Patman
Explorer
Factory capacity is supposed to be a whopping 3 lbs.
Jeep Wrangler Habitat Official Release
- Thread starter elcoyote
- Start date
Factory capacity is supposed to be a whopping 3 lbs.
DingusKahn
Adventurer
Propane Tanks
I measured the two smaller tanks. The 5lb is about 8-1/8 inch in diameter and the 11lb is 8-7/8 inch in diameter. So not the same, but close.
3 lb VW tank is not even worth a look.
DK
I measured the two smaller tanks. The 5lb is about 8-1/8 inch in diameter and the 11lb is 8-7/8 inch in diameter. So not the same, but close.
3 lb VW tank is not even worth a look.
DK
Martyn
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
The issue with carrying propane inside a vehicle is storage and temperature. If the temperature inside the vehicle get extremely hot the propane can expand and pop the pressure release valve. You would then have gas in a confined space which would be dangerous. General guide lines are to leave the vehicle well ventilated and cool. Remember that the temperature inside a closed vehicle in direct sunlight can become excessive. The tank should be stored vertically, and secured well.
The propane brackets we make for the JK are for securing the tank during transportation, not for long term storage. We recommend that the tank be removed from the vehicle when being used with the stove, and not used as permanent storage for the tank.
It's a matter of common sense here, when transporting propane make sure the vehicle is well ventilated and the interior temperature of the vehicle kept cool. In a nut shell don't park in direct sunlight with the windows rolled up. The same thoughts you have when you transport animals.
Remember that it's also not recommended to store propane cylinders inside your garage or home, store them outside.
As far as I know Mississippi is the only State that has regulations against carrying propane inside a vehicle or RV. Some Eastern States have regulations on the amount of propane that can be transported through tunnels.
The propane brackets we make for the JK are for securing the tank during transportation, not for long term storage. We recommend that the tank be removed from the vehicle when being used with the stove, and not used as permanent storage for the tank.
It's a matter of common sense here, when transporting propane make sure the vehicle is well ventilated and the interior temperature of the vehicle kept cool. In a nut shell don't park in direct sunlight with the windows rolled up. The same thoughts you have when you transport animals.
Remember that it's also not recommended to store propane cylinders inside your garage or home, store them outside.
As far as I know Mississippi is the only State that has regulations against carrying propane inside a vehicle or RV. Some Eastern States have regulations on the amount of propane that can be transported through tunnels.
AZUnlimited
Adventurer
Any progress updates on the Habitat?
kb7our
Explorer
AT Habitat Slide Out Stove Wind Screen Feedback
Wind screen prototype saw heavy use in Big Bear this week. Here are some considerations for production.
Shorten height 1/3 to 1/2 on all 3 sides - unless I am missing something I don't see why it needs to be so tall. Material thickness seems perfect for lasting quality and good rigidity. Add 3 additional hinges, one to each tapered side and one to the back so that the screen will fold small to fit into the stove slide out storage area where the regulator and hose are stored. Keep other aspects of the screen the same - it fits nicely with the stove grate holding it in place. I found that either of the tapered sides can be folded against the back to accomodate larger pots and the other side can be kept open for an "L" shape to hold the screen in place. So, make it shorter unless there is a compelling reason to have it so tall, and add 3 hinges to get it more compact so it fits in the slide storage area. Seems worth a try.
Wade
Wind screen prototype saw heavy use in Big Bear this week. Here are some considerations for production.
Shorten height 1/3 to 1/2 on all 3 sides - unless I am missing something I don't see why it needs to be so tall. Material thickness seems perfect for lasting quality and good rigidity. Add 3 additional hinges, one to each tapered side and one to the back so that the screen will fold small to fit into the stove slide out storage area where the regulator and hose are stored. Keep other aspects of the screen the same - it fits nicely with the stove grate holding it in place. I found that either of the tapered sides can be folded against the back to accomodate larger pots and the other side can be kept open for an "L" shape to hold the screen in place. So, make it shorter unless there is a compelling reason to have it so tall, and add 3 hinges to get it more compact so it fits in the slide storage area. Seems worth a try.
Wade
Martyn
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Wade, thanks for the feedback. Did you manage to take any pictures?? I'd love to see them.
All good ideas, the screen is the size it is because it is a part already in use with other stoves.
