Los Angeles -Class Attack Sub(urban), Build / Collected Werks topic - '02 k1500 Z71
- Thread starter rayra
- Start date
rayra
Expedition Leader
Yes, very much so. I like the look / fit of them and two long panels of that type would be a natural for this deck. But I was primarily interested in having a portable / folding panel kit for several other reasons.
I do have a business idea for after I relocate to TX, involving a portable woodworking shop in an enclosed trailer. That will definitely be covered in thin-film panels. Partly inspired by Paulk's designs -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUuxBv32BoE
A lot of the things I'm doing with portable workbenches, all the 'house' electrical modifications for my Suburban are essentially long-lead research and practice for those future plans. Besides being useful right now. I was just using the inverter to run a circular saw with a masonry blade, this weekend
I do have a business idea for after I relocate to TX, involving a portable woodworking shop in an enclosed trailer. That will definitely be covered in thin-film panels. Partly inspired by Paulk's designs -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUuxBv32BoE
A lot of the things I'm doing with portable workbenches, all the 'house' electrical modifications for my Suburban are essentially long-lead research and practice for those future plans. Besides being useful right now. I was just using the inverter to run a circular saw with a masonry blade, this weekend
rayra
Expedition Leader
Considering this TV wallmount armature as a base for the solar panel roofmount. I'd add a skeletal cradle to it, which the folding panel would nestle in. Then craft the roof mount as previously described but with enough vertical room to encompass the armature. Idea being to release the roof mount then lift and orient the panel to the sun for maximum solar energy capture.
Just need to find out if the 15deg range of motion of the TV-mounting plate is fixed in relation to the swivels in the armature. If the 15deg tilt spins with the 360deg head, I'm in business. Or maybe I re-engineer it so the 360deg plate is at the base, on the roof deck instead. So the whole armature spins, then the axis of the 15deg tilt doesn't matter as much. I'd want to be able to park the vehicle in any orientation and be able to aim the panel right at the sun.
https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=16128&seq=1&format=2
https://images.monoprice.com/productlargeimages/161281.jpg
The following diagram seems to indicate the +/-15deg tilt is fixed in relation to the last pivot ('wrist'?). If the 360deg swivel plate is moved to the base of the mount, the whole mechanism could be oriented in any direction and the +/-15deg becomes a left-right tracking swivel, beyond what the 360deg plate would provide. The planet rotates 15deg/hour. The panel could be erected, the armature locked down, with the 15deg cocked to maximum eastward rotation and left loose, so the panel could be easily swung from the ground. Or even arrange it so max eastward is another 15deg / hour ahead of the sun, which is still pretty close to perpendicular to the sun. And then you get 4 hours of near-optimum sweep, before you have to get up there and swivel the whole structure.
Look at that image, cock your head to the right, the base at left is 'down' and move the 360deg plate to that end. With that setup, the panel could be aimed anywhere at all.
Too, there are telescope tracking motors which correct for Earth's rotation. Put such a thing on the base and all you'd have to do is set your plate perpendicular to the sun and kick on the power to the tracking motor. And then you don't have to do much of anything while maximizing your solar power harvest.
The mount is $18.
eta
The distance from shoulder to wrist pivots is 12.4". My folding panel is about 22"x44". So the panel in a horizontal orientation could readily reach the near-vertical. The roof mount structure would interfere with a vertical arrangement, but that doesn't matter much as even in winter in SoCal's rough latitude only need a maximal tilt of 55deg. (LAT*0.89)+24=winter panel angle
eta2
The collapsed height of the armature is roughly 2-1/2". A little creativity in the cradle arrangement would let some of that height fit up into the backside of the panel's aluminum channel frame. So the locking / flat roof mount could wind up being about 3" tall overall.
The height increase would also solve the issue of using the hood locks. Their base pin could be bolted to an intermediate flange in the roof mount framework, if that framework is like an 'E' in cross-section.
Just need to find out if the 15deg range of motion of the TV-mounting plate is fixed in relation to the swivels in the armature. If the 15deg tilt spins with the 360deg head, I'm in business. Or maybe I re-engineer it so the 360deg plate is at the base, on the roof deck instead. So the whole armature spins, then the axis of the 15deg tilt doesn't matter as much. I'd want to be able to park the vehicle in any orientation and be able to aim the panel right at the sun.
https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=16128&seq=1&format=2
https://images.monoprice.com/productlargeimages/161281.jpg
The following diagram seems to indicate the +/-15deg tilt is fixed in relation to the last pivot ('wrist'?). If the 360deg swivel plate is moved to the base of the mount, the whole mechanism could be oriented in any direction and the +/-15deg becomes a left-right tracking swivel, beyond what the 360deg plate would provide. The planet rotates 15deg/hour. The panel could be erected, the armature locked down, with the 15deg cocked to maximum eastward rotation and left loose, so the panel could be easily swung from the ground. Or even arrange it so max eastward is another 15deg / hour ahead of the sun, which is still pretty close to perpendicular to the sun. And then you get 4 hours of near-optimum sweep, before you have to get up there and swivel the whole structure.
