Overland Journal: Discovery I, 5-speed

[pnorvell]

Those will rust everywhere they get scratched by rocks. That appears to be a zinc dichromate coating, which is on OK rust prevention, but it will still get removed by heavy rock contact.

I have these same ones, and like them, but they're not impervious to rust.

Got ya :elkgrin:!! I know I've hit mine a few times but they looks the same as when I got them! I bought them used from an awesome guy in CO and he used them I think a year before I got them. Even still, no rust. Like I said, I really like them!

Peter

 

[Antichrist]

x3 on the pipe caps (what a lot of people call sewer caps). You'll need to modify your panhard rod, but that's not a big deal.

 

[Abel Villesca]

Got ya :elkgrin:!! I know I've hit mine a few times but they looks the same as when I got them! I bought them used from an awesome guy in CO and he used them I think a year before I got them. Even still, no rust. Like I said, I really like them!

Peter

Same here. Absolutely no rust despite hits and scratches to the finish. :sombrero:

 

[pnorvell]

x3 on the pipe caps (what a lot of people call sewer caps). You'll need to modify your panhard rod, but that's not a big deal.

Have a picture of this set up? I always hear it mentioned.

 

[gjackson]

Have a picture of this set up? I always hear it mentioned.

This is from the Rovertracks site:

And the info here:
http://www.rovertracks.com/products/accessories.html

cheers

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Same here. Absolutely no rust despite hits and scratches to the finish. :sombrero:

I do find that surprising. Maybe haven't scratched them deep enough, maybe it's not ZDC, but then I have no idea what it would be.

I wonder if the solution to the "mud getting" trapped problem could be the same as we do for enduro sump guards. Put some closed cell foam between the skid and the case. It won't let mud build up.

The thing I like about the QT diff guards is the fact they are a skidplate, helping to slip over things easier.

 

[michaelgroves]

Same here. Absolutely no rust despite hits and scratches to the finish. :sombrero:

If I'm not mistaken, the zinc acts as a sacrificial anode, so it protects against corrosion even if it's scratched through to the underlying metal.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

That's a good point. Maybe it's salt which makes the difference. I just saw a lot of corrosion testing with ZDC plated bolts, and they still rust. But that's under heavy attack from salt spray. Also on my own cars up here, I know they still rust, due to the salt. In fact, I think my rear diff guard may already have some rust on it, after only one winter.

 

[Hank]

I've never seen a QT guard rust. Ever.

With that said, I hate that design. Why do you need to protect the bottom of the housing? That area is super thick. I've never seen a hole rubbed through the bottom of the housing. I've never seen the bottom of the housing peeled open from hits. This is not a problem area so why protect it? Why give up that ground clearance?

The area that needs protection is the diff pan. That's thin material. If this area is not protected, it will haunt you some day. Diff guards should be one of the very first mods, IMO.

The sewer cap is the way to go. But I don't like it. In fact, I hate it. It makes the most sense out of all the options currently available, but I hate it.

A lot of people prefer the bolt on guards. I hate those, too. They must be retained with a strap because at some point they will fall off and you'll loose them. They've been dubbed "the cow bell" because when they do fall off and are hanging from their retaining strap, they ring like a cow bell as they swing back-and-forth and hit everything. I think MJ Lee made the desirable bolt-on guard - not sure it they're still around.

I like the weld on types. I have the RTE's. They were installed on one of my older trucks for about 5 years, and were recently removed and placed on my new truck. There were no rusting issues of either the diff pan or the diff guard. They will, however, trap some mud and debris. It takes a power-washer to get it all out at times.

As for rusting when using the RTE guards, you've got to think about when you fill the diff with oil. Maybe others have been able to fill their diffs without spillage, but I'm not that good. I always leak a little oil down the diff which gets trapped between the guard and diff pan. If that does not counteract rust, I don't know what will.

Who ever suggested placing foam between the diff and the diff guard......that's a horrible idea. That would allow water and moisture to be trapped. Not only would this promote rusting, it could also freeze, expand, and ultimately pink-fluffy-bunny stuff up.

 

[muskyman]

x3 on the pipe caps (what a lot of people call sewer caps). You'll need to modify your panhard rod, but that's not a big deal.

Pretty sure keith cuts them down enough for a stock Panhard now.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Why do you need to protect the bottom of the housing?

You don't. I agree, it's thick enough. But the reason I like the design is because it acts like more of a slider. It helps to keep momentum because rocks don't have any edges to catch on. You only lose 1/4" of clearance, and then the whole thing can slide off rocks easily. Since I don't have huge tires, and tend to drive more carefully, I'd rather have a slider under there than a battering ram.

But, it also means that with the newfound confidence, you'll now beat the crap out of the track rod, which needs to be beefed up.

I did say closed cell foam. It won't trap water nearly as much. Anyway, it was just a suggestion, because that's what the bike guys do and it doesn't lead to rust at all. It's much better than collecting mud down there, which will lead to rust.

 

[gjackson]

I have the SG front diff guard on the 110. Not a big fan, but it does do the job. It is bolt on, but I added some 1" welds to keep it in place. As has been mentioned, the bolt on ones will eventually come off.

As far as rust goes, never even been close to a problem. With a 300tdi, the oil filter is directly above the diff, and it is impossible to do an oil change without giving the whole diff a good greasing.

cheers

 

[muskyman]

my stock rear diff cover rusted through from the combination of a bolt on cover, debris and the huge amounts of salt they use on the roads here in chicago.

the only issue with a sewer cap is the up front fabrication. You need to be willing to take the time to set them up right from the get go and that does take some time and fabrication skills. The result is the best diff protection out there.

Thinking of the QT as a diff slider is really going down the wrong road. that rock you are sliding over should be under your right tire or left of the diff. Thats why the diffs are both off set to the right. Once you start sliding your diffs over rocks you face the fact that at some point you will end up stopping and sliding back and now that rock is on the rear u-joint or driveshaft.

keep your tires on the high spots accept the off camber position it puts you in and protect your drivetrain from damage...words to live by

 

[pnorvell]

Why give up that ground clearance?

All 1/4", if that... I see that as a far fetched issue. I personally think it's a great idea, if anything, at least it helps for resale. Keeping those scrapes at bay keeps away the rust as well. Like some have said they are there for peace of mind, not as a battering ram. Best of luck choosing Scott.

Peter

 

[Antichrist]

If I'm not mistaken, the zinc acts as a sacrificial anode, so it protects against corrosion even if it's scratched through to the underlying metal.

When it's applied by galvanizing it does. Never heard of it doing it when applied as zinc chromate. Not to say it doesn't though.