Overland Journal Project Land Rover Discovery 4 (LR4)

mcieplinski

Adventurer
Based on my expectation of vehicle performance, I feel the 18" wheel is the most important modification we have performed to the Land Rover. This is primarily because of the durability of a proper LT tire. We installed a 265/70 R18 Falken AT. This tire is particularly durable, yet still smooth running on the highway.

To install the 18" factory LR3 wheels, all that is required is the 30mm spacers.

The tires I installed are at the limits of size, being essentially 33" diameter. This has required additional trimming and adjustments to the bumpers, fender liner, etc. These tires also eliminate the possibility of chains, unless you run in off-road height.

Realistically, a 265/65 R18 is a better choice. This vehicle is intended for a particular purpose, which does not include more domestic duties.

I think the Compomotive wheels are a good choice as well.

Hi Scott - thanks for the reply. I am about to pull the trigger on the 18in but was wondering whether with a 265 you can still use access height setting without any rubbing (I have a very low access garage and with a baja rack I need to use access height) Thanks a lot!
 
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Mack73

Adventurer
Hi Scott - thanks for the reply. I am about to pull the trigger on the 18in but was wondering whether with a 265 you can still use access height setting without any rubbing (I have a very low access garage and with a baja rack I need to use access height) Thanks a lot!

When I ran the 265/65 at factory height. In access mode they only rubbed a little when turning tight. But if you don't turn that far it won't rub at all.
 

Luis

New member
Thanks Scott Brady for this chat, it's been really helpful and amusing to follow it... that's exactly what I want to know about a Discovery. You broke some paradigms of that car and made me feel better with it :wings:

19" cooper ltzs? do tell I can't find them and just checked yesterday, 20s yes but 19s no

I drive on them for the last 2000 miles :safari-rig:

IMG_2010.jpg

:archaeolo but, without a doubt, they lack the accurate quantity of side rubber :( it's a real shame. there's no way to use on rock crawling without hurting them... I can tell :mad:
 
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draaronr

Adventurer
Thanks Scott Brady for this chat, it's been really helpful and amusing to follow it... that's exactly what I want to know about a Discovery. You broke some paradigms of that car and made me feel better with it :wings:



I drive on them for the last 2000 miles :safari-rig:

View attachment 190854

:archaeolo but, without a doubt, they lack the accurate quantity of side rubber :( it's a real shame. there's no way to use on rock crawling without hurting them... I can tell :mad:

Bought a set that day. They were for the g55 :)
 

Luis

New member
Excellent, enjoy them! although I'm very happy with them, they're too low profile. I think it´s better to use them at 35 or more psi... :av-7:
 

upperporcupine

ColoRover
I have read through this thread and have thoroughly enjoyed it. Nice work Scott. I do have a few questions.

1. Why did you combine Johnson Rods and II-D tool instead of just using the tool to alter the lift? Wouldn't the tool do the same without the addition of rods?
2. What was the final ride height over stock configurations that you had the vehicle aligned for?
3. In the first picture you posted of your project Lr4, what height mode was it in?
4. With an 05 lr3, my understanding is that you can go to an OEM 18" wheel without altering the brakes in any way? Is this true for both the V6 and V8?


If the answers are in the thread and I missed them, I apologize in advance.

Jamie
 
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t42beal13t

Adventurer
#1 The Johnson rods give you ~2.5 inches more easily than the tool. IMO it's easier to pop the new rods on than play with the #s on the tool.

#2 I got mine aligned in the "factory ride height" with Johnson rods installed. No computer height adjustments done.

#4 The V6 will accommodate 17" wheels and the V8 requires 18" wheels without modification.
 

Eniam17

Adventurer
#1 The Johnson rods give you ~2.5 inches more easily than the tool. IMO it's easier to pop the new rods on than play with the #s on the tool.

Why would it be easier to install/remove the height sensor rods instead of plugging the tool in and pressing a few buttons? IID tool lets you save 3 (I think) different settings anyway.

My understanding of why they used rods on this project was due to running 33" tires there wouldn't be a time when they wanted anything less than the 2.5" of lift the rods give. If you are someone running smaller tires and do more "daily driving' the IID tool could be a better alternative than rods.
 

t42beal13t

Adventurer
You're probably right. I have the GAP tool so I don't want to mess with 1mm adjustments, plus I'm used to changing springs, etc to achieve lift so the rods were more old school, involving fewer 1s and 0s. I have 33s on mine so the Johnson rods were a necessity.
 

Mack73

Adventurer
A more detailed answer on #1.

It is possible the IIDTool can't give you the same height lift as rods - here's why.

The IIDTool (or others) are letting you play with the individual adjustment values for each height sensor. Each height sensor value will be a little bit different - so to level the car, there is a set value range for each sensor (up to 250). You cannot exceed 250 or it will throw a fault. Therefore the maximum lift you can get is the difference between highest value height sensor and 250. If you have a height sensor at 210, you can go up 40 points (which are almost equal to mm). But if for some reason you have a sensor with a much height reading like 230, you can only go up 20 points and you won't achieve a good amount of lift.

Rods don't have this same disadvantage as you are physically making the reading lower for the height sensor. For the majority of users the IIDTool gives a good amount of lift, but on some vehicles it might not get you as high as you want.
 

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