Look at that image, cock your head to the right, the base at left is 'down' and move the 360deg plate to that end. With that setup, the panel could be aimed anywhere at all.
Too, there are telescope tracking motors which correct for Earth's rotation. Put such a thing on the base and all you'd have to do is set your plate perpendicular to the sun and kick on the power to the tracking motor. And then you don't have to do much of anything while maximizing your solar power harvest.
The mount is $18.
eta
The distance from shoulder to wrist pivots is 12.4". My folding panel is about 22"x44". So the panel in a horizontal orientation could readily reach the near-vertical. The roof mount structure would interfere with a vertical arrangement, but that doesn't matter much as even in winter in SoCal's rough latitude only need a maximal tilt of 55deg. (LAT*0.89)+24=winter panel angle
eta2
The collapsed height of the armature is roughly 2-1/2". A little creativity in the cradle arrangement would let some of that height fit up into the backside of the panel's aluminum channel frame. So the locking / flat roof mount could wind up being about 3" tall overall.
The height increase would also solve the issue of using the hood locks. Their base pin could be bolted to an intermediate flange in the roof mount framework, if that framework is like an 'E' in cross-section.
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rayra
Expedition Leader
Radiator end-tank cracked, already got the Delco replacement and gathering other cooling system parts from rockauto for a full refresh of the cooling system. Been on my 'things to do' since I bought the Sub two - correction three years ago.
Info on the crack and patch attempt in my 'Hey Vortec Guys' topic.
eta - and got the radiator, new water pump, main hoses, thermostat installed last Sunday
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...ckup-Suburban-Yukon-etc?p=2393805#post2393805
Also just ordered a set of front seat covers from Marathon, not going to see those until ~NewYears
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...tic)-OVER-leather-seats?p=2392474#post2392474
And fingering the order form at Spohn for some new boxed rear trailing / control arms.
http://www.spohn.net/shop/2000-2006...Tahoe-Yukon-Avalanche-Escalade-Hummer-H2.html
F it went ahead and ordered them.
Info on the crack and patch attempt in my 'Hey Vortec Guys' topic.
eta - and got the radiator, new water pump, main hoses, thermostat installed last Sunday
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...ckup-Suburban-Yukon-etc?p=2393805#post2393805
Also just ordered a set of front seat covers from Marathon, not going to see those until ~NewYears
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...tic)-OVER-leather-seats?p=2392474#post2392474
And fingering the order form at Spohn for some new boxed rear trailing / control arms.
http://www.spohn.net/shop/2000-2006...Tahoe-Yukon-Avalanche-Escalade-Hummer-H2.html
F it went ahead and ordered them.
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rayra
Expedition Leader
will do. I bought them to be rid of flex. Fresh and freshly greased I expect they'll ride well. But I made the mistake of installing them today and discovering my air-powered grease gun's seal was blown out and I couldn't hit them with the poly-compatible grease I'd also purchased. So I'll get a new grease gun and do it up right, on Black Friday
-
Sppoooonn! / Spohn!
No instructions. No details on their website, other than a 2min 'look at this swell part' video. I could discern no size, angle or diameter differences in the parts at either end or compared to each other. Other than the strategically-placed brand sticker, meant to be visible on the leading end of the control arm, which is normally visible from the side of the vehicle. Which I of course considered after installing the first side 'backwards'.
I also had a bit of trouble getting the first piece in, but I'm attributing that to the roll against the chock I'd placed at the front tire, after I decoupled the factory control arm. Parking brake was on. I wound up jacking up the rear wheel on that side and giving the tire a kick and then wielding a pry bar on the new control arm to get the bolt hole lined up enough to drive the conical-tipped factory bolt thru with Mjolnir (my 3# maul).
With the vehicle now full-forward against the chock, the passenger side went swiftly, without any alignment trouble.
Here's a pic of the original equipment, you can see the slight bend of the arm on the right. That was just from mistakenly trying to set my floor jack under the part, a couple years ago. It bent much worse, I'd hammered it back (mostly) into shape. I expect my alignment might be off, now that my rear axle is 'true'.
And a couple gratuitous shots of the armor conduit of the electrical upgrades, several months after install. No sign of damage, wear or cooking from close passes by the exhaust system.
-
Sppoooonn! / Spohn!
No instructions. No details on their website, other than a 2min 'look at this swell part' video. I could discern no size, angle or diameter differences in the parts at either end or compared to each other. Other than the strategically-placed brand sticker, meant to be visible on the leading end of the control arm, which is normally visible from the side of the vehicle. Which I of course considered after installing the first side 'backwards'.
