NAS LR3 build with an overseas twist
- Thread starter Ray_G
- Start date
Ray_G
Explorer
Bumper mounted anderson plug
While I don't really have a need for this given the dual battery and the microstart, I've done it with most of my trucks and with the parts on hand I finally got around to installing an anderson plug on the front bumper running to the primary battery. If nothing else it gives me an option for jump starting (or being jump started if all the built in protections fail) if the microstart is uncharged or for some reason not the best option. Like the other elements on the front bumper, the desire was to leave the hood closed and still allow for employment. It, along with the air hose & such, all live in the same bag:
Not really much to it, other than the pain of routing the wires through the bumper, up behind the headlight-and of course the anderson plug was baby blue so that got painted.
Everything stows away nicely tucked beside the tools in the back.
Spent some time while down on the truck fiddling with where I'll mount maxtrax and such...still dwelling on that. 2 pair won't fit neatly in the front area since its just a little too short side to side for them to fit perpendicular to the axis of the truck. I'm also thinking about flooring for the rack...initially had thought expanded metal but may wait till CONUS and go poly max.
While I don't really have a need for this given the dual battery and the microstart, I've done it with most of my trucks and with the parts on hand I finally got around to installing an anderson plug on the front bumper running to the primary battery. If nothing else it gives me an option for jump starting (or being jump started if all the built in protections fail) if the microstart is uncharged or for some reason not the best option. Like the other elements on the front bumper, the desire was to leave the hood closed and still allow for employment. It, along with the air hose & such, all live in the same bag:
Not really much to it, other than the pain of routing the wires through the bumper, up behind the headlight-and of course the anderson plug was baby blue so that got painted.
Everything stows away nicely tucked beside the tools in the back.
Spent some time while down on the truck fiddling with where I'll mount maxtrax and such...still dwelling on that. 2 pair won't fit neatly in the front area since its just a little too short side to side for them to fit perpendicular to the axis of the truck. I'm also thinking about flooring for the rack...initially had thought expanded metal but may wait till CONUS and go poly max.
Ray_G
Explorer
I could do the swing away, but fear it will get crowded back there quick. My intent is to put some rotopax back there between the tire and the door-there should be just enough room for them without them rubbing. (edit for a bit more): I've also considered a hi-lift mount back there, and likely will put the CB antenna back there since the whole apparatus may spend as much time off the truck day to day as it does on the vehicle since it's removable and I hate CB. VHF will go on the roof.
I think with the maxtrax and the front of the prospeed I will have to forgo pins-may just use straps/buckles. Will do another test run tomorrow but really what I need to do is run out to the industrial area here and get some aluminum to create a basket in that area. The other option is the very back of the rack where the fin would be if my truck had that. Personally prefer them nestled in amidships. All fun problems to have mind you!
I think with the maxtrax and the front of the prospeed I will have to forgo pins-may just use straps/buckles. Will do another test run tomorrow but really what I need to do is run out to the industrial area here and get some aluminum to create a basket in that area. The other option is the very back of the rack where the fin would be if my truck had that. Personally prefer them nestled in amidships. All fun problems to have mind you!
Ray_G
Explorer
See...here you are with the solid info. In true Marine fashion I knew how to make the blue on the bumper black; I got a can of krylon out and went to work! As you can see in the pic the companion end on the jumper leads is still baby blue. You and John B both come with the knowledge like "you know you can change those right?"
I will probably do it when I can get my Amazon prime fix in two days vice two weeks...ready to have faster logistics to continue this thing's evolution.
Thanks Ray... If you carefully look in the business end, you will see a stiff metal tab. That tab hooks on the notch on the cable connector, which is crimped on. Push the cable toward the plug, use a medium flat blade to lift the tab to release the connector, slide it back and out. If you have the same housing front and rear, then you can plug in from the rear as well. It just gives you options if something goes wrong.
Once you are stateside, I have the hydraulic crimpers, as well as the ends, and the mini Anderson plugs and crimpers you can use to make custom cables.
