My *slow going* M416 camping trailer build.

[jeepfreak81]

Ok so bear with me when you see how the electrical is shaping up in the box. There will only be very light loads on any of the electrical in this thing at any one time as most of the lighting will be LED. The only thing I have not decided if I want to splurge on are LED backup/spot lamps as we usually do get to camp late/set up in the dark.

The outdoor outlet mounted on the bottom of the box has 2- 110v outlets. 1 outlet will run directly off any 110v that is plugged into the opposite side of the box. Probably unnecessary as the post at a campsite with 110v, but I felt it would be a nice option. The other 110v outlet will be powered by the commercial invertor that will be inside the tongue box. I may change this down the road to work 100% off the invertor, it would be as simple as unplugging from the power strip, and plugging into the invertor.

The 12V outlet on the side can run off 110v --> 12v convertor or the battery itself. There probably will be a battery tender inside the box eventually as well.

All but the main switch panel mounted and sealed in place

The 110V, 1 side is from the battery/invertor and the other works when plugged into the pole

 

[jeepfreak81]

The Tongue box coming together

Functional tail lights

Lid fit

Some fit damage to smooth

The other side is worse

Picked this up used with a shower attachment and case, they claimed "worked flawlessly" it showed up inop. A 1929 Model A is nice to have around for something... I took the 6v battery out of the heater and hooked it to the 6v battery in the car, found the battery was shot and wouldn't take a charge anymore. It worked using the bar battery, so I ordered a battery from Battery Sharks for $8 ($13ish shipped)

 

[jeepfreak81]

Well, the 110V welder that we have used to build a few jeeps seems to be giving up, so we hauled the trailer to my dads and his 220v welder was the rescue!

Welding up the lift frame

Welding on the lid to the lid base, automotive seam sealer will seal the rest before paint.

Mocking up the lift frame

Making brackets

Left front so far

Welding on the rear lid cap

Cutting out the front lid cap

Mocked into place

Closer view

Had to quit early today

Rear view in the light, hitch installed

Drivers side view

Spare tire holder in the hitch mount

Sits fairly tight to the trailer, but you cannot tell in this. This is where it will be for now anyway.

 

[jeepfreak81]

Lift arms cut

Rack Extension made because we redesigned the lift

Invertor installed

Switch panel mounted

 

[jeepfreak81]

Today's work

A little odd mounting option, but it works very well

Uprights tacked into place, and rack extended for the new design

 

[jkce72]

I might of missed it, but was wondering what gauge steel you used on your lid. And do you have a guess on the weight of it. Thanks.

 

[jeepfreak81]

I believe it was 16 gauge. I have not weighed it, but I am pretty sure it is probably just under 100lbs. I can lift it, but it's tough, mostly because it is awkward. Around 80/90 lbs would be my guess. The 1" tube was 1/8" wall and IIRC it was 1.5" C-Channel for the base.

 

[Trailpsycho]

So, now you will have to extend/raise the rack and tent any time you want to get into the tub of the trailer?? It doesnt appear that you will be able to fully open the lid due to the tent rack. It just seems a bit convoluted and like it would get old pretty quick if you just need to access some stuff quickly. I am not trying to be harsh. I am in the planning stages for doing the same thing. I am simply trying to understand the logic...

Keep us posted.

 

[jeepfreak81]

So, now you will have to extend/raise the rack and tent any time you want to get into the tub of the trailer?? It doesnt appear that you will be able to fully open the lid due to the tent rack. It just seems a bit convoluted and like it would get old pretty quick if you just need to access some stuff quickly. I am not trying to be harsh. I am in the planning stages for doing the same thing. I am simply trying to understand the logic...

Keep us posted.

