Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Thank you.
Jeepster Commando Build - A Different Sort of Jeep Thing - Stoffregen Motorsports
- Thread starter Stoffregen Motorsports
- Start date
Really nice work, the Commando’s are one of the most under appreciated early Jeeps but your build should change a lot of minds. Glad I got mine while they were still cheap!
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
I have always been aware of that, but the reason I don't get. First off, the body is so much more roomy than any CJ. Second, the hard top isn't difficult to remove and has massive windows for great visibility. Last, the frame of the Jeepster is much much more stout than a CJ frame. Especially the section at the front of the rear leaf springs which is double walled, fully boxed and triangulated like crazy. Also, the outboard leaf springs make it easy to make ride height adjustments. I think the Jeepster is far superior to an CJ. There, I said it.
And thank you.
givemethewillys
Jonathan Chouinard
Wheelbase is 103" if I remember correctly
Smileyshaun
Observer
I’m sure he could just build a new frame and 4link both ends and make it look cleaner than any factory setup ever has
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Frame swaps used to be an attractive solution, but I have since changed my opinion. I now try to retain the factory frame whenever possible.
Speaking of link suspension, this Jeep does not need it, and I feel it would detract from the character. You may have read above that I compared this to a hotrod build. If you think of how the mechanical design affects the overall type of build with a hortrod, then you'll understand why we kept the original frame and leaf spring suspension. Hotrods have been built with IFS, IRS, beam axles, radius rods, leaf springs, beam axle with coil springs - you name it, it's been done. And each design lends itself to a particular style, which was the target from the outset. So by swapping leaf springs for links and coils, it may improve the offroad capabilities, but that's not what we are shooting for.
Speaking of link suspension, this Jeep does not need it, and I feel it would detract from the character. You may have read above that I compared this to a hotrod build. If you think of how the mechanical design affects the overall type of build with a hortrod, then you'll understand why we kept the original frame and leaf spring suspension. Hotrods have been built with IFS, IRS, beam axles, radius rods, leaf springs, beam axle with coil springs - you name it, it's been done. And each design lends itself to a particular style, which was the target from the outset. So by swapping leaf springs for links and coils, it may improve the offroad capabilities, but that's not what we are shooting for.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Happy New year everyone! Now back to work!!!
I have made some progress on the Jeepster, but the holidays always get in the way of real progress. The dash is near complete and the switch panel has been machined and fitted with switches. I think you'll like what we've done. Before the trans tunnel gets built, I'm going to go ahead and do the wiring. Seems an odd time for that maybe, but having that hole in the floor that I can fit up inside and access the underside of the dash...Man that makes it so much easier.
Pics hopefully today, but yeah, progress.
I have made some progress on the Jeepster, but the holidays always get in the way of real progress. The dash is near complete and the switch panel has been machined and fitted with switches. I think you'll like what we've done. Before the trans tunnel gets built, I'm going to go ahead and do the wiring. Seems an odd time for that maybe, but having that hole in the floor that I can fit up inside and access the underside of the dash...Man that makes it so much easier.
Pics hopefully today, but yeah, progress.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Back to work!!!
The Jeepster is dangerously close to going to the painter's shop, with only a few things left to knock off the list. Still focused on the dash and transmission tunnel area, but then another complete mock up of the front body panels will get done, in order to build the intake tube/air filter box, plus any electrical items that need to be mounted, then the radiator grille. I detest drilling holes after paint has been applied, so a lot of forward thinking is needed to make sure I'm not forgetting anything.
The dash is basically complete, with the entire HVAC system mounted as well as the ECM, electrical fuse panel, FBW throttle pedal, brake and clutch pedals, and (hopefully) all holes drilled/cut in the firewall for wires and plumbing. The center of the dash was cut out and a new panel cut, bent, welded, and metal finished was welded in place of the old speaker grille and radio area. The new panel houses the Retro Sound head unit, the Vintage Air HVAC controls and the A/C vents. There is also ample room for addition of future switches, but hopefully it will never come to that (keep it simple...) Here are a few pics of that.
The Jeepster is dangerously close to going to the painter's shop, with only a few things left to knock off the list. Still focused on the dash and transmission tunnel area, but then another complete mock up of the front body panels will get done, in order to build the intake tube/air filter box, plus any electrical items that need to be mounted, then the radiator grille. I detest drilling holes after paint has been applied, so a lot of forward thinking is needed to make sure I'm not forgetting anything.
