Maxing out your truck’s payload

[rruff]

With the add-a-leaf and the positioning of centre of gravity, should I still be concerned about the axle/frame/everything🤯?

5100 lbs actual vs GAWR of 3550 lbs... 1550 lbs over, which is a lot. I'd do some investigating regarding the particular axle you have and failures.

Also, how much pressure is in the airbags?

 

[wtwnnil]

rruff, as a minor concession the rear GAWR is 3850lbs. Still has me worried

Airbags are at about 80psi each, just enough to bring the spacing between the rear wheels and the wheelwell back to where they were before loading the weight of the camper onto the truck.

It drives good, steering feels good, and so do the breaks.

We’re on a 6000km road trip to relocate across the country, so it’s our home for the forseable future. Driving mostly highways, and FSRs are currently out of the picture.

Thanks for your thoughts, insights, and advice everyone!

 

[AbleGuy]

We’re on a 6000km road trip to relocate across the country, so it’s our home for the forseable future. Driving mostly highways, and FSRs are currently out of the picture.

Good luck and God speed, and please chime in when you’re home safely and settled, to report back on your experiences on the road.

 

[Chadx]

Airbags are at about 80psi each, just enough to bring the spacing between the rear wheels and the wheelwell back to where they were before loading the weight of the camper onto the truck.

@wtottman I submit that you have too much air in your bags if it's bringing the truck up to "unloaded" ride height. Leaf sprung pickups are designed to settle into their suspension a bit when loaded (usually 1.5" to 3"), hence the rear-high rake when unloaded. That way you're "level" when loaded. Pumping the airbags so full that you have the same rear-high rake as when totally unloaded is not the correct use of airbags; That means you are over inflating them. They are to supplement your leaf spring; not replace them and take the full weight of the load. You want just enough air to eliminate an overly-sagged rear end (rear of truck lower than front). Per the various airbag manufacturers, when loaded, you are targeting a pickup that is level front to back.

I suggest dropping the airbag pressure to 10lb or 20lb with camper on. Have truck parked on a level surface. Then add ONLY enough air to level the truck; not enough to lift the rear more than the front. The rear SHOULD be 1.5" to 3" lower than the rear when pickup is empty. When loaded, you want the pickup level (rear sunk a few inches compared to when empty and level front to back). To give you an idea, on my admittedly VERY overloaded Tundra, my airbags were at the most 45lb to level and often 35lb.

Note that you'll adjust airbag air pressure every time you significantly change the weight of the load as there will be a different pressure depending on if it's camper loaded but empty for daily driving, camper loaded with gear/food/drinks/water for a trip, camper is off, and also depending on weight on the receiver that trip (bike rack/bikes, trailer, etc.)

 

[rruff]

I submit that you have too much air in your bags if it's bringing the truck up to "unloaded" ride height.

Yep, 80 lbs is a lot, and level is best.

 

[Alloy]

What are you basing the statement of 'since lots of them are hauling over the limit' on?

I'm on a F150 forum and there are just as many payload threads there as there are here.

Can't see I see evidence on F150 forums of lots of people hauling over limit.

On the camper forums when people ask about SWR vs DRW it suprisies me the number of people with overloaded SRW that encourage others to do the same.

 

[wtwnnil]

Thank again, all. For what it’s worth, I’ve dropped the airbag pressure down to about 35, so we’re level, and the truck is handling nicely with the change. I appreciate your advice, chadx 👌

 

[ramblinChet]

"The wise consumer, before purchase, will determine if the vehicle has sufficient cargo capacity to carry the weight of water, additional equipment (such as televisions, and microwave ovens), and luggage. The manufacturer’s certification label must show the GVWR. The GVWR must not be exceeded by overloading the vehicle. There is little the government can do to assist a consumer who has purchased a vehicle that has insufficient cargo capacity for its intended use." - NHTSA

My recommendation is for you to accurately weight your entire payload, or at a minimum, weigh all individual parts and calculate an accurate payload estimate. Once you have that payload number search for a truck with double that payload capacity. This will place your entire system (handling, drive-train, braking, cooling, suspension, etc.) right in the middle of that inverted-U, that is the sweet spot. I personally believe it is unwise, and so do most fleet managers, to run a 3/4 or 1-ton truck above 75-80% on a permanent basis.

