Making a ifting roof on a 110

[wuntenn]

I'm not entirely certain of the Uk legality of gas bottles on the rear, I've still to find that out - I may need a cover/case - which I was intending to make anyway - a simple slip-over alloy case that will prevent it from getting too hot/wet/filthy. It may be that the bottle lives travels inside and is put outside when parked up. Lots of options. I've thought of other options but LPG is clean and easy to work with, good in low temps, and I have the stove and bottle/regulator already so it saves some money by not replacing it.

 

[Arjan]

"..I have the stove and bottle/regulator already so it saves some money by not replacing it.."

Makes sense.

 

[UK4X4]

Just about all the little caravans in the UK have exterior gas bottles, usually the cover is only to make them look nice rather than protect them.

I just mounted mine to the front of my trailer before easter.

and bought some of these, one for adding a strap and lock to try stop the pikeys borrowing it


http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0051OECOA/ref=pe_385721_37038051_TE_3p_dp_1

 

[wuntenn]

Cheers - these strap/lock flippers look like a useful thing - I've got some flexible galvanized perforated strap to wrap around the bottle and this might be ideal for locking and fastening.

 

[tacr2man]

Dont see any probs with the gas bottle in that location in UK . Its not near exhaust, or to close to ground . Its well ventilated .
I used a Coleman fuel burning stove (twin burner) , to get over the gas refill probs , outside of UK . Diesel burning stoves cost a fortune !

Whats the primary use for the Unwin tracking on the side of the hard top ? Not for extra seating / which is what its used mostly for !

 

[wuntenn]

Whats the primary use for the Unwin tracking on the side of the hard top ? Not for extra seating / which is what its used mostly for !

The cargo tracking? Well my idea for very thin strong (Dibond) alloy panels that can slot into the lifted-roof sides to form temporary hard sides is going ahead, and I've started obtaining the materials.

I've been trying to figure out secure places to put them (there's two pieces for each side = 4, and a single hinged folding piece for the rear end) and I can get some of this on the roof, but thought it might also work on the side too. Also I've been down to Morocco a couple of times and would like a return trip in a year or two with the family, and the ability to strap a load of stuff on the side will be very useful, especially some extra water, sand mats etc. I figured if I was going to fit them it was easier to do it now whilst I have the interior stripped out so I did, and was able to get in behind and make sure they were well fixed and sealed.

I'm working on a simple awning (with zip-on sides) for both the back door area, and another for the passenger side (both will fold closed and lie flat against the sides of the 'new' roof) and I intend that the support leg for the side awning uses the cargo rails for support, so they should prove useful in the longer term in several ways. It's not hugely expensive stuff so it was worth fitting them just now. And I also put a few of the bolts for the cargo rail through a timber block in the inside, which is hidden behind the ply lining, which I'm using to fasten some of the interior fittings onto, giving them a good 'grip' of the wall.

 

[tacr2man]

Working on same awning idea at the moment as well , using curtainsider material, and to be self supporting at rear , with a wind in capability . It should extend out about 5 foot or so at the back, they want a fortune for the Fiamma ones ! I dont want zippers , but use an eyelet principle like on TIR trailer curtains, much more robust over long periods . JMHO

 

[wuntenn]

Working on same awning idea at the moment as well , using curtainsider material, and to be self supporting at rear , with a wind in capability . It should extend out about 5 foot or so at the back, they want a fortune for the Fiamma ones ! I dont want zippers , but use an eyelet principle like on TIR trailer curtains, much more robust over long periods . JMHO

Aye, I looked at the Fiamma ones and nearly fainted. I reckoned I could do something just as useful for a lot less. You might be right about the eyelets - it's probably a lot cheaper too. I've still to get a quote for the sewing up of what I want so no idea how complicated and hence how much additional work zips will create. Humble opinions are often very good ones!

 

[wuntenn]

Gas bottle holder complete.



Painted and bolted on with a thin sticky rubber tape between frame and van as a seal.



Not as pretty as some, but functional and strong (I can stand on it).



Strap is perforated galvanized steel, bolted at each end.



I'll make/find something to cover the top - a metal 'top hat' to cover the regulator and keep the gas pipe out of the elements, and which will be padlocked on to retain the bottle and prevent people gaining access and fiddling with the valve.

 

[wuntenn]

Looking good. Will be starting my project this week and your work is great inspiration! Keep it up.

Did you consider the Coleman dual burner petrol stove for your build? and how many litres will the water tank hold?
I was thinking of putting a tank either side in mine for fuel and one at the rear and right for water.

Cheers.

Petrol stoves in a small space is not my idea of a relaxing cooking session! I figured LPG would be clean and efficient, easy to use, and I already had the bottle and small (cheap) stove so it will do fine just now.

I got the tank s/h but I figured its about 40L. I could have got more in there with a custom shaped one as there's still space above and below and to the rear. I've got a rear wing tank for diesel on the drivers side and that's 45L . There's a fair amount of space in various corners that can be utilized with some careful thought and fabrication.

 

[tacr2man]

Re fuel tankage I have one under drivers seat, ex mil 109 top fill, the standard sw rear tank and a 11gallon (imp) under o/s/r inline with standard filler so just increases rear capacity , no extra guage or pump needed. I dont have guage on front tank as I know when its full, and just pump into rear tank untill empty (when there is enough space back there). HTSH

 

[wuntenn]

That's pretty good. You should be able to cover a fair distance with that capacity.

 

[wuntenn]

Working on same awning idea at the moment as well , using curtainsider material, and to be self supporting at rear , with a wind in capability . It should extend out about 5 foot or so at the back, they want a fortune for the Fiamma ones ! I dont want zippers , but use an eyelet principle like on TIR trailer curtains, much more robust over long periods . JMHO

How does the wind-in capability work? Have you found some bits that are adaptable for LR use, or gloriously bodging something 'useful'?

 

[tacr2man]

I am a big believer in the KISS principle , so basically its a bracket that bolts to landy , which acts as pivot each end for the extending side bars , which are hinged vertically at halfway point to fold into middle. They are then hinged (again vertically) at the far end , Maximum extension is therefore limited to width of base bracket . The roller part is mounted just above the extender frame so that when the side bars are locked in straight out position ,when the curtain is tensioned it acts as a cantilever support . The roller is just a tube with a flat plate to secure the rear of the curtain . If you want you could use a curtain side trailer roller locker as here
http://www.nationwide-trailer-parts.co.uk/curtain-side-parts/curtain-side-ratchets-tensioners.html
or a 3/8 or 1/2 inch socket drive welded to th end of tube , and locked in position by an R clip . Hope that description makes sense :ylsmoke:
ps you could probably source parts from commercial breakers , as old trailers are quite plentiful

 

[wuntenn]

Ah ok. That's a good idea. I can visualize where you're going with it. I like the idea of using stronger fabric and using it as a stress-member of sorts to keep it rigid. Clever.