The dash is basically complete, with the entire HVAC system mounted as well as the ECM, electrical fuse panel, FBW throttle pedal, brake and clutch pedals, and (hopefully) all holes drilled/cut in the firewall for wires and plumbing. The center of the dash was cut out and a new panel cut, bent, welded, and metal finished was welded in place of the old speaker grille and radio area. The new panel houses the Retro Sound head unit, the Vintage Air HVAC controls and the A/C vents. There is also ample room for addition of future switches, but hopefully it will never come to that (keep it simple...) Here are a few pics of that.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
We also machined up a new billet aluminum switch panel to mount the headlight and wiper switches to the left of the gauges. The overall shape and fit is the same as the original bezel, but as mentioned earlier, the original switches would not be easily wired up with the new wiring harness, so it was decided they would be deleted. One aspect of the new switches that concerned me was the lack of any labeling. Call me crazy, but I like to know which switch I have my hand on before I pull or twist it. Going with the classic Corvette theme (Corvette engine, Corvette style steering wheel, exterior body color very similar to Corvette Nassau blue...) some vintage GM chrome switch bezels were sourced, but, they did not fit the switches. Instead of gluing them onto the panel, I decided that machining a pocket for them into the switch bezel would center them on the switch and also look great. They sit just about .060" deep into the switch panel.
Here are the pics of the new switch panel.
Here are the pics of the new switch panel.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
For some reason, my browser is not showing all the pics I've loaded. Let me know if you guys are experiencing the same problem.
Back to the Jeepster.
With the new gauges in hand, the entire dash was assembled with all accessories present. Yes, there is a mix of chrome and black going on here, but my plan is to have everything match. The knobs for all switches, including the stereo, HVAC controls, headlight, wiper and turn signal, to be painted or powder coated in an ivory color, just like the original Jeepster color. The pocket inside the switch panel will be coated in satin black to match the gauges, steering column and HVAC fascia, and then the outer rim of the switch panel and the HVAC control panel will be polished. Note that the gauges are set in cardboard for now, as I have yet to come up with an idea for a nice looking yet easily removable panel, but you get the idea.
Back to the Jeepster.
With the new gauges in hand, the entire dash was assembled with all accessories present. Yes, there is a mix of chrome and black going on here, but my plan is to have everything match. The knobs for all switches, including the stereo, HVAC controls, headlight, wiper and turn signal, to be painted or powder coated in an ivory color, just like the original Jeepster color. The pocket inside the switch panel will be coated in satin black to match the gauges, steering column and HVAC fascia, and then the outer rim of the switch panel and the HVAC control panel will be polished. Note that the gauges are set in cardboard for now, as I have yet to come up with an idea for a nice looking yet easily removable panel, but you get the idea.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
I am currently working on the transmission tunnel, which is a challenge. True to form, it will also be simplistic. I am designing it to accept a console, should we decide to go that route, but will still look good without one. The challenge right now is the location of the shifters. The trans shifter is high and close to the dash and will require a custom bent shift lever to not hit the dash during shifts, and the transfer case shifter location is low and just a few inches behind the trans shifter. So there will be a steep drop down between the trans and t-case shifters, and that's where I'm hung up. Hopefully I'll have an AHA moment today and it will all come together. I am also having trouble sourcing a stock Dana 300 shift stick, so we may have to go with twin sticks, which will complicate things even more. Anyone have a D300 shifter they don't need?
Ideally the top of the trans tunnel would be removable, but I may forgo that in the name of simplicity. There is plenty of room underneath the tunnel to access anything atop the transmission, and if heavy duty service is required, the trans can be dropped or the body removed. Yep, it only really take about 3 hours to remove a body tub from a running, driving vehicle as simple as this.
My original plan was to have all wiring done before the trans tunnel went in, but my wiring guy got sick. Maybe I'll make the tunnel but not install it until he gets well.
Pics of the trans tunnel coming soon.
Ideally the top of the trans tunnel would be removable, but I may forgo that in the name of simplicity. There is plenty of room underneath the tunnel to access anything atop the transmission, and if heavy duty service is required, the trans can be dropped or the body removed. Yep, it only really take about 3 hours to remove a body tub from a running, driving vehicle as simple as this.
My original plan was to have all wiring done before the trans tunnel went in, but my wiring guy got sick. Maybe I'll make the tunnel but not install it until he gets well.
Pics of the trans tunnel coming soon.
zgfiredude
Active member
Pics are working for me........very nice work on the dash!!