My 2001 Pathfinder (R50 ) mild/budget build

[Rebelord]

Allof75
Yes. Im sure there is some differences in what will be the measurement. Just was a random thought and rambling on.
I am about to rebuild my CV with new boots from Rockford cv. Just waiting on them and my tool for the clamps from Amazon.
Only reason I have a torn boot was me pushing the lca down to get the strut in on that side. 3 are still intact. But 16yrs old. So getting replaced anyways

Sent from my Moto X

 

[Allof75]

Allof75
Yes. Im sure there is some differences in what will be the measurement. Just was a random thought and rambling on.
I am about to rebuild my CV with new boots from Rockford cv. Just waiting on them and my tool for the clamps from Amazon.
Only reason I have a torn boot was me pushing the lca down to get the strut in on that side. 3 are still intact. But 16yrs old. So getting replaced anyways

Sent from my Moto X

I was referring to Stioc, but it's all good man. It's probably a good idea anyway to replace those boots, what with the age and amount of mud you see.

 

[bushnut]

don't fret about the CV boots. I've done 3 of them now,1 inner and 2 outer. the first one was an inner that tore up on my honey moon last fall. Fortunately I was able to fix it at my folks place.Now I just did both outers this spring. it took about 1.5 hours per side to get them out new boots on and back in. I just used new boot kits from NAPA. $16 each.
the hardest part was getting the GD shaft out. the way I did it was to unbolt the strut at the bottom and remove the lower ball joint from the LCA. its held on with 3 bolts. just remember to support the steering knuckle and brake assembly so you don't pull the brake line out. It helps if you've got a friend to help. it kinda requires 4 hands.
I wouldn't even bother to clean the old grease out of the CV unless its contaminated with water (white and milky) or dirt.
somewhere on Youtube I found a great Australian 4x4 tv show that gave a great demo on how to take the joint apart and replace the boot.
The reason I chose to fix mine was that they were still in great shape and after reading all the issues that people have had with aftermarket ones on NPORA I figure nothing beats OEM.
Oh and after a year with Ironman/nx4 spacer with 245/70/16 AT tires(29") I've got 35.5 front and 36 rear.

 

[stioc]

Cool, good to hear. What tool do i need for the bands? thanks.

Are those numbers with the flares on?

I tinkered with the camber yesterday and got it to just about 0 deg :wings: I should prob bring it in to do it on a calibrated setup and get the toe properly setup too.

Here's how it sits with the spacers on, I like the fender gap much better... just about perfect for those tires:

 

[Allof75]

Looks really nice, good to hear you got it dialed in.

 

[stioc]

Yeah, next I have to get the CV issue resolved until then I have a lifted 2wd truck

 

[bushnut]

no flares.
as for the band tool, I made due with some sidecutters and a small screw driver. Though it would probably be easier with the proper tool. the folks at NAPA (or your favourite parts store) should be able to sort you out.

 

[stioc]

Cool, thanks.

So I looked at the passenger cv shaft again and noticed that when I rotate the wheel by hand at one point it becomes hard to turn and then it relaxes again. When it becomes hard to turn and I apply more force I see the whole diff slide in and out. At first I found that very odd but noticed how the diff bracket is it seems it's designed to let the diff shift or slide. No idea why, or perhaps my bushings on the bracket are done.

Can anyone verify if turning the passenger side wheel is harder than the drivers side?

 

[richard310]

pathy looks great!

 

[wreckdiver1321]

That looks fantastic!

 

[stioc]

Thanks guys.

I guess I should've taken some better pics of the truck today after I gave it a quick wash and polish. I've picked up countless scratches over the last couple of years and the last trip to DV was hell on the truck's paint - narrow trails and intense overgrowth of every brush and tree that can possibly grow in the desert. I had fully accepted the scratches as part of the fun but I was surprised to see 80% of them buffed right out. The other 20% are deep enough to need some some sort of a filler so I wouldn't expect a polishing compound to remove them. Oh and I used this 12yo NuFinish Scratch Remover polish I had laying around (is NuFinish still around?) on my random orbital buffer that also hasn't seen much use in the last decade lol.

Also mounted the recently purchased 5lbs propane tank to the roof rack and just to keep things ever interesting anything on the roof rack now hits the top of the garage door opening if it's anything higher than 3" inches :snorkel:

 

[Weekender41]

The mounting bracket for the tank.. Custom or purchased? Is it just connected with the strap around the side?

 

[stioc]

I guess you can call it custom it's a left over RotoPax mount that I didn't use. Around the tank is just a ratchet strap which I may switch out for a metal band with a latch...but the strap works just fine.

 

[marty1977]

wow :Wow1: the truck looks shiny its nice that most of the stuff came out im hoping some time this summer i can remove some stuff of my tryck but till then i have a lot more work to do.

 

[Cali_Crawler83]

Your rig looks awesome! I'm a huge fan of trucks that are garage built. Im in the process of starting to build a 97 R50. After you installed your 2" lift did you have to install wheel spacers to clear your rims and tires? Are you still running factory rims?