that is a good thing. It will always get you home.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
rayra
Expedition Leader
A good general selection of tools will serve well enough. Really not having any trouble with things breaking or falling off these trucks. They're decently engineered for what they are. The only design flaw I've found is the damned offset / cantilevered upper bracket on the plastic radiator tank. Lots of miles of a washboarded roads seemed to have caused enough rattle and flex that my tank cracked right below the bracket / upper hose connections. So bring one of those radiator epoxy repair kits.
The rest is the usual GM garbage mix of SAE and metric bolt sizes. So you have to carry both if you are going to carry any.
What's really needed are several blocks of 2x6 if you will be relying on the stock bottle jack. It doesn't have a lot of useful lift in an off-road situation.
The rest is the usual GM garbage mix of SAE and metric bolt sizes. So you have to carry both if you are going to carry any.
What's really needed are several blocks of 2x6 if you will be relying on the stock bottle jack. It doesn't have a lot of useful lift in an off-road situation.
TroySmith80
Adventurer
Hmm, wondering if i'm a dummy now... i haven't done much wrenching on my yukon yet but i thought i remembered using only metric tools. All i've done so far is clean out the throttle body, IAC and intake manifold, and replaced the rear driver side axle seal. I was really hoping I wouldnt need metric and SAE.
jgaz
Adventurer
GM actually started the metric switch in 1977 with the B and C bodies. I was a dealer mechanic when this occurred.
Many of the front suspension components were the first to switch. Anyone remember the widespread need for various 18mm tools? I needed new, specialized, wrenches to access the UCA cross shaft nuts when adding or subtracting shims while doing an alignment.
As the process went on you could figure that if a bolt went into a tapped hole in a casting such as a engine block or head, it would be a std thread fastener. If it threaded into an accessory such as an alternator, or PS pump it would be metric.
As @rayra said, for years many vehicles were half and half. You needed twice as many tools to change a water pump on a small block Chevy!