OldSven's 4Runner

[OldSven]

A side not that may help, disconnect the - terminal for 5 minutes to reset the computer. You should do this any time you change anything so it can learn the setting so to speak. I wonder why your mileage is so bad, I'm at 16 flat armored, geared, and running the 295's. The SC with stock setup should be netting you closer to 20 from my research.

Aaron

You mean the actuall battery terminal, or the efi fuse? We did the efi fuse for 10min when we were doing the last tune. I keep thinking there is something I am missing as to why the mpg's suck so bad but no codes are being thrown, no fuel leaks, runs very strong. I will keep looking into it and see but I wonder if the fuel up here in the NW is mixed worse for winter than other places... The other thing is that it is very hilly around here so that can be part of it. Having to go wheeling up the pass is climbing 3000ft to get to the snow.

 

[xcmountain80]

It's unfortunate a Mr. Wizard kit doesn't exist (or does there) that let's you take a sample from the pump either before or after your filled to determine the percentage of fuel or gasoline vs. the BS additives. Of course this kit would need to be inexpensive. The hills could very well play a role but should average out I would think, I know in the blue ridge area I go about 45 mph climbing at best and about that coming down and it evens out (I think). I'll keep thinking but those number I would get from the folks at elevation were always higher than those who weren't when re SC was concerned. Your truck couldn't weigh more than a stock one with a bunch of fat people in it so I'm not seeing the issue.

A

 

[OldSven]

It's unfortunate a Mr. Wizard kit doesn't exist (or does there) that let's you take a sample from the pump either before or after your filled to determine the percentage of fuel or gasoline vs. the BS additives. Of course this kit would need to be inexpensive. The hills could very well play a role but should average out I would think, I know in the blue ridge area I go about 45 mph climbing at best and about that coming down and it evens out (I think). I'll keep thinking but those number I would get from the folks at elevation were always higher than those who weren't when re SC was concerned. Your truck couldn't weigh more than a stock one with a bunch of fat people in it so I'm not seeing the issue.

A

Last I weighed it at the dump it was 4880lbs minus me, so that is about
1000lbs over stock from what I have found. I did some more reading on this issue and the one thing I will try and do this week is swing by toyota and have them hook up the scanner and see if my o2 sensors are toast. Seems like when they have a bunch of miles on them they won't throw a code but will be real lazy in telling the computer to shut off fuel so that could be where my fuel is going out the window.

 

[OldSven]

Did some more research and found that it is looking more like the issue might be a bad o2 sensor. They apparently should be replaced every 75k to obtain optimum fuel economy but they can start going bad and messing with fuel economy without throwing a code. My buddy that helps me with tuning the S/C is going to help me with testing both on the laptop with the oBd11 scanner and with a volt meter test the sensor and see if it is bad, if so that should be the extra few mpg's that I can't seem to find. To bad they are about $131 for a sensor!

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/4Runner/tech/O2_Sensor/

 

[xcmountain80]

Yes the battery terminal and not the fuse. An u2 simulator might be a good choice I the rear 02 is dead and can be purchased from URD $60 ish. O2 sensors set codes of when they become less than 95 percent efficient or something like that. New O2 can also be purchased from URD the rotifer prefer the OE to any other.

A

 

[farrdg]

While your checking the O2 sensors, check the exhaust output as well. Failed sensors can cause the cat to fail (plug up) resulting in poor performance and decreased MPG's as well. My old L/R Discovery (pig ) did that. 4 failed sensors, plugged cat, no codes. Gave me a great excuse to build a free flow system from the cats back.
:coffeedrink:

 

[OldSven]

While your checking the O2 sensors, check the exhaust output as well. Failed sensors can cause the cat to fail (plug up) resulting in poor performance and decreased MPG's as well. My old L/R Discovery (pig ) did that. 4 failed sensors, plugged cat, no codes. Gave me a great excuse to build a free flow system from the cats back.
:coffeedrink:

You buy chance know how to test those sensors? I'm going to check out the o2 sensor today but beings that the runner is at 182k the cat could be a little stuffy from running supercharged it's whole life with no 7th injector or tuning until I bought it.

