Isuzu npr 4wd

gator70

Active member
In Utah, So Cal, Arizona, New Mexico, and Baha sur, the days get 90-95F. A/C is necessary at night after the sunsets.

I needed two battery circuits for this engineering.

1) For one interior light and the 12v refrigerator
2) The main at 600 amp hr to keep the A/C running until 4 am after sunset.
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
4 awg - 13 ft
You obviously size cabling very differently than I do...

At 80 amps with 4AWG wire that is 13 feet long (actually 26 feet, as you need to calculate using both positive and negative) you will get a voltage drop of 0.52 volts, which is 3.92%.
That is beyond what I would consider acceptable, especially when driving a motor, which is what an AC compressor is.
This will also be a continuous load, not an intermittent load, so I am guessing that your wiring is going to get pretty hot when running at full load.

All of my camper wiring has been designed to have less than a 2% voltage drop and most of the wiring that powers a motor is around 1% (fridge, actuators etc.).
As the voltage drops, the current increases, as the load tries to draw the power it wants. If the wiring is undersized this additional current draw will result in more heat being generated.
Also, if your cabling is run inside your walls, or inside conduit, then you need to derate the current capacity of the wire, as any generated heat cannot escape as easily.

My main concern with this unit is the size of the cabling you need to run to it.
The setups that I have seen with this specific AC unit have used much thicker cable that you plan to use, hence my original comment.
 
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gator70

Active member
You obviously size cabling very differently than I do...

At 80 amps with 4AWG wire that is 13 feet long (actually 26 feet, as you need to calculate using both positive and negative) you will get a voltage drop of 0.52 volts, which is 3.92%.
That is beyond what I would consider acceptable, especially when driving a motor, which is what an AC compressor is.
This will also be a continuous load, not an intermittent load, so I am guessing that your wiring is going to get pretty hot when running at full load.

All of my camper wiring has been designed to have less than a 2% voltage drop and most of the wiring that powers a motor is around 1% (fridge, actuators etc.).
As the voltage drops, the current increases, as the load tries to draw the power it wants. If the wiring is undersized this additional current draw will result in more heat being generated.
Also, if your cabling is run inside your walls, or inside conduit, then you need to derate the current capacity of the wire, as any generated heat cannot escape as easily.


The setups that I have seen with this specific AC unit have used much thicker cable that you plan to use, hence my original comment.

Thanks for the comment

This is the AWG recommended, and also the same stub cable mounted on the unit

I think your math is based on the fuse, not the actual amp load

Based on most folks use, 45 amps is the draw in the boost mode, while 19 amps is the draw in the eco mode.

Boost mode is rarely run for more than 20 minutes duration.

While eco mode is run most of 65% of the time

Not concerned
 

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gator70

Active member
Done

(I will use wires for portable solar panels - due to forest and tree campsites)

These four season designs pack so much equipment inside the heated area, a storage compartment was necessary. I will build a floor and shelves in that big box, with aluminum tube.
The box is supported by a welded steel frame on the underside, attached to the frame attached to the composite floor. My guess, the strongest in the industry.

Custom brackets (12) attach the habitat floor frame to the rig subframe. A full 24 each, 1/2" grade eight bolts.

Behind the storage box is a custom bumper with a swing away spare tire carrier, now requiring two hinges due to the weight.

This is built custom to my engineering specs, for a Isuzu crew cab, NPR 4x4

We estimate total length at 24,5 feet, with a tighter turning radius than a Sprinter 170.

Built for extended stays of 14 days, on BLM land

1735318441847.png
 
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mog

Kodiak Buckaroo
I bet you are happy it is done and ready to ship (y) Has Lianyungang Leisure Camper given you a time frame on shipping from Zhengzhou to Shanghai (maybe Lianyungang ?) and then on to the USA? I'm guessing the shop that built your subframe will install the camper (via: crane, jacks, or ?) and then you should be ready to go? It will be awesome to see the finished rig. The color is great, especially with the black, and the roof rack looks great. And two awnings, nice.
 

gator70

Active member
I bet you are happy it is done and ready to ship (y) Has Lianyungang Leisure Camper given you a time frame on shipping from Zhengzhou to Shanghai (maybe Lianyungang ?) and then on to the USA? I'm guessing the shop that built your subframe will install the camper (via: crane, jacks, or ?) and then you should be ready to go? It will be awesome to see the finished rig. The color is great, especially with the black, and the roof rack looks great. And two awnings, nice.

Thanks for the comment on the color. (honestly) I was not sure. I live in a area with intense sun. And White yellows over time. I thought this might lose some pigment, but a lighter color in 10 years is still not bad.

Most of the metal work and subframe is done by a few local welders off CAD drawings I supply.

There was a good amount of engineering work in this, and even the design of the habitat. I gave specs that was far from a stock configuration. Even down to the Starlink wall port.

I had intense arguments with the factory electrical engineers, as they were not educated enough. In the end I got exactly what is required, but it was painful.

Originally I was planning on building this all myself. I got to old while planning.
 
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gator70

Active member
A website worth checking out if you haven't already is Vantripping.com he is building a camper and has been documenting each stage with pretty detailed video's of how he went about cutting his pass-through.

Building a cab to camper pass thru on an expedition camper

Thanks, I know about this. He bought a kit from the supplier of his rig. (earthcruiser passthrough frame)

About 95% of what he discusses is the habitat. Mine is done already. (see above)

My challenge is the rear of the truck cab.
 
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Ferjablito

Active member
I don't know exactly how the colleague would have solved the entry of dust from the road, I prefer the system with bellows
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
If your passthru is only for emergency use, I would simply use two separate doors.
This would also negate any issues related to articulation between the cab and the camper body.
Given that you have a luton peak, there would not be any weather related issues traversing between the cab and camper if they were not connected with a bellows.
Keep it simple!
 

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