Once you are stateside, I have the hydraulic crimpers, as well as the ends, and the mini Anderson plugs and crimpers you can use to make custom cables.
I couldn't agree more. I'd also like to achieve the same thing with the tyre compressor.
Have you considered the Prospeed floor panels? Well worth a look http://prospeed-group.co.uk/product/xrs-heavy-duty-floors/. They come a set of three per row and three rows to cover the whole thing. You can fit them in any configuration. But they are pricey.
Ray_G
Explorer
I'd thought about it when I ordered and Ben and I were discussing add-ons to the order; I assumed that I wouldn't really need/want it but as I play with it I realize that I'll want flooring up there if but for no other reason that where this a ladder my kids will climb and they tend to find themselves standing on top of my Rovers given a few seconds of going static.
The poly flooring, aka the chicken coop flooring (https://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplies/prod1;ft_building_materials-ft_mats_flooring;pgha2215.html) is a common trick with the SD racks on D1s & Dii's back in the US and I'm partial to its ability to get modified easily-I've chopped sections out, bolted stuff on through the holes-and had it for 9 years on one rack or another and it looks like the day it was purchased. I also think that its slight size would still accent the rack well while offsetting the slight 'peaking' you get from the wind fairing. Alas this will all probably wait till the truck gets back to the US since I don't think I'm going source that out here.
r-
Ray
harbinger808
Adventurer
I have all three rows covered with the prospeed xrs floor boards.
1) great place for my son and I to sit on and watch whats going on.
2) in combination with the eyebolts have held a lot of random shaped items up there.
3) provides all the shade needed for the AZ summer sun while driving.
But yes it was pricey
1) great place for my son and I to sit on and watch whats going on.
2) in combination with the eyebolts have held a lot of random shaped items up there.
3) provides all the shade needed for the AZ summer sun while driving.
But yes it was pricey
Ray_G
Explorer
I'm definitely digging the ability to use M8 hardware-eyebolts or otherwise-for the rack. I'm thinking two sections of flooring when I get it home will be the start point. I'll also be attaching my antenna mount(s) (got those from prospeed, solid build on those), the maxtrax, and likely some plates for attaching rotopax. That is unless I can convince the better half its time to get a Baroud RTT...which I don't think is in the cards!
I'm familiar with that but apart from cost the prospeed panels are better IMHO
I have a glass roof on mine and as harbinger says the Prospeed panels act as a old fashioned LR safari roof.
I made the mistake of getting the spare wheel carrier from them which I now won't be using so I'm a few panels short but they're on my shopping list
To be honest without some form of flooring the rack is tricky to use
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Ray_G
Explorer
There will def be flooring; the comment about the panels is interesting as my biggest concern is once the panels are emplaced you then have only the crossbars to use for things, i.e. M8 eyebolts or what have you-which will likely be enough but the panels themselves don't appear to have any modularity to them at all, and while elegant in and of itself the cost + inability to easily modify is one of the things that drew, draws, me away from them.
But I tend to learn things the hard way!
r-
Ray
Victory_Overland
Explorer
This very reason is why I decided on the Front Runner rack for my purposes. That Prospeed is a phenomenal piece of kit and I believe for everyday uses and visual appeal you have me beat hands down. My trade off was the decision to go full utility on my rack and sacrifice aerodynamics/noise and some looks for overall functional utility of the rack. I would say I have much less time with things off the rack then on the rack but when I do want to use it, it's utility overland design meets every need I have and its functionality for tiedowns, brackets, weight, flooring, etc... is standard in the base package. I also like that I can put stuff under the rack which is where my solar panel stowage design is intended and a few other pieces of trail necessity kit.
Definitely not busting on Prospeed here cuz that thing is epic in fit, form and function. I just felt like my FR met all the same criteria for my needs with more room for future expansion and much easier utility usage.
I keep watching you guys on the Prospeed and when you crack the nut on the very few utility shorfalls that thing has I'll be ordering mine up! hahaha :victory: Then I might move my FR to short rails and install it on my M416 project and a Prospeed on the truck.