Overland Journal: Discovery I, 5-speed

[Scott Brady]

New factory mud flaps - oooooooooh.

I made good progress, but it looks like there is no way to finish the Disco completely before I leave for the Mongolia trip. It will be waiting for when I get back

 

[Antichrist]

I've found that mud flaps don't last very long when off-roading. The get ripped off.
They'd probably last longer if they could fully swing up out of the way (like I used to modify them for heavy off-road trucks) rather than just fold up like they do with the stock mounting.
If I can find a set for a decent price (or free if anyone has a set they don't want) maybe I'll try it.

 

[SeaRubi]

I was curious on the slipper pad - does Bill recommend leaving the pad backed off for highway and pavement driving, and then torquing it down for difficult sections of trail? It seems like the wear on the brass pad is kind of unnecessary for 99% of the time? also, is the boss in the diff threaded, letting the silver nut on there serve as a lock nut, or is it relying on thread tension from the bolt to stay snugged up?

looking great, as usual. :beer:

 

[Scott Brady]

I've found that mud flaps don't last very long when off-roading. The get ripped off.

I agree. I rarely, if ever run mud flaps.

I like the Disco factory mud flaps for some odd reason. Maybe it is the little mountain graphic. . .

 

[stolenheron]

I've found that mud flaps don't last very long when off-roading. The get ripped off.

i remounted my factory D2 rear mudflaps higher to start where my RTE bumper began rather than so low like the factory mounting point. i was skeptical that they would last through anything remotely difficult, but they made it through Hidden Falls. sliders, RTE rear bumper, both diff guards took hits that day, even broke both motor mounts, but somehow they survived.

i guess i got lucky. i will remove them permanently once one gets ripped off, i just figured i'd try to keep them as long as they lasted.

oh and dont take this on me being "pro-mud flap for offroad vehicles". i'm just saying i figured i'd use mine for as long as i could to prevent part of my RTE's notorious powdercoating from chipping. so far its worked well, once gone they will be gone for good.

and yeah, the "flappy" mud flaps vs the stiff ones are MUCH better.

 

[muskyman]

I was curious on the slipper pad - does Bill recommend leaving the pad backed off for highway and pavement driving, and then torquing it down for difficult sections of trail? It seems like the wear on the brass pad is kind of unnecessary for 99% of the time? also, is the boss in the diff threaded, letting the silver nut on there serve as a lock nut, or is it relying on thread tension from the bolt to stay snugged up?

looking great, as usual. :beer:

this has been done since the early 1950's on ford 9" diffs. setting the tension and running it like that is not a issue. think of like a brass bearing running on a hard crank shaft...do you have to back off your bearings on the highway?

 

[benlittle]

Auto zone sells those same mud flaps for like $15 bucks.

 

[Adrift]

Auto zone sells those same mud flaps for like $15 bucks.

I'm gonna have to look into this....

 

[R_Lefebvre]

I've found that mud flaps don't last very long when off-roading. The get ripped off.
They'd probably last longer if they could fully swing up out of the way (like I used to modify them for heavy off-road trucks) rather than just fold up like they do with the stock mounting.
If I can find a set for a decent price (or free if anyone has a set they don't want) maybe I'll try it.

You could do what I did. Made a quick removal mount. Each mudflap is held on with 2 lynch pins. They pop off in seconds. I went with mudflaps mainly because I do so much towing, and lots of gravel roads at speed.

I was curious on the slipper pad - does Bill recommend leaving the pad backed off for highway and pavement driving, and then torquing it down for difficult sections of trail? It seems like the wear on the brass pad is kind of unnecessary for 99% of the time? also, is the boss in the diff threaded, letting the silver nut on there serve as a lock nut, or is it relying on thread tension from the bolt to stay snugged up?

Basically what will happen is the brass will very quickly wear so that it is NOT making contact under normal conditions. It will wear a small clearance so that it's like it wasn't there. But, when the axle is really loaded up, and things start to flex, the pad will stop the internals from flexing even more.

 

[revor]

My front ones are still on, you can see them there just behind the tire.

 

[UnfrozenCaveman]

My front ones are still on, you can see them there just behind the tire.

Hey, me too!

The rears however...not so much :sombrero:

 

[Viggen]

With all this electrical accessories, what output alternator are you running?

 

[Scott Brady]

It is just the stock alternator (I carry a spare). The only real draw while driving is the fridge. The HIDs are low draw. The stock alternator should be fine, and has already performed well with the fridge, etc. (I just ran the fridge to the factory cig lighter.

I think it will be ok, but can run a test on all the loads to be sure. That would probably be worth doing

 

[SeaRubi]

It is just the stock alternator (I carry a spare). The only real draw while driving is the fridge. The HIDs are low draw. The stock alternator should be fine, and has already performed well with the fridge, etc. (I just ran the fridge to the factory cig lighter.

I think it will be ok, but can run a test on all the loads to be sure. That would probably be worth doing

a buddy of mine has had great luck with a WranglerNW replacement on a heavily accessorized rangie, fwiw.

http://tinyurl.com/26ozgez
cheers
-ike

 

[Green96D1]

Out with the old:

In with the new: I am not sure if many of you know this, but Adventure Trailers now does complete vehicle modifications. My schedule was getting tight for Mongolia, so the boys at AT installed the diffs. We also had some help from a LR guru (who works at RoverTechs in Scottsdale) Steven. Everyone did a great job, and I learned a lot. Mostly how easy LRs are to work on, once you know a few tricks.

Come to find out, the rear had just been serviced (before I bought the truck), and the bearings and seals all looked great.

We spent a lot of time cleaning the housing and gasket surface. Really Right Stuff put is all back together

The new diffs, from Bill at Great Basin. I have had these for months, and just now was able to install them. The pattern looked good and the 3.90 gears are actually stronger than stock (bigger pinion, etc.).

They use a bronze pad that runs tight against the ring and helps protect it from deflection.

Expedition Exchange sells a set of high-quality and longer brake lines. These lines also expand less under braking pressure. We installed these front and rear, along with all new LR Genuine pads.

Installing the front diff. Particular care is required with the arb air line as you slide the third member into the housing.

Wow Scott you have been busy. looking good :victory: