I agree a detached piece of Velcro would work as well for securing the excess end of a strap, but I sewed the slot in it so it can't get lost - it'll always be on the strap when I need it. The slot doesn't prevent the Velcro from being positioned where needed on the strap because it slides along the strap but it does prevent the Velcro from getting lost.The Velcro wrap method is a popular means of accomplishing the same thing on backpack straps. I use them often, and they work well. There’s really no need to sew anything though - they hold fine as a simple wrap.
Thanks for taking the time to make and demo those. I agree on the steel G clips as well and great idea with the strap keepersI picked up a roller cam buckle to see how well they work. I sewed a strap with it and with G-hooks on either end as a test.
On the rack:
These buckles hold very well, they seem to hold better than the non-roller variety. With the roller buckle and the G-hook ends these are very useful straps.
A couple of caveats though - I only sewed one strap so far, and securing something like the slippery and heavy (when full) military Scepter container shown above really would need two straps crossed over it to secure it well, so don't take my photo above with one strap as a recommended practice. The G-hooks I used are aluminum and I think under very heavy loads they might bend, so I think the best practice for G-hooks would be to double-wrap the end, that way there's almost no stress on the hook:
The G-hooks I used are aluminum, for heavier loads steel hooks would be stronger. Here's a source for heat-treated steel G-hooks which would probably be much stronger than the aluminum ones I used: https://www.rockywoods.com/G-Hook-wave-1-Slot-Size-Heat-Treated-Steel-Berry-Compliant
For many heavier things I think I'll still prefer ratchet straps, but roller cam buckle straps seem to be a good option for all but the heaviest stuff.
One thing that always bothers me about straps - what to do with the loose end? I came up with something to keep the excess end of the strap under control. It's a pretty simple piece of Velcro One-Wrap sewed so it can slide over any strap; once the excess strap is folded the One-Wrap is used to secure the excess - I'll call it a "Strap Keeper"...
In this photo the excess strap is contained by the Strap Keeper:
The Strap Keeper on the sewing table:
I plan to make Strap Keepers for all of my ratchet straps - I can never figure out what to do with the loose ends after I secure something with them and the Strap Keeper solves that problem very nicely.
BTW here's a source for roller cam buckles if anyone wants to sew their own (they also sell premade straps): https://www.rollercam.com/shop/rollercam-buckle. Another source for premade roller cam buckle straps is Multus: https://www.multusproducts.com/search.php?search_query=roller
Thank you. Under the Murphy's Law corollary "Whatever Can Get Lost, Will", I'm going to make up Strap Keepers like the one I posted for all of my straps and slide them onto the straps so they're always ready for use .Thanks for taking the time to make and demo those. I agree on the steel G clips as well and great idea with the strap keepers
I use that, too. If you work with it just a bit it will fit inside the rubber weatherstripping without anything to hold it like suction cups. In the front and back I use ready made windshield sunscreens, the back one being a large for a full size truck. It’s a total blackout in there.In the August issue of Land Rover Owner, regular contributor Vicky Turner has a DIY article on making insulated blinds for sleeping in her Land Rover.
Typical British humor:
Seems like these could be useful for people who sleep in their Jeeps, and maybe Ursa Minor owners, and since it took me a few reads of the article to fully understand what she did I'll summarize/paraphrase the article here.
She made the blinds out of mylar-foil covered insulation. She used something like this, which can be found at Home Depot and Lowes:
She attaches her blinds with suction cups. She used cups with threaded studs on the back like these found on walmart.com:
The suction cup studs go through holes in the blinds. The holes are reinforced with eyelets like these, also from walmart.com:
She trims the edges with duct tape. In this closer photo you can maybe make out how the duct tape edging works and you can see one of the suction cup studs through an eyelet in the lower right corner:
Seems like a pretty simple project. Maybe something like this will be useful to someone here.
I tried to keep the wheelbase at JKU length because that's what something like this might be built on. And the overhang ended up being better that way.What does the interior layout look like?
Looks like you shortened the rear overhang a bit. The overhang on the LR is substantial, and makes off-road travel with this barn a challenge.
What does the interior layout look like?