I also had a bit of trouble getting the first piece in, but I'm attributing that to the roll against the chock I'd placed at the front tire, after I decoupled the factory control arm. Parking brake was on. I wound up jacking up the rear wheel on that side and giving the tire a kick and then wielding a pry bar on the new control arm to get the bolt hole lined up enough to drive the conical-tipped factory bolt thru with Mjolnir (my 3# maul).
With the vehicle now full-forward against the chock, the passenger side went swiftly, without any alignment trouble.
Here's a pic of the original equipment, you can see the slight bend of the arm on the right. That was just from mistakenly trying to set my floor jack under the part, a couple years ago. It bent much worse, I'd hammered it back (mostly) into shape. I expect my alignment might be off, now that my rear axle is 'true'.
And a couple gratuitous shots of the armor conduit of the electrical upgrades, several months after install. No sign of damage, wear or cooking from close passes by the exhaust system.
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rayra
Expedition Leader
New front seat covers weren't expected until after the Christmas crush, they came early, so I did too.
Rushed them in late this afternoon. Had a little trouble with fitment on the passenger back, but that was the first piece I put on. Will probably re-visit it later. The driver side however - and the rest of the parts - fit perfectly.
I also did it with the seats in the vehicle, which added to the difficulty. Only 'instruction' vids I could find were very generic. THere's both a cord and long 1" velcro straps seemingly meant to cross under from side to side on the seat bottoms that I couldn't promptly figure out, so they're just tucked in. I did manage the fore-aft strapping though.
I also committed some atrocities in a rough patch of my decomposed driver seat. Patched the crumbled bolster with a cut-down chunk of tiling sponge and restored the shape of the bolster somewhat with the holy duct tape.
The color, well, it is what it is. 'Light Gray' was best I could see / pick from their offerings. Fitment was mor eimportant to me than color matching. And as you can see in the pics, there's already six shades of gray in the damned thing anyway. Seven if you count my moonroof shade re-upholstery job. Just didn't want to go with black.
I'm also interest to see how bad a problem I have with static going forward, in SoCal. /"it's a dry heat"
The back seats are the same color as each other, the variations in lighting in this pic make them look much different. Same for the following pic of the fronts, as the seat backs and bottoms are the same color but don't look it in the pic.
Rushed them in late this afternoon. Had a little trouble with fitment on the passenger back, but that was the first piece I put on. Will probably re-visit it later. The driver side however - and the rest of the parts - fit perfectly.
I also did it with the seats in the vehicle, which added to the difficulty. Only 'instruction' vids I could find were very generic. THere's both a cord and long 1" velcro straps seemingly meant to cross under from side to side on the seat bottoms that I couldn't promptly figure out, so they're just tucked in. I did manage the fore-aft strapping though.
I also committed some atrocities in a rough patch of my decomposed driver seat. Patched the crumbled bolster with a cut-down chunk of tiling sponge and restored the shape of the bolster somewhat with the holy duct tape.
The color, well, it is what it is. 'Light Gray' was best I could see / pick from their offerings. Fitment was mor eimportant to me than color matching. And as you can see in the pics, there's already six shades of gray in the damned thing anyway. Seven if you count my moonroof shade re-upholstery job. Just didn't want to go with black.
I'm also interest to see how bad a problem I have with static going forward, in SoCal. /"it's a dry heat"
The back seats are the same color as each other, the variations in lighting in this pic make them look much different. Same for the following pic of the fronts, as the seat backs and bottoms are the same color but don't look it in the pic.
mccustomize
Explorer
Where in Texas are you relocating to?
rayra
Expedition Leader
aiming for somewhere east of Dallas, over and down around Athens / Tyler / Longview. Where it's wetter, cooler, and I can grow things. 40" of rain, some sandy loam instead of the limestone of central and west TX, an actual water table. 6-10ac, enough pasture / graze for an ag exemption. Long term ideas include semi-rural, fruit orchard, grapes, bees, oversized truck garden, pole barn workshop w/ loft apt, later house (re)build (will be looking for a property with an established older house on it, as a way to shortcut all the utility needs), wedding venue, possible B&B. Probably spend the rest of my life building it all. I build a lot with wood, would like to do much more and expand on my furniture efforts and even some cedar-strip canoes. There's good 'side money' in most those things. I'd like to do them all. Would be happiest is it was ALL 'side money' / self-employment. Going to be at least another ~5yrs before I can escape CA.
