ITTOG's Truck Camper Build (was 6' x 12' Trailer Conversion)
- Thread starter ITTOG
- Start date
ITTOG
Well-known member
Doing well, thanks. Trying to muster motivation for applying caulking, which I hate.
ITTOG
Well-known member
Time: 8 hours
Total Time to Date: 362 hours
Rework: 0 hours
Total Rework to Date: 79 hours (not part of time above)
Current Weight: To be weighed, but at least 700 pounds
I was bored one evening so I decided to make a temporary floor to stop twisting my ankles walking on the camper frame so I threw down some insulation and cardboard on top of it. The final floor will have the insulation and most likely PVC wood flooring as long as it is lightweight.
Nothing you haven't seen before but it is always good to get the roof up.
Welding the roof trim together. All of the trim on the roof and the camper is welded to create a pseudo exoskeleton. In addition the trim is glued on with Sikaflex 252.
The drip edge on the roof is contacting the gas struts so I am having some spacers made for the struts and the latches that hold the roof down. I have ordered new gas struts that lift 100 pounds each. I am hoping this will make it easier to open the roof. The current gas struts are rated at 50 pounds each. Even though the roof only weighs about 150 pounds the current gas struts are not capable to lift it very well due to the angle they are positioned.
Here you can see the front of the cab over section showing the panels and trim. As you can see I have some painting to do on the trim room but overall I think it will look good. I have thought about painting the trim gray instead of having two different shades of black.
I completed adding all of the Sikaflex to the roof. I used painters tape to control the excess Sikaflex. I let it cure for about 30 minutes and then pulled the tape off. It worked perfectly.
The front mounts for the camper will use eyebolts through the frame and turnbuckles to attach it to the truck bed. The first step was to cut out a pocket in the insulation for access to install the nut on the eyebolts.
Both eyebolts are installed.
The inside showing the eye bolt and nut. You cannot see it but I placed 3/16" steel over the 1.5", 16 gauge tube to prevent it from deforming when tightening the nut.
Total Time to Date: 362 hours
Rework: 0 hours
Total Rework to Date: 79 hours (not part of time above)
Current Weight: To be weighed, but at least 700 pounds
I was bored one evening so I decided to make a temporary floor to stop twisting my ankles walking on the camper frame so I threw down some insulation and cardboard on top of it. The final floor will have the insulation and most likely PVC wood flooring as long as it is lightweight.
Nothing you haven't seen before but it is always good to get the roof up.
Welding the roof trim together. All of the trim on the roof and the camper is welded to create a pseudo exoskeleton. In addition the trim is glued on with Sikaflex 252.
The drip edge on the roof is contacting the gas struts so I am having some spacers made for the struts and the latches that hold the roof down. I have ordered new gas struts that lift 100 pounds each. I am hoping this will make it easier to open the roof. The current gas struts are rated at 50 pounds each. Even though the roof only weighs about 150 pounds the current gas struts are not capable to lift it very well due to the angle they are positioned.
Here you can see the front of the cab over section showing the panels and trim. As you can see I have some painting to do on the trim room but overall I think it will look good. I have thought about painting the trim gray instead of having two different shades of black.
I completed adding all of the Sikaflex to the roof. I used painters tape to control the excess Sikaflex. I let it cure for about 30 minutes and then pulled the tape off. It worked perfectly.
The front mounts for the camper will use eyebolts through the frame and turnbuckles to attach it to the truck bed. The first step was to cut out a pocket in the insulation for access to install the nut on the eyebolts.
Both eyebolts are installed.
The inside showing the eye bolt and nut. You cannot see it but I placed 3/16" steel over the 1.5", 16 gauge tube to prevent it from deforming when tightening the nut.
Mules
Well-known member
Man I haven't checked your build out in a while. Great progress! It's looking great.
ITTOG
Well-known member
Thanks. The end is taking forever.
ITTOG
Well-known member
Time: 2 hours
Total Time to Date: 364 hours
Rework: 0 hours
Total Rework to Date: 79 hours (not part of time above)
Current Weight: To be weighed, but at least 700 pounds
There isn't a lot to update but I did do a few things. First up is cutting ports so I can access the turnbuckles in the bed of the truck. These are 6" ports.
Next was to get a floor in because I am tired of the uneven surface. I have to cut the frame into the 2" foam. So the first job was to paint the top of the tubing and then quickly putting the foam down so the paint will transfer onto the foam.
I didn't paint the entire frame but you can see a good outline.
I cut the edges of the frame into the foam with a circular saw and then cut the horizontal part with a hot knife. It worked fairly well. Using the circular saw is faster and gives straighter lines, assuming you are paying attention and being careful.
The foam is in. The four rectangles is access to holes that line up with the truck bed bolts. So the front will be turnbuckles and the middle and back will use the truck bed bolts. There are also four smaller bolts at the back of the floor (top/by the door) so I can bolt the rear lift mechanism to the camper.
I wanted to protect the foam so I put a couple layers of cardboard boxes down.
Total Time to Date: 364 hours
Rework: 0 hours
Total Rework to Date: 79 hours (not part of time above)
Current Weight: To be weighed, but at least 700 pounds
There isn't a lot to update but I did do a few things. First up is cutting ports so I can access the turnbuckles in the bed of the truck. These are 6" ports.
Next was to get a floor in because I am tired of the uneven surface. I have to cut the frame into the 2" foam. So the first job was to paint the top of the tubing and then quickly putting the foam down so the paint will transfer onto the foam.
I didn't paint the entire frame but you can see a good outline.