I can open the lid about 5" or so. I am thinking I won't hard mount the jack, but make it removable so I have that small access when it is lowered. I felt I would MUCH rather have easy access when the tent is raised, as the more I thought about it when we camped with our pop up we RARELY EVER got into the trailer when it was folded. By changing it this way, I actually will have access to the inside of the trailer from inside the tent when it is fully up. The trailer is already opening up most of the rear of the H3, if we think we will need something quickly it can now go in the rig as well.

It also allows for the installation of struts to raise the tent down the road instead of the jack if I want.

 

[jeepfreak81]

More... the spare will actually be closer to the body of the trailer. We mounted the lift rams, but without the tent on top they are too strong, and will likely need replaced with smaller ones.

 

[Trailpsycho]

Can you take a pic of the rack all the way up and then open the lid? I would like to see how much access there is into the tub of the trailer. Thanks!

It looks pretty good. So what rams are you using how are they installed? Etc. I have seen a thread or two of how others did this with larger diameter round tub. Are you using lock pins, a bolt or what to keep it locked once you have it in the up position?

Thanks for answering my questions.

Have a great weekend!

 

[jeepfreak81]

Can you take a pic of the rack all the way up and then open the lid? I would like to see how much access there is into the tub of the trailer. Thanks!

It looks pretty good. So what rams are you using how are they installed? Etc. I have seen a thread or two of how others did this with larger diameter round tub. Are you using lock pins, a bolt or what to keep it locked once you have it in the up position?

Thanks for answering my questions.

Have a great weekend!

The pins I am using to hold it up right now look like below. Currently I have 2 -200lb rams from McMaster Carr. They are WAY too much now that I don't have the weight of the tent on the lid itself. I could easily back it down to 2 - 50lb rams and those would be more than enough. As far as installation, they bent the hell out of the brackets that I bought from McMaster Carr for them, so right now I have some crappy welds holding them on on the lid, and bolted to the trailer. My buddy wasn't getting in the trailer under the lid to weld them on, and I am a crappy welder in the first place, I proceeded to drop welding slag right on my crotch that burned through my pants, on top of all that it was late and I couldn't see crap. I will get pictures after I clean them up with a grinder later today. We are working on wiring tonight, and I will be primering and painting parts. Then later this weekend I think we will be getting the latch welded on and tent mounted.

 

[Trailpsycho]

No, I wasnt referring to the struts to assist with the lid opening and to hold it open.

From your text, it sounded like you had abandoned the idea of using the scissor jack to raise the rack to its up position and were instead going to use "rams"...if I misunderstood, my bad. If you still plan to use the scissor jack, then disregard my previous inquiry.

However, I would still like to see the rack raised up to its upper position and the lid opened as far as it will until it makes contact. This sort of access is my biggest concern about the setup you are currently pursuing.

 

[Trailpsycho]

Be safe. You dont want to burn your junk...not a "feel good opportunity".


Cheers!

John

 

[jeepfreak81]

No, I wasnt referring to the struts to assist with the lid opening and to hold it open.

From your text, it sounded like you had abandoned the idea of using the scissor jack to raise the rack to its up position and were instead going to use "rams"...if I misunderstood, my bad. If you still plan to use the scissor jack, then disregard my previous inquiry.

However, I would still like to see the rack raised up to its upper position and the lid opened as far as it will until it makes contact. This sort of access is my biggest concern about the setup you are currently pursuing.

Sorry, for the lift I still plan to use the jack for now, maybe down the road do struts if they can get it high enough. The jack will get it close, after I add some wood/rubber to keep from marring the lid too badly. We have to weld a latch on the side yet, fish plate the extension on the rack, and weld the lid sheet metal to the center supports in the middle, and touch up some other welds where I ground them too thin. I should have it all painted up, and the tent mounted this weekend. We stood on top and it seemed stable, but the landing leg scares me right now with the amount of tongue weight that it has with the battery. I need to figure out how to get a better jack on it. I think it will require a tongue extension.

Without the struts attached, and the lift FULL up

Struts in place

I am going to drill some holes to let me lower it a couple inches as well