ITTOG's Truck Camper Build (was 6' x 12' Trailer Conversion)

[ITTOG]

Time: 10 hours
Total Time to Date: 289.5 hours
Rework: 0 hours
Total Rework to Date: 79 hours (not part of time above)
Current Weight: To be weighed, but at least 660 pounds


These family commitments are making it hard to make progress but I was finally able to make a little. I did some bondo work and was able to get the back skin on the camper.

I began by sanding the first coat of bondo glass on the camper. As you can see I do have good bondo coverage but I have some spots where the metal shines through. So I may have to do three or four coats to get the desired thickness.


This is the curb side. A bit more metal showing through so I was not consistent on my thickness but this side was the first time I had ever used bondo.


This is the street side and after the second coat of bondo was applied. I used a little less hardener and was able to get this coat a little thicker and smoother.


The primary reason I did not have time to put skins on the side is because I decided to attach my VHB tape to bare metal. This decision was made because I ran a test and the tape held strongly on the paint but I was able to roll it off without the tape tearing or leaving residue behind. This was not the case on the metal. On the metal the tape would tear and I was not able to roll it off. Thus I had to sand off some of the paint and then had to do a major cleanup before applying VHB tape.


These pics show all of the VHB tape applied to the camper.






The leading edge of the skin near the bondo will slide into the groove in this pic. This is to ensure wind and rain will never be able to get underneath the skin when driving 85 mph down the road.


After applying the skin to the camper I lightly applied pressure using bars and clamps to ensure I get solid adhesion with the VHB tape. It also helped thin the Sikaflex 252 appropriately.

 

[ITTOG]

I custom ordered angle and other shaped pieces to help seal up the corners of the outside of the camper and the top of the camper (not roof). These are 16 gauge steel. I do not want to have them sandblasted. Anyone know the best way to clean and paint? What products should I use. The metal currently has some surface rust but otherwise never cleaned or protected.

This will be on the bottom of the roof so that when it is closed, it covers the weather stripping from the wind.


This will be on the camper. The 1" part will be on the outside going over the skin and the 3/4" part will be on the inside of the camper and the vinyl will connect to it.


This will be on all the corners wear the skin meets and needs to be sealed.

 

[ITTOG]

Time: 11.5 hours
Total Time to Date: 301 hours
Rework: 0 hours
Total Rework to Date: 79 hours (not part of time above)
Current Weight: To be weighed, but at least 700 pounds


For the amount of work I put in there are not many pictures. My last update showed all of the VHB tape on the camper. I added Sikaflex 252 as well. Most of the work was figuring out how to put the skin on without it getting stuck to the VHB tape and not being able to move it. I devised several methods dependent on the panel but I will tell you it was very difficult and one of the panels was almost destroyed but I got lucky. Anyways, on to the pictures.

Starting to get the skins on the camper. I can't wait to be done so I can remove the protective wrap.






You can see in this picture some of the VHB tape on the top left. Thus you will notice my skin is not the full length of the camper. The camper is 12 feet long and the skins are 5' x 10'. Thus, I had to add an additional skin.


Instead of butting the edges and putting metal over it like FWC does I decided to cut some of the polyethylene core out and overlap the skins. This picture shows my first attempt at cutting the core out. Unfortunately as you cut the core it makes the metal want to bend up and therefore I cut completely through the skin. Take two was successful.


It is difficult but if you look between the black skin and the latch you can see a bulge in the skin, this is where I overlapped the skin and attached it using VHB tape and Sikaflex 252.


This pic is from the top and if you look closely you can see where the two skins butt up together and then where the overlapped skin is, to the left of the butt. The overlap is about 2.5".


Different angles with all of the camper skin on. Next will be the roof or finishing the Bondo.

 

[Andrew_S]

Holy smokes that's a lot of work in a couple of posts. Nice work!
I can't wait to see this thing sitting in the truck fully popped up. What a unit.

 

[ITTOG]

Holy smokes that's a lot of work in a couple of posts. Nice work!
I can't wait to see this thing sitting in the truck fully popped up. What a unit.

Yeah I got excited to get it skinned. Now to get it finished. However deer camp and the holidays are going to get in the way.

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[ITTOG]

Time: 6.75 hours
Total Time to Date: 307.75 hours
Rework: 0 hours
Total Rework to Date: 79 hours (not part of time above)
Current Weight: To be weighed, but at least 700 pounds


I finished drilling all the holes for the rivets attaching my lift stabilizers to the camper and roof. Just a simple drill, grind smooth, touch up paint. A total of 40 holes. The hinges in the middle had already been completed previously.


Sanding can sure make you dirty. This is a combination of removing paint from the roof frame and exterior trim and removing Bondo, which were black and white respectively. It sure makes a mess. Luckily, no more paint sanding required. I will have more for Bondo as I continue to add layers. Unfortunately I think I removed too much this time.


I put the bottom of the cabover on the camper. As you can see, there is a lot of clamps in use. Now the camper is completely skinned. Next is to skin the roof.




I let it dry overnight and then proceeded to stand on the skin, from the top side. The aluminum composite flexed a little but the combination of VHB tape and Sikaflex 252 didn't budge at all. It held it very secure.


Before I can skin the roof, I had to drill holes and remove some paint on these trim pieces. These will be welded onto the roof frame and will hang over the weather strip (seals) to prevent windblown rain from entering.


This side profile shows how the trim angles out away from the camper and then down to cover the weather strip.


The wife sent out her inspector. I don't know if I got a passing grade or not. She looks a little concerned in the second pic.

 

[Mekcanix]

hows the hip holding up?

 

[ITTOG]

hows the hip holding up?

They are doing well. I was released to begin a running program about a month ago. It is slow going but improving. Thanks for asking.

Yesterday I had a small follow-up procedure on my right elbow so it will need some time to heel but it should be fast. It is a broken vessel I maintain.

 

[ITTOG]

I am not able to work on the camper due to elbow surgery Tuesday but I did start looking at the trim.

Here I have clamped the roof drip edge that will cover the weather strip when the top is down. I hadn't decided for sure if I was going to use it but I believe I will because I think it looks very clean. Without it, you would just see the weather stripping.

This pic shows the profile of the drip edge. I will weld the corners so water is not able to penetrate and to ensure a finished look.

In this pic you can see the drip edge and to the right of the blue tape you can see the piece I plan to use on the top of the camper frame. It will serve two purposes: it will prevent water from getting between the camper and the skin and on the inside of the camper the canvas will attach to it.

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[ITTOG]

Time: 19.25 hours
Total Time to Date: 327 hours
Rework: 0 hours
Total Rework to Date: 79 hours (not part of time above)
Current Weight: To be weighed, but at least 700 pounds


I didn't get a lot done because I had to stay with light weight work. So I welded the drip edge onto the roof. It flairs out and over the weather stripping and a little over the camper. You can see how it overlaps in the pic below. I have the sides and front welded on.


I have to trim the drip edge before fitting it onto the back of the camper due to the drip edge I installed over the door. Looks like I will have to trim 1/4' to 1/2" off.


These pics show different views of the drip edge welded on. The part that isn't black will have VHB or Sika 252 applied to it to adhere the skin on the roof.






This shows the roof on the camper and the string represents where the drip edge will be. This is a trim of 1/4".


This is a trim of 1/2", which I think is what I like best.


The underside of the roof with the drip edge welded on.

 

[ITTOG]

Continued from above.

Transitioning to the trim cap on the camper. This trim prevents rain from getting between the frame and skin. There is also VHB tape between the skin and frame. On the inside, the vertical tab on the trim is where I will attach the vinyl wall.


Another angle with the trim cap on the camper.




Here I have already welded the rear drip edge onto the roof. You can see how it is about 1/2" shorter. I have also installed the rear skin, with a bar clamped over it. I also have the side skin in position to permanently install.


Here I have all the skin on and have the skin overlap clamped down so the Sikaflex 252 can cure. At this point all the skin is on the camper and roof.


With the blocks removed you can see I need to trim the skin now. You can also see the trim on the top of the camper, just the bottom of it, and the drip edge from the roof that hides most of the trim on the top of the camper.