 

[farrdg]

Give this link a try. Explains it pretty good. My friend owns a shop here, so he did the test and built a new stainless exhaust that was free flow from the cat all the way back. Did a great job, with a lot of custom bending for greater clearance on the old rover as well. I'll do the same thing to my Taco when its time. Good luck with this, I'll be interested to hear what you find.

http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/O2_Sensor.html

To check the CAT, just step on it and it should meow! All kidding aside, just put your hand up to the tail pipe and it should have a nice strong flow, if its weak the cat is probably plugged and ready for replacement. Good time to get a free flow cat, free flow muffler and new sensors. A good muffler shop can make a nice one for half the cost of a bolt on system.

 

[OldSven]

Finally got around to mounting my trailer plug after moving the tire down below. Drilled a 1 7/8" hole in the front and a about a 1/2" hole in the back, then silaconed everything so no leaky...

 

[Go4Lo]

So I have been pondering some factory 16" steelies and ditching the 5 star's and think that is the route I'm going to take. I weighed them on the scale (bathroom scale) and the two setup's the steel version was only about 5lbs more than the alloy's. I thought it would be a lot more but I can live with 5lbs extra, the whole combo was 78lbs with tire. This way I can sell off the 33x10.5's from the trailer and match all 7 wheels up. Now to find some people to trade me some spares...

The 16 hole steelies look great! What is the back spacing on those? Any need for a wheel spacer with the 265s or 255s?

 

[OldSven]

The 16 hole steelies look great! What is the back spacing on those? Any need for a wheel spacer with the 265s or 255s?

I'm still running the 5 stars, but I think the steelies are close to the same around 4-4.25"bs. With 265's and 255's there is no need for any wheel spacers, I'm running the spidertrax 1.25" hub centric spacers just for a wider stance.

 

[Go4Lo]

I'm still running the 5 stars, but I think the steelies are close to the same around 4-4.25"bs. With 265's and 255's there is no need for any wheel spacers, I'm running the spidertrax 1.25" hub centric spacers just for a wider stance.

Good deal..thanks. I assume if one wanted to run a set of the steel wheels then a trip to a local junk yard for Tacoma, Tundra, 4runner, etc...spare wheels would be in order? Are all the late model 16 hole, 6 on 5.5 steel wheels the same?

A quick google search turns up a few places that sell the steel wheels but the best deal I can find on the steelies is ~$55 a wheel from Rock Auto. Any other insight or suggestions?

 

[OldSven]

Good deal..thanks. I assume if one wanted to run a set of the steel wheels then a trip to a local junk yard for Tacoma, Tundra, 4runner, etc...spare wheels would be in order? Are all the late model 16 hole, 6 on 5.5 steel wheels the same?

A quick google search turns up a few places that sell the steel wheels but the best deal I can find on the steelies is ~$55 a wheel from Rock Auto. Any other insight or suggestions?

I found them up here at a Nix99, a local Toyota junk yard that had them for $60 per wheel. The Tacoma and Tundra's were a 16 hole but the 4runner's are an 18 hole. Pretty much the same wheel just smaller and more holes. The steel wheels are also a 7" where as the alloy's are 7.5" wide, I think on a 255 or 265 the 7" look better they suck the sidewalls in more.

 

[Go4Lo]

I found them up here at a Nix99, a local Toyota junk yard that had them for $60 per wheel. The Tacoma and Tundra's were a 16 hole but the 4runner's are an 18 hole. Pretty much the same wheel just smaller and more holes. The steel wheels are also a 7" where as the alloy's are 7.5" wide, I think on a 255 or 265 the 7" look better they suck the sidewalls in more.

Excellent info. Thanks for the help, I'm going to try to start looking for set this weekend. Sorry to hijack your build thread. :sombrero:

 

[Willman]

Keep your five stars.....

It might take a lot of wheel weights to get those to balance.....



:ylsmoke: