Isuzu npr 4wd

I based that comment on your very blurry photo, hence the word "likely".

Yea, the fuse / switch panel with a combination of 110 vac, 12v is fairly standard. See Bluesea. However this approach is not the only "quality" approach. And I see many of theses panels at the floor or close to the floor. Not necessary the best location.

Hence my analysis.
 
Generally speaking its not worth converting a level 2 charger down to 120V. While free ones do exist, most charge a decent amount per hour.

Regardless, it's not very courteous to sit at a level 2 charger, running at ~2kw of charging for hours. As an EV owner I would be quite angry if I needed to charge my vehicle, and there was some giant RV taking up two spots, charging their house battery. Double so if it was a free public charger.

If you are putting the effort in to allow using a level 2 charger, then install a 220VAC battery charger that can accept at least 5kw of input. Level 2 chargers scale up to 19kw, but most are in the 10-15kw range. If your battery/wiring can't handle that level of charging, then you probably shouldn't bother trying to connect to level 2 chargers.

Not to mention few want to spend half a day sitting in some suburban parking lot, especially when they have a full featured camper along.
 
Generally speaking its not worth converting a level 2 charger down to 120V. While free ones do exist, most charge a decent amount per hour.

Regardless, it's not very courteous to sit at a level 2 charger, running at ~2kw of charging for hours. As an EV owner I would be quite angry if I needed to charge my vehicle, and there was some giant RV taking up two spots, charging their house battery. Double so if it was a free public charger.

If you are putting the effort in to allow using a level 2 charger, then install a 220VAC battery charger that can accept at least 5kw of input. Level 2 chargers scale up to 19kw, but most are in the 10-15kw range. If your battery/wiring can't handle that level of charging, then you probably shouldn't bother trying to connect to level 2 chargers.

Not to mention few want to spend half a day sitting in some suburban parking lot, especially when they have a full featured camper along.

Sitting at a parking lot while working on a starlink mini for your employer remote sounds fine to me. Especially if it is on a bad rainy day and the solar panels yield little.
 
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Sitting at a parking lot while working on a starlink mini for your employer remote sound fine to me. Especially if it is on a bad rainy day and the solar panels yield little.

Go for it I guess. But behavior like that will get RVs banned from level 2 charging stations. I have seen it happen in a few communities already. Folks feel entitled, and then we all loose the privilege.

In my opinion, if you want to sit all day and work remote, and need power, pay for a freaking campsite with power. It contributes to the local economy, and doesn't give vehicle dwellers a bad name.

Better yet, don't waste time and money on a level 2 charging setup until you have some experience using the vehicle. You may find you don't need it all.
 
Locating the subframe and habitat on the truck frame had its own issues. The rear spring brackets tuck inside the very end of the subframe just before the crossmember. That seems simple yet, the location on the truck frame is in a narrow available space.

View attachment 901502

Upon further calculation this location is behind the subframe altogether 8 1/2 inches. The truck frame rails were always known to be 6 inches longer than the habitat. Therefore rather than extend the habitat, we added a large rear storage box 18 inches deep with a frame below it. We wanted this rig to be about the length of a MB Sprinter 170. (about 30 inches shorter than a F550 build)

And the habitat four season design lacked interior storage. As water tanks and batteries consumed storage space. The rear storage box was designed with a collection of what we wanted to carry. We organized the items in a theoretical space, and then created the storage box size.
 
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