New Camper Project...

Tree

Adventurer
Yah you were right these look like a strictly business vehicle... I like it! :victory:

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Tree

Adventurer
I love that site! Just look at this one!

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This + fg style swb= my new dream rig! Australia here I come:bike_rider:

Also I am sorry I kind of took this thread over. Ill stop:oops:
 

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Yeah Im sorry too. Last one I promise. This is an RFW that works down in Brisbane and I had the pleasure of working with it in my previous job.

14 x 14 !!! 8x8 prime mover permanently coupled to a 6x6 powered trailer . Imagine the ExPo rig you could build on that platform.
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Tree

Adventurer
Wow the bare chassis looks massive. Seeing as their is no tubes from what I can tell i assume the trailer has its own engine? Man that is one cool rig. What is it powered by? Local? Japanese?
 

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
IIRC the trailer is hydraulically driven at all wheels. Very clever guy RFW. And I'm pretty sure he uses big CATERPILLAR engines and Allison autos in most of them.

I read an old interview with him in a 4x4 mag. The journo asked him if his cabs would pass the new DoT "Truck Cab" Safety Tests. RFW yells "What would those !!@#$ white collar idiots know about cab tests. I'll show you a cab test!!!" And with that he leaped into the nearest truck and took off at full speed heading for a massive gum tree in the middle of the neighbouring field. BAANNGG.

Returning with only sratched paint and bark still stuck to the front, he says."There's ya cab test"

So he's a bit of a legend in truck circles.
 

BillyDread

New member
Just pulled the back off my ex-noosa bus canter....
too rusty!!!seems like they used acidic sealant throughout and this has caused more probs than just moisture....
I'm starting a complete re-build after rust proofing chassis...
I'm planning on using Aluminum throughout, both frame and sheeting...
any good advice?...
also, mounting the body to the frame looks like a much discussed issue.... - I was thinking of installing a tipper frame and building off that...
(my present canter has a tipper and its so nice to be able to level the bed with the press of a button....makes others in hilly campsites really jealous!!! LOL)
real exited to be building something new rather than patching up old body...
will get some pics up soon...
 

Mickldo

Adventurer
Just pulled the back off my ex-noosa bus canter....
too rusty!!!seems like they used acidic sealant throughout and this has caused more probs than just moisture....
I'm starting a complete re-build after rust proofing chassis...
I'm planning on using Aluminum throughout, both frame and sheeting...
any good advice?...
also, mounting the body to the frame looks like a much discussed issue.... - I was thinking of installing a tipper frame and building off that...
(my present canter has a tipper and its so nice to be able to level the bed with the press of a button....makes others in hilly campsites really jealous!!! LOL)
real exited to be building something new rather than patching up old body...
will get some pics up soon...

I build aluminium bodies and trailers at work (see links in sig line). If you need advice on techniques PM me.

I have posted in the past on how we do our trailers. IIRC it was the Nida-Core thread.

I also posted a link in the FG frame thread with the Aussie Heavy Vehicle Code of Practice. There is a heap of good info in there on body mountings.

At work I also have a copy of the 2007 Isuzu Body Builders Manual which has a few good recommendations in it too.
 

BillyDread

New member
Been real busy last few months...

Camper nearly built...and....

truck chassis and cab painted....

so will be going back together shortly...

a few pics...

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BillyDread

New member
a few specs...

4600mm long, 2300 wide, 2200 overall height ( 2050mmm floor to ceiling
)

chassis built from 100x50x6 mm alli, rest built from 50x50x3, and framed in with 25x25x3 and 25x50x3 (walls and roof are 50mm thick)

roof sheeted with 2.5mm checher plate, walls 1.6 and floor 3mm flat plate...

will post about solar set up, water etc soon...:Wow1:
 

Amesz00

Adventurer
roof sheeted with 2.5mm checher plate, walls 1.6 and floor 3mm flat plate...

very nice build you got going there mate.
if i may offer an opinion, i would think you dont really need 2.5 on the roof, usually 2.0 is ok (not very important though), but mainly, if you intend on driving through bush tracks and the like (like most of us do), then you'll probly want at least 2.0 on the sides, and preferably at least 2.0 or 2.5 on the big front bit above the cab. these really take a bashing on bush tracks.

cant wait to see the finished thing mate!
 

BillyDread

New member
Stress panels???

sheeting just about to begin,

finished doors and other openings - 9 in all...18 locks, all keyed alike....35 spare keys...hehehe

full dust sealed doors and waterproof plastic hinge (expensive) used throughout...

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