What region of TX are you in. I'd be happy to hear anything you can tell me about it in general, or my target areas
What region of TX are you in. I'd be happy to hear anything you can tell me about it in general, or my target areas
mccustomize
Explorer
I'm in central tx, Killeen/ft hood area. Just to the west of here is beautiful, lots to do and see, but land is expensive because of the beauty. East Tx is where it's at for sure if you want land, lots of trees and creeks, always green. Lindale has one of the best school systems around and Tyler is beautiful, one of the top hospital systems in the state. I looked at land around the area and found some excellent deals, as good as 106 acres of wooded land for 90k. Compared to west where we want to be is around 5-10k/acre. Any other questions feel free to ask, I know folks all over the state and I've been here my whole life.
TexomaPowerboater
Adventurer
I'm in north texas / south DFW to be exact and have family in east texas, in the Tyler/Longview/Van area. The beautiful east texas with tall pine trees and fairly undeveloped are begins in Van and runs all the way east to Louisiana. It also runs south from Van all the way to the Woodlands area. It's referred to as the Piney Woods are of Texas, do a wikepedia search and you can see the geographic area. It's a beautiful area...... lots of tall pine trees. I've got clients with timber farms out there (which is a decent investment by the way). Plenty of water around and tons of land available for pretty cheap that is suitable for your intentions. My grandfather lives in Van and had a little garden for years and had a good grow every year it seemed........always lots of left overs he would pass around to family.
Not a ton of jobs tho, oil and gas generates a lot of the income. Wouldn't mind retiring myself there someday. Oklahoma is great too, tons of rural space and cheap land, but some of the people are a bit backward if you know what I mean. Good location about a day's drive to beach, mountains, etc, any typical climate you'd like to go to cept something like Utah.
Not a ton of jobs tho, oil and gas generates a lot of the income. Wouldn't mind retiring myself there someday. Oklahoma is great too, tons of rural space and cheap land, but some of the people are a bit backward if you know what I mean. Good location about a day's drive to beach, mountains, etc, any typical climate you'd like to go to cept something like Utah.
rayra
Expedition Leader
Thank you both and mccustomize I will indeed be in touch. The medical aspect is also key. My fuzzy plans are a kind of multi-stage thing. I'm gearing up for my next career, medical imaging, starting with xray but aiming for MRI. Intend to use CA monies so I can vault out of here when the time comes. Fuzzy plan is aim for southeast Dallas initially, so I can roam east TX on non-working days to find the parcel I'm imagining. And then a period of time as I do the initial improvements on the land, planting the stuff that takes 2-3yrs to grow in. And then hope to move employment further into east TX as I get the other aspects established.
Texoma, I know what you mean. My paternal grandparents were Okies, came to CA out of the Dustbowl, the whole 'Grapes of Wrath' thing. I also have spent time at Ft Sill in artillery FDC school. Spent a lot of liberty in Lawton and Wichita Falls. Have had family in TX, and distant cousins now. And a nephew-in-law and his family are heading for Plano in the near future. '
I'm pinned in CA with aged parents and the Missus has a few years more before she can retire, but she'd be happy to go any time. Just a question of time, I'm so done with CA. Just need to get out of here before the crooks in Sacramento try to pass an exit tax. CA already has more legal citizens leaving than coming in. It's past time to go.
Texoma, I know what you mean. My paternal grandparents were Okies, came to CA out of the Dustbowl, the whole 'Grapes of Wrath' thing. I also have spent time at Ft Sill in artillery FDC school. Spent a lot of liberty in Lawton and Wichita Falls. Have had family in TX, and distant cousins now. And a nephew-in-law and his family are heading for Plano in the near future. '
I'm pinned in CA with aged parents and the Missus has a few years more before she can retire, but she'd be happy to go any time. Just a question of time, I'm so done with CA. Just need to get out of here before the crooks in Sacramento try to pass an exit tax. CA already has more legal citizens leaving than coming in. It's past time to go.
TexomaPowerboater
Adventurer
Kindly disagree with MC on Tyler's hospital, had a bad experience there when my grandmother passed.
Southeast Dallas can be rough and anyplace remotely attractive around there will be overly expensive. I live in Mansfield, which is south central of Dallas and Fort Worth and fairly cheap, also right on the border of country side of things. Lot of good higher paying jobs around Dallas tho. I work in Fort Worth and could probably make 25-30% more over there (cost 30-40% more to live there too), but I just don't care for the congestion of Dallas and all their crazy drivers and roads. Fort Worth is were the wild west begins; great hospitals too.
Southeast Dallas can be rough and anyplace remotely attractive around there will be overly expensive. I live in Mansfield, which is south central of Dallas and Fort Worth and fairly cheap, also right on the border of country side of things. Lot of good higher paying jobs around Dallas tho. I work in Fort Worth and could probably make 25-30% more over there (cost 30-40% more to live there too), but I just don't care for the congestion of Dallas and all their crazy drivers and roads. Fort Worth is were the wild west begins; great hospitals too.