 

[ITTOG]

Time: 8 hours
Total Time to Date: 335 hours
Rework: 0 hours
Total Rework to Date: 79 hours (not part of time above)
Current Weight: To be weighed, but at least 700 pounds

As I was preparing to install the lift stabilizers I realized they are going to interfere with the trim on the camper.


Just to verify I tried to raise the stabilizer. As can be seen it will not go straight up so I will have to move the hinge to eliminate the interference.


After moving the hinge back about 1/2" the interference has been addressed. I did not move the placement of the hinge on the roof because there is no trim to interfere there. I wonder if that will be a problem?




It was time to get the roof skin on the roof. I decided to use VHB tape. Here you can see I am putting the tape on the skin and the roof. I thought this might help the overall seal of the roof? May not help but definitely wouldn't hurt.


All the VHB has been installed.


I didn't think of taking pictures of the install of the roof skin. Here you can see it is already on.


I left the skin with extra material on all four sides. I think I am going to bend them down before putting the angle iron on. This should further seal the roof and the angle iron will hide the bent portion.

 

[ITTOG]

...continued from above.

It feels good to get the lift stabilizers and the gas struts installed and have the roof lifted. It has been a while since I had it all installed. The roof is a little over 34" above the camper. This measurement is between the top of the camper frame and bottom of the roof frame. One thing I noticed while the roof is up is the distance between the two points was not uniform at the four corners or the middle of the camper. The measurement ranged from 34 1/8" to 34 7/16". Thus a delta of 5/16", which seems excessive. I feel like it should be within 1/8" max. I will investigate this more.


The lift stabilizer at the front. I still need to fabricate something to lock it in place so it cannot collapse.


The lift stabilizer at the rear. Like the front, I need to fabricate something to lock it in place.


Just a different angle of the roof up.






Raising and lowering the roof is very difficult. The struts can easily handle the weight. The problem is I have to lift one end at a time. When doing this, it pushes the opposite end of the roof out and it is damaging my hinges. In this pic you can see how it is wavy and has some gaps between the frame and the hinge. In the next picture you can see it is uniform without gaps and has not been damaged.




I tried to rig up some straps to prevent this but it didn't work. If I drop the front then it now pushes the roof to the front. So opposite of what it did without straps. I am not sure what is going on. I am wondering if it is doing this because the roof is so high above the camper????? Or, recall earlier I mentioned I had to move the hinge on the lift stabilizer on the camper. I wonder if it would help if I move it the same 1/2" on the roof. I don't feel like it would, but am I wrong??? I have to figure this out because the stabilizers are hitting the roof skin and over time could do damage and it will probably tear the canvas.


Final view of the roof lifted up.

 

[ITTOG]

I have spent a couple hours trying to raise and lower the roof in different ways and unfortunately cannot resolve the issue. I believe I have a few options at this time, which are remove the gas struts and use four linear actuators, add two linear actuators in the middle of the roof, or add two additional gas struts on one end.

• Adding four linear actuators is pretty straightforward. The worst part about that would be the holes left on the outside of the camper. But they can be covered.
• Adding two linear actuators in the middle of the roof, most likely on the inside, would be used in conjunction with the gas struts. The purpose would be to raise and lower the roof linearly all at once. The key is you are not lifting one side at a time.
• Adding two additional gas struts would be installed opposite to have the existing gas struts on one hand. The goal, would be that the end with four gas struts would raise vertically without pushing the roof to one end. Not sure if that would work?

Anyone have any thoughts on these ideas?

 

[Pacific Northwest yetti]

I have spent a lot of time in pop up campers. My own Outfitter of course. As well as hundeds of FWc's and OEV' campers.

Both those have a roof you just push up manually and come down the same way. I will say the OEV roofs, do come down front forward or rearward when doing so. Depeding on what side you drop first. And can need a small nudge to sit on the seal. Most the time with the fan out and door closed they come down where needed.

FWC do the same, both use a board. FWC uses a longer hinge. OEV uses a short hings and springboard.

Struts not matched to weight and placement, when workng on both of them can bugger things up.

For OEV and FWC the fabric is a large component of the stabilization of the roofs coming down and going up.

Im sure you will get a system figured out!