Are you saying add a third hinge or add three more hinges? Either way it's more labor and parts. Have to weigh cost vs design.
kb7our
Explorer
Have to laugh because the only pics I have probably aren't going to do you much good! Forgot my digital SLR so only had BlackBerry and then it went dead before I could do some close up stove pics. I even used my Fox oven on the stove and it worked great - you can see this in the JK pic where I am using the screen in an L shape to accomodate the oven.
If you cut off about half the height the screen seems like it would still be fully effective blocking wind where it needs to. Consider actual height of the screen to be cut just a tad shorter than the front to back "depth" of rear drawer area where regulator and hose are stored so the folded screen can also store there. That saves a lot on material. Then yes, add 3 new hinge points to the current 2, so that the back can fold in half and so each tapered side can fold in half. Then you have a unit that still works with other stoves but also folds compact enough to fit into the combo fridge/stove slide drawer. Another option is figure a way to slot parts together for a compact fit in the stove drawer.
I might cut out an Origami version using a sheet of constuction paper to convey my thoughts better later in the week.
If you cut off about half the height the screen seems like it would still be fully effective blocking wind where it needs to. Consider actual height of the screen to be cut just a tad shorter than the front to back "depth" of rear drawer area where regulator and hose are stored so the folded screen can also store there. That saves a lot on material. Then yes, add 3 new hinge points to the current 2, so that the back can fold in half and so each tapered side can fold in half. Then you have a unit that still works with other stoves but also folds compact enough to fit into the combo fridge/stove slide drawer. Another option is figure a way to slot parts together for a compact fit in the stove drawer.
I might cut out an Origami version using a sheet of constuction paper to convey my thoughts better later in the week.
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Martyn
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Wade, I should warn you, I'm a black belt Origami :sombrero:
DingusKahn
Adventurer
My plan for that space is the house battery and the Heat Source heater.
But if you have room in the engine compartment for the house battery, water would be good. There are sites that will sell you any size of tank you can imagine. Can't find the link right now, but they made over 200 different shaped tanks.
DK
Yeah that's a good idea. Plenty of room to run dual batteries in there. Here is an even larger tub replacement http://www.jeepswag.com/jeep_jk_storage_tub_enlargement/index.htm
I was just thinking it would be smart to put the water down there considering the stove/fridge and drawer will be covering up the tub. Then relocate the heater into a custom storage compartment that would fit over the wheel well. You could run dual batteries in the engine bay... Depending on what size battery you're using.
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kb7our
Explorer
Until my AT stage 2 storage unit with water bladder is ready, as you can barely make out in the JK pic above (click it to see it then click again to enlarge), I temporarily mounted a Front Runner 10G tank to the top of my stage 1 drawer storage using all existing mount holes. It worked well this week as a reliable gravity fed system with a quick release hose reaching to the tailgate storage tray for filling up a pot or whatever with water. I'll probably sell the tank and home made Herculined mount shelf once my stage 2 is in place. Basically I took a piece of plywood cut just larger than the tank dimensions, Herculined it, added 2 square aluminum rails across the bottom left to right for support, removed 4 top bolts from the storage drawer and replaced them with longer bolts to hold the new platform in place. Close up pics to follow but will probably post them in the for sale section within a few weeks. This setup makes an excellent option for a gravity feed system although with a bit higher center of gravity than where the drawer sits on the JK floor.
I did consider the SWAG JK trunk before deciding on the Warrior Products version. Both are good products although I decided on the Warrior for my purposes - where I mounted a Propex.
I hope we get another Habitat update soon.
I did consider the SWAG JK trunk before deciding on the Warrior Products version. Both are good products although I decided on the Warrior for my purposes - where I mounted a Propex.
I hope we get another Habitat update soon.
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Something like this would be perfect for the Habitat...
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/61948-Swing-out-arm-for-side-awning
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/61948-Swing-out-arm-for-side-awning
Martyn
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Unfortunately it needs to be mounted to a roof rack to articulate around the end of the vehicle. We checked it out already.
What about a roof rack minus the rack on top? Like an exterior cage. Attach mounts at the bottom of the windshield w/ a hoop over the top of the windshield, then tabs at the top of the hoop that run down the side of the hardtop/flippac right above the door line, then a hoop over the rear windshield that mounts to the rear bumper or side of the body panels behind the rear fender. Then an option to remove everything except for the windshield hoop so you can have a light bar that can fold down or spot lights.