If you are running 80-100% of payload on a consistent basis on a 3/4 or 1-ton truck everything will suffer. Your handling, to include steering and braking, will be significantly diminished. Your drive-train, steering, braking, cooling, etc. will be operating at the very edge of their envelope and you should expect to encounter higher maintenance costs and unexpected break downs.

 

[rruff]

Your handling, to include steering and braking, will be significantly diminished. Your drive-train, steering, braking, cooling, etc. will be operating at the very edge of their envelope and you should expect to encounter higher maintenance costs and unexpected break downs.

Where did you come by these opinions?

 

[nickw]

Where did you come by these opinions?

Makes sense I'd agree with @ramblinChet if you are operating at edge of envelope - 3/4 to 1 T trucks capacities are not "real" in the same sense as true HD commercial vehicles that can operate at rated capacities for the life of the rig. Ford/Dodge/Chevy play with numbers, they "can" do it but not on a consistent basis.

Same for engines, "continuous" vs "peak" power numbers.....consumer rigs may have same power as commercial / HD rigs, but the commercial rigs can operate at that peak number indefinitely vs on an as needed basis with the consumer 3/4 - 1T rigs.

 

[IdaSHO]

Nonsense. Running at max GVWR on the highway isn't taxing anything near peak on a truck unless you are hitting a legit, and long, 6+% grade, or operating continuously on legit off-road.

Start from the ground and work your way up...

Tires
Brakes
Hub/wheel bearings
Axle housing
Ring and Pinion
Driveshaft and U-joints
Trans
Clutch/Converter
Engine
Chassis

I run at or over max GVWR all the time. Nothing on that list is near its max rating. Nothing.

Ive said it before, and Ill say it again.... Max GVWR in the USA for todays "light duty" full-size trucks has essentially nothing to do with actual limits.
They are FAR more related to registration, liability, and $$$ As once you cross that magical 10K mark, you are quite literally, in a whole new class.

GVWR CLASS IDENTIFICATION

 

[nickw]

Nonsense. Running at max GVWR on the highway isn't taxing anything near peak on a truck unless you are hitting a legit, and long, 6+% grade, or operating continuously on legit off-road.

Start from the ground and work your way up...

Tires
Brakes
Hub/wheel bearings
Axle housing
Ring and Pinion
Driveshaft and U-joints
Trans
Clutch/Converter
Engine
Chassis

I run at or over max GVWR all the time. Nothing on that list is near its max rating. Nothing.

Ive said it before, and Ill say it again.... Max GVWR in the USA for todays "light duty" full-size trucks has essentially nothing to do with actual limits.
They are FAR more related to registration, liability, and $$$ As once you cross that magical 10K mark, you are quite literally, in a whole new class.

GVWR CLASS IDENTIFICATION

You can say it all you want doesn't make it true.

Prove it - outside of tires, how would you know what those things are "rated" for but more importantly what loads they encounter on a daily basis?

Driving down a flat highway is one thing, encountering real world conditions is different like emergency stops, panic maneuvers, accelerating at max power to get across an intersection, hitting expansion joints on the highway, hitting a pothole, construction zones, etc. etc. etc.

My N=1 - a buddy had a 1T Chev w/Duramax and had it 90% maxed out camper weight and would tow at the same time, close to max, nothing but problems, wheel bearings, wheels coming loose, rear axle issues....he realized that and bought a Ram 5500, no problems since and is way under all capacities.

 

[IdaSHO]

You can say it all you want doesn't make it true.

Prove it - outside of tires, how would you know what those things are "rated" for but more importantly what loads they encounter on a daily basis?

Easy.

Every single item is used on trucks with a greater GVWR than my truck. I am still within those limits. Furthermore, items like axles have MFG ratings. Easy to find, and they are a great deal higher than truck MFG listed ratings.

Any more questions?

 

[nickw]

Easy.

Every single item is used on trucks with a greater GVWR than my truck. I am still within those limits. Furthermore, items like axles have MFG ratings. Easy to find, and they are a great deal higher than truck MFG listed ratings.

Any more questions?

No more questions besides the ones I asked and you didn't answer. But I digress, you are a man who has convinced himself of something, don't let me stand in the way of that.

 

[CampStewart]

And yet the OP is probably making his way through his journey without any problems related to his gvw. And people on this forum ponder why it is mocked by a lot of people.