I cut the edges of the frame into the foam with a circular saw and then cut the horizontal part with a hot knife. It worked fairly well. Using the circular saw is faster and gives straighter lines, assuming you are paying attention and being careful.
The foam is in. The four rectangles is access to holes that line up with the truck bed bolts. So the front will be turnbuckles and the middle and back will use the truck bed bolts. There are also four smaller bolts at the back of the floor (top/by the door) so I can bolt the rear lift mechanism to the camper.
I wanted to protect the foam so I put a couple layers of cardboard boxes down.
ITTOG
Well-known member
My new gas struts arrived last night. Unfortunately I won't be able to install them and test them out for a couple weeks due to a ski vacation starting tomorrow. Ugh, it is going to be tough to wait and see if they higher lifting weight solves the problem of the roof shifting when opening.
ITTOG
Well-known member
Well my last elbow surgery was yesterday. It will probably be a couple weeks before I can work on the camper again. I received all the parts I needed to finish the trim and the hardware attachments on the outside of the camper so should be able to finish it soon. Once that is done I will rebuild the door and then it will be time to get the canvas made.
May you have a quick and complete recovery!
ITTOG
Well-known member
Thanks. It should be. Last surgery scheduled so hopefully I am good for a few years. That surgery wrapped up a 11 month stretch with six surgeries. Wow.May you have a quick and complete recovery!
You are welcome.
... Wow, yeah, hopefully your last surgery for quite a while.
ITTOG
Well-known member
Time: 9 hours
Total Time to Date: 373 hours
Rework: 0 hours
Total Rework to Date: 79 hours (not part of time above)
Current Weight: To be weighed, but at least 710 pounds
First on the agenda was installing the 100 pound gas struts to see if they corrected the problem I was having with the roof shifting. Unfortunately it did not, the same issue exists. It also created a new problem. I couldn't lower the roof. Not even if I put all my weight on the roof. Soooooooooooooooooooooooooooo, it may require a shift to linear actuators. I don't really want to change but may not have a choice. This obviously sets me back on time and cost and I am not even sure that won't cause other problems like having to build new lift stabilizers and the new power requirements. Since I don't want actuators on the outside of the camper I will have to install them inside. I know actuators on the inside will interfere with my bed.
I received the last of my exterior trim so I moved outside the camper to finish the back trim work. I already had the two pieces on the outside edge. This work involved trimming the door jamb and the bend, which required a 141 degree bend.
After tacking the trim together I took it off to finish welding it. I have the trim balancing across a pipe for a clamp. So the bar in the middle of the door obviously won't be there on the trim.
I had some 5/16" spacers made for my clamps. The spacer is to prevent the clamps from interfering with the trim from the roof that goes over the top of the camper. First time I have had the clamps on.
The spacer on the bottom of the clamp needs a notch on the top of it because it overlaps the camper top trim, which doesn't allow it to sit flat.
I haven't really touched on my tools or consumables but figure I should talk about the gloves I have been using due to finding a great pair. I started off buying these gloves and they work for most basic things but they definitely do not work with a grinder or welder because the threads used to sew these gloves together suck. Every pair have failed due to the threads breaking and then seams opening up.
So I decided to cough up the big bucks and try these gloves. Wow, are they so much better than the previous brand. I have used these welding and grinding and am still on the first pair. I figure they have lasted about three times as long as the other gloves and they are still going strong. So I highly recommend these gloves.
Total Time to Date: 373 hours
Rework: 0 hours
Total Rework to Date: 79 hours (not part of time above)
Current Weight: To be weighed, but at least 710 pounds
First on the agenda was installing the 100 pound gas struts to see if they corrected the problem I was having with the roof shifting. Unfortunately it did not, the same issue exists. It also created a new problem. I couldn't lower the roof. Not even if I put all my weight on the roof. Soooooooooooooooooooooooooooo, it may require a shift to linear actuators. I don't really want to change but may not have a choice. This obviously sets me back on time and cost and I am not even sure that won't cause other problems like having to build new lift stabilizers and the new power requirements. Since I don't want actuators on the outside of the camper I will have to install them inside. I know actuators on the inside will interfere with my bed.
I received the last of my exterior trim so I moved outside the camper to finish the back trim work. I already had the two pieces on the outside edge. This work involved trimming the door jamb and the bend, which required a 141 degree bend.
After tacking the trim together I took it off to finish welding it. I have the trim balancing across a pipe for a clamp. So the bar in the middle of the door obviously won't be there on the trim.
I had some 5/16" spacers made for my clamps. The spacer is to prevent the clamps from interfering with the trim from the roof that goes over the top of the camper. First time I have had the clamps on.
The spacer on the bottom of the clamp needs a notch on the top of it because it overlaps the camper top trim, which doesn't allow it to sit flat.
I haven't really touched on my tools or consumables but figure I should talk about the gloves I have been using due to finding a great pair. I started off buying these gloves and they work for most basic things but they definitely do not work with a grinder or welder because the threads used to sew these gloves together suck. Every pair have failed due to the threads breaking and then seams opening up.
So I decided to cough up the big bucks and try these gloves. Wow, are they so much better than the previous brand. I have used these welding and grinding and am still on the first pair. I figure they have lasted about three times as long as the other gloves and they are still going strong. So I highly recommend these gloves.
Mules
Well-known member
Your camper looks great! I'm curious about the back door design. Is it a one piece or two piece design with steps?
ITTOG
Well-known member
Thanks. It will be a one piece with the hinge at the top. Below are some pics showing the door and with it open. I haven't had the door on in a long time